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Quick question...Line lock, Drag Radials w/Tread voids, manual trans, what gear to do burnout in?

Let the clutch out with my heel as I lift, point toes toward right and apply brake with the tip of my left foot. Applying gas with right foot. Takes a little getting used to. Some cars are easier that others. (Obviously, a line lock simplifys things also), but my street cars don't have a line lock.
 
biomedtechguy said:
Wow...
Ya see!! This is why I ask what may seem to be "newbie" questions!
I never would have guessed initiating a burnout in 3rd gear!!
Ok, well I'll say I'm good for trying at least 2nd gear now to get a feel for it, and maybe 3rd gear in my Roadrunner.
PLEASE, more replies!!
I have done auto trans "power brake" burnouts more times (and places) than I care to admit.
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Tire has to be WET
 
I also go around the water box and back into the water. The front tires will drag way to much water into your path and screw everything up if you drive straight through with wide tires on the front.

My mate always drove through the water slowly with street radials on the front around 6" wide with no slip or any issues in the '69RR with the mild 440 and he did slow burnouts with no instant wheel speed to start, so every chance of pushing the front along.
There is no way I can see you stalling in the box in 3rd, 4000>5000? and ease it out fast and you should be fine, just keep it going at a steady rpm once spinning, most want to keep pushing the pedal and its easy to over rev, no need, just keep it steady, throttle control is just something you'll have to get used to perhaps for the first few times in the box.
 
#1 IMO if it has reg. treaded street tires on the front
go around the water box (when ever feasible)
so you don't drag water to the starting line
back into the water box, get them wet
then move to the forward extreme of the water spot

#2 then;
pump the brakes up to pressure, get the front locked with the line lock
let off the brake peddle, engage the trans in the gear you think or works best
you know your car best, then let em' rip, it's a little trial & error
different rubber compounds & different styles, require different type burnouts

disclaimer;
I also suggest to not do the burnout in the middle of the box, in the puddle
it will sling excessive water into the wheel wells & could drip down onto
or in-front of the rear tires, won't be good either way
IMO it's just a good precaution/practice to take, it won't hurt

just simple logic & experience

(dedicated drag car like a couple of the guys here have
& they usually have speed rated front runners style tires,
low resistance rolling etc. & with very little tread or depth to the tread,
no big deal to drive thru the water, pull out of it & start the burn out,
BUT; it's not a street treaded tire, that holds a shitload of water)

I can't remember if you have a Tremec or (IIRC) a Passon 5 speed

a Passon 855 5 speed has a (direct replacement for 833)
2.56:1 1st, 1.92:1 2nd, 1.40:1 3rd, 1:1 4th & 0.070:1 5th O/D gear
if I read & remember correctly

with the tires wet,
it should be no issues getting them to start spinning
even with a stock-ish 440-6bbl

with a 541cid beast, you plan on having it should be a walk in the park

2nd gear will work too,
just don't let it get away from you,
you don't have to spin it to the moon in a burnout
or bang it off the rev-limiter either
that may be a crowd pleaser but your engine builder will hate it
& then once the smoke crosses the tire surface, you can "usually"
just walk it forward, then good to go...

of course unless;
you find the need to get more heat into the tires
which is a slippery slope when it comes to drag slicks
or how tracks are prepped can affect it too
or especially drag radials you get too hot 'sometimes'
is as bad as not cleaned or cold tires in many cases
the rubber balls up when too hot & it works against you

disclosure;
not all cars, tries/slicks or drag radials or burnouts are equal
a 12 sec. street/strip car, with 450-ish crank HP
with shitty low profile of any make Drag radial with 'little to no sidewalls'
vs
a 8-9-10 second car with 700-900 crank hp
running real bias drag slicks 29" & up, or real radial race slicks
will be different too

that's my experience & my opinions, take it or leave it
find out what works for your specific car, not by committee
 
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The 2 tracks I frequent are different level of slickness out of the box.
One track has a really slippery blacktop out of the box. 3rd gear no problem. When the tires are wet, it is like ice.
The other track has concrete, I prefer to just hang in second gear and let it eat a few seconds.
Either track has a long enough distance to make water from the front tires a non issue. Make sure you turn the A/c off though.:poke:
 
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Go for a moderate launch with those DRs anyhow, if you try to lean on them you are just going to waste passes. I could get mine to dead hook up to around a 3000 rpm launch, then they would just blow off.
I really tried to make them work,my reasoning was, if an auto car could launch fast, a good clutch letter-outer could too,I am not that guy. Bias plies for the win.
 
Budnicks made a very good point, you want to move most of the way out of the water before starting the burnout. A good track crew will move you to the front edge after you have moved slowly through the puddle. With a full depth street front tire, going around the water & backing in makes sense, if the starting line crew lets you do that. I always do at least 1 "chirpy" after coming out of the burnout just to be sure the rear tires are dry. It also will tend to dry the fronts a bit.
 
