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Best way to install motor & transmission

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Bold & Old

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Experience needed....

I am trying to figure out the best way to install my hemi engine and 4spd. I have a photo here I took off the web for my demonstration purposes. Different way to install the engine and trans. The traditional way is lowering both in to the engine bay from the top.

My question is once the car is painted and all prettied up and ready for the motor. Would it be easier to install the engine...... from the bottom with K member attached as the picture illustrates or the traditional way?

The body does not have the original Hemi K member in it now. I have the Hemi K member ready to install by its self or with the motor and K member together with wheel assemblies shown in the picture.

Thank in advance... Mike

tubes.jpg
 
From bottom by far.
That elephant is SO BIG it doesn’t go in very easy from top especially tilted with the trans on the back of it.

I did it once from top, and won’t do it again.

this is with everything all fresh and nice, wanting to keep in nice not beating anything up.

you need to watch the pass side valve cover to frame, and shock tower. I heard the factory had a shield they laid over to not dent/scratch the pass valve cover.
 
Last edited:
I agree with @R413 Definitely from the bottom. If you try to put a Hemi with the trans attached into a freshly painted engine compartment, you're asking for trouble. Better have some touch-up paint available.
 
Removing the original K member (torsion bars) is this difficult... with front wheels attached?
Mike
 
Please notice @dadsbee has that engine FULLY ASSEMBLED!

I don’t understand installing partially assembled engines. Why lean over the fender if you don’t need to?
 
Take the tires off, but leave the hub assemblies attached. Disconnect the torsion bars, upper ball joint and K frame bolts. Lower slowly to ensure that you have all of the hoses and wires disconnected. Don't forget the rear crossmember if leaving the trans attached.
Install in reverse.
 
Bold & Old said:
I plan on having two lifting tables side by side with front drive train on them and lowering the body to the engine... approach.... different than your approach some what..... but I think it will do the trick too.

I appreciate your experience.... :>)
Click to expand...
I can guarantee you one thing, if you follow Wayne's advice, you won't go wrong.
 
R413 said:
Please notice @dadsbee has that engine FULLY ASSEMBLED!

I don’t understand installing partially assembled engines. Why lean over the fender if you don’t need to?
Click to expand...


originally I am a Chevy man..... You can not do that with a Chevy.
 
Ironbuilt said:
Take the tires off, but leave the hub assemblies attached. Disconnect the torsion bars, upper ball joint and K frame bolts. Lower slowly to ensure that you have all of the hoses and wires disconnected. Don't forget the rear crossmember if leaving the trans attached.
Install in reverse.
Click to expand...
There is no motor or trans in the car now.
 
Easy deal then. As Ironbuilt noted, disconnect the upper control arms from the steering knuckle. This allows the lower arm to drop fully. Back the torsion bar adjusters off completely and pull the torsion bars, disconnect the steering column coupler, brake flex lines at frame couplings and and then drop the K frame assembly by removing the 4 bolts.
 
I will always go in from the bottom.

upload_2020-2-13_16-7-28.png


Took the engine & trans out through the top a few years before this, and nearly lost a couple of berries. :eek:
 
Ironbuilt said:
Hey Roger, what is on the end of that cherry picker and attached to car?
Click to expand...
That's a simple U shaped bar I had made up - it bolts to the bumper threads. Strong enough to lift the body minus engine & trans. It's as simple as lowering the car onto the engine dolly, and insert the K Frame bolts. Took me half an hour to bolt it back together. :)

And before some clever dickie asks....for the other 25 minutes, I was admiring how clean the car was. :D
 
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