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'70 super Bee Suspension Refresh

Mopardude86

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Evening everyone. I hope all is well!

I'm in the process of going through my car and getting her road worthy again after sitting for years. Lots of slop and play.

Would someone be kind enough to give me a parts list and repeatable companies to look into?
Any info is appreciated
 
Kind of depends on what direction you want to go, stock, performance, etc. But here is a list with some recommendations;

  • Ball joints - Moog (many places to get them, I always look at Rockauto first )
  • Bushings (UCA, LCA, struts, sway bars) - if you want stock, again Rockauto, I normally use poly from someplace like PST
  • Struts - probably don't need new ones unless performance is what you are after, then look at adjustable struts from Firm Feel
  • Steering box - I normally get mine rebuilt by firm Feel to stage 3, but there are others on the market to include the smaller/newer Borgeson (advertised here upper right)
  • Pitman arm - again rockauto for s stock one or you can go fast ratio from Firm Feel
  • Idler arm - same deal as the pitman arm
  • Shocks - have a big effect on handling; a lot of possibilities here ranging from stock to double adjustable QA1 (or others). I run Bilstiens on most of my stuff. Had KYB, IMO they suck
  • Wheel bearings - Rockauto or local auto parts store
I am sure I am forgetting something and opinions will vary on brand/type/source but this should give you something to think about.
 
Some affordable upgrades worth making while you are in there in addition to the already useful advise above is grease-able pins for the lower control arm bushings, new torsion bar adjuster bolts, and new upper control arm cam bolts.
 
Remember PST is a sponsor/member here. They can help you with your needs and the discount is a bonus.
 
Thanks guys for the great advice! I'll be honest, I'm new to Mopar suspension and how all the components work but it looks pretty straight forward. I just want it to act appropriately again!
The brakes will be next because they are super hard. Maybe it's just the characteristics of manual drum brakes...
 
I let my sister-in-law drive my 66 Charger once. She drove a few blocks and pulled over.Jumped out of the car screaming "HOW DO YOU STOP THIS THING !!" I forgot she never drove a manual drum brake car before.
Good luck and have fun with your project.
 
Kind of depends on what direction you want to go, stock, performance, etc. But here is a list with some recommendations;

  • Ball joints - Moog (many places to get them, I always look at Rockauto first )
  • Bushings (UCA, LCA, struts, sway bars) - if you want stock, again Rockauto, I normally use poly from someplace like PST
  • Struts - probably don't need new ones unless performance is what you are after, then look at adjustable struts from Firm Feel
  • Steering box - I normally get mine rebuilt by firm Feel to stage 3, but there are others on the market to include the smaller/newer Borgeson (advertised here upper right)
  • Pitman arm - again rockauto for s stock one or you can go fast ratio from Firm Feel
  • Idler arm - same deal as the pitman arm
  • Shocks - have a big effect on handling; a lot of possibilities here ranging from stock to double adjustable QA1 (or others). I run Bilstiens on most of my stuff. Had KYB, IMO they suck
  • Wheel bearings - Rockauto or local auto parts store
I am sure I am forgetting something and opinions will vary on brand/type/source but this should give you something to think about.
IMO..
Shocks....I like Monroe Super 500 larger piston, rod and valving and special oil for a VERY FIRM ride. Available on line thru eBay as NOS.
Wheel BEARINGS....ONLY TIMKEN available thru Summit or on line thru eBay. Be wary of some suppliers selling old NDH (Delco New Departure Hyatt) bearings. SKF or NTN are OK but prefer Timken.
BOB RENTON
 
I think there is a lot of options with shocks and the Monroe's sound like they would work well.

I agree on the bearings, don't want to go cheap there.

You might want to think about converting to disc brakes in the front although drums can and do work (have for many years).
 
There is a tool kit available to R&R the front suspension.
It has the torsion bar removal tool, upper ball joint socket and bushing presses to do this job correctly.
I bought it on eBay from a guy in the Midwest. It was all made in the USA stuff. Around 200 for the kit, but I don’t know how you would work on a front suspension without it.
 
Well, I removed a lot of torsion bars over the years without the tool, I only recently got one. As for the ball joints, I just bought the ball joint kit from HF and that worked out fine. Not hating on the idea of getting the tools, just saying it is not a mandatory thing, there are more than one way to do pretty much everything.
 
I suppose having the correct tools for the job isn’t necessary, but I like good tools that are made in the states, and they make the job easier and safer.
 
Sure having the right 1 7/8 impact socket is required but there are lots of sources for that as well as many other parts. Just saying that there are many sources for tools that will get the job done correctly.
 
Thanks guys for the great advice! I'll be honest, I'm new to Mopar suspension and how all the components work but it looks pretty straight forward. I just want it to act appropriately again!
The brakes will be next because they are super hard. Maybe it's just the characteristics of manual drum brakes...
www.musclecarbrakes.com
 
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