66Satellite47 said:
Budnicks made a very good point, you want to move most of the way out of the water before starting the burnout. A good track crew will move you to the front edge after you have moved slowly through the puddle. With a full depth street front tire, going around the water & backing in makes sense, if the starting line crew lets you do that. I always do at least 1 "chirpy" after coming out of the burnout just to be sure the rear tires are dry. It also will tend to dry the fronts a bit.
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A couple high RPM dry hops look cool, and instill fear into the opposing driver.
It keeps the track workers on thier feet as well.
 
It's also knowing the track. Some have very light water spray. Some have a shallow puddle. If the latter? I would recommend not using box with treaded tires. Drag radials don't get a whole lot stickier when heated as slicks are designed to do. So I guess. When in doubt? Skip the box with those tires. As far as what gear? 4.10s can easily start from 2nd. My 3.55? Likes 1st gear. Even though 2nd does work. It's easier to stall it a bit in 2nd. Thus not get the desired spin.
 
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Great "2nd forum shift" advice.
I never even considered 3rd gear burnouts, until some here suggested it.
It is the Passon 855 5 speed, my wife's GTO is going to have the TKO600 in it in about a month.
So I feel comfortable trying 2nd gear to do this first few times, and go from there.
Backing into the water I drive around is my best bet I think.
I don't plan on overdoing it.
As far as spinning 'em up, I have been only doing 1st gear clutch dumps after completely avoiding the water. I'd usually do 2, and then roll up to the starting line.
The line lock is going to be the first time I really get some heat in the tires. (Short sidewalls and all...)
 
Years ago when I raced a 4-speed car I always started my burnouts in 2nd gear. If I wanted more wheel speed I shifted to third while doing my burnout. Ron
 
When i was racing my stick shift car, many years ago at the original irwindale raceway in ca (where they tested the pilot ss/a 68 hemi barracuda), I used either 2nd or 3rd. I didn't have a linelock, so I spun the tires lightly in the water in first, to make sure they were wet, and not deep in the water box. Then, lots of rpm, let the clutch fly, then LEFT foot on the brake pedal, hold rpm around 4000 (small block) then step off the brakes, roll out a little, then step on the clutch.
I loved the old irwindale. I had my best moment ever racing there. I set a personal best, reached a e.t. goal (12 second pass, I was young!) and thumped an Earl Wade prepped Boss 429 with a small block 4 speed 57 chevy, all on the same pass!
 
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383man said:
Years ago when I raced a 4-speed car I always started my burnouts in 2nd gear. If I wanted more wheel speed I shifted to third while doing my burnout. Ron
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Be careful trying this. I've seen some gears lying on the asphalt when people try this and the tires are getting sticky. I m not saying you cant do it but just be careful. Its much easier to start in third gear with the wet tires
 
biomedtechguy said:
Wow! So many 3rd gear burnout recommendations! I guess that will be what I do!
What about the clutch action? Is this a rev up to ???? and dump the clutch? I'm wondering, because otherwise I fear the embarrassing stall in the water box:wetting:
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Don't sweat it. You wouldn't be the first one if you did.:lol:

biomedtechguy said:
Watch it! The guys are going to :pPOUNCE:rolleyes: on you for racing with "front tires that are too wide"...:poke::D

:thumbsup: :bananadance::thankyou:
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It's not a race car, just a street car. That's why I have the wide front tires. I probably hear this 2-3 times from people every time I go to the track.
I have no roll cage so Legally I cant go under 11.5 seconds. I ran it down to 11.02 once and they threaten to kick me off the track for good until I get a roll bar.
 
69sunfireGTX said:
Don't sweat it. You wouldn't be the first one if you did.:lol:


It's not a race car, just a street car. That's why I have the wide front tires. I probably hear this 2-3 times from people every time I go to the track.
I have no roll cage so Legally I cant go under 11.5 seconds. I ran it down to 11.02 once and they threaten to kick me off the track for good until I get a roll bar.
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I was joking about the short sidewalls because I am constantly told about mine being too short. Granted, the comments usually come in traction or drag race posts I've initiated, and I've said many times they were the very first tires I tried when I bought the Year One aluminum Rallye wheels, and they've been GREAT on the street.
So I was alluding to that.
 
Sorry,,,,,,,can't help:hifu: I'm still pressing BUTTONS!:lol::carrot:
Don't forget to signal when changing lanes!:BangHead::bananaweed::bananaweed:



5.20.19 036.jpg
 
a lot depends on the horsepower you have and what tires. Until you have everything together, motor upgrades, tires, and have driven the car it's just keyboard racing. :poke:
 
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