Body fillers?
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BeepBeepRR
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slimt
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Nope. I would not use dynaglass or duroglass for anything. It absorbs moisture just like bondo And at the end of the day. You still have to use filler over the kitty hair. Or duroglass. You will find that you will have less problems with primer sticking to filler. if the metal work is done right. You should not have to use that much filler.
I have to ask if you epoxy primer the car first then do the body work. Do you spray a sealer on it before you do the top coat.so the moisture if any would be trapped in the filler or would it work it's way into the topcoat or would it go thru the epoxy and work on the inner panel.
What do you for top/skim coat?
We use a short strand fiberglass {Rage} over new welds just in case there is a pin hole missed.
99% of that ends up back on the floor.
Epoxy prime before fillers............ the debate goes on lol. Most all fillers are direct to metal app. To me the advantage of a epoxy primer coat before body work is the control of flash rust on a bare panel or body.
I want at least a 80 grit surface prep before a filler coat. Run 80 grit on a epoxy prime panel or even 180 and see how much primer is left.
Your still direct to metal with your filler.
no do not seal water in anything with anything. even a wet sanded car needs to set and dry out, all moisture needs to be out of the primer. or its coming out later.
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Metal finish as best you can then Evercoat glazing putty.
If you need to go to mud then use Evercoat Rage Ultra.
If you need to go to mud then use Evercoat Rage Ultra.
Like runner 68 posted ^^^^ also look over a primed area after dry for pin holes at the areas you have filler.
you will have pin holes that will need a light light skim of glazing putty then blocked again.
you will have pin holes that will need a light light skim of glazing putty then blocked again.
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BeepBeepRR
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Yea but he helps to understand how body work is done. You have to over look the cussing.
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That dude has some good advice on some things but generally is a hack IMHO.
I read on the subject of pinholes to "splash a little acetone in the mix to prevent the holes."
Is there any easy to sand spot putty out there? I used that 3M stuff years ago and it was hard to sand. Most of what I'm filling is around the spot weld areas a very thin coat will work. The bigger fill is in the quarter extension.
slimt
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pin holes are due from applying the product on thick. Trapping air bubbles. If you apply any type of filler it should be a tight pass accross the area your filling. To press the filler into any areas that would create a air pocket. Then apply even amounts just to fix the area. , make sure your filler is smooth on the last pass. I let it dry hard. Sanding it sooner will create tearing and pin holes. Not only that. The thicker you apply the filler , the more uneven it cures. You will trap air pockets. There for pin holes. You wash the filler with chemicals. You will create pin holes. Not only that it will absorb all the thinners like a sponge and probably ruin the filler. you wipe with wax and grease or water. , good like on getting it dryied out.
I could keep going. But you might get bored
Do not mix anything into the filler. The spot putty we use for pin holes or real light coats is uphol dolphin, that or a product called feather fill. Both are very easy to work with and sand.
I will be honest, Im just a 40 hr per week bodyman and I use stud guns & hammers , dollies & filler sometimes a lot of it.
Im not chip fooseball and I dont have the time to massage welded in patchs & dents to the point were no filler is needed.
We only do 1 or 2 old cars per year the rest ls late model work
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The 3M stuff is lacquer based and shrinks. Use a 2 part poly. Sands easy and has a long working time.
I use 3M Platimum Plus Finishing Glaze Part # 31180 Is two part poly and really easy to mix and use. Not too expensive!
In my younger years I too used the old red spot putty, and what a pain to sand. The two part above sands and feathers very easy IMHO and as Runner 68 stated, it has a long working time as long as you don't dump in too much hardner
In my younger years I too used the old red spot putty, and what a pain to sand. The two part above sands and feathers very easy IMHO and as Runner 68 stated, it has a long working time as long as you don't dump in too much hardner
JimKueneman
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Hi Barry, I am a proponent of epoxy primer to make a tough skin to seal the moisture aways from the metal then filler.... I use 3M Platinum filler and glaze. I think it sands well.
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