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Dropping the distributor

Moparfiend

Moparfiend

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When I drop a distributor in an engine I have the rotor point to cylinder one. But this is just a custom for uniformity of wire location right? As long as the order of the wires is correct and in alignment of the rotor it does not mater which direction the rotor points. Correct?
 
Correct, so long as you have the engine at TDC on the compression stroke, you figure out which terminal the rotor is pointed at and that becomes #1, then you wire it accordingly.
 
Correct, as long as the rotor is pointing to #1 wire position and timing is set to top dead center, compression stroke.
 
Thanks thats what I thought! Finally I posted a question here that does not require an infinite number of replies lol

Case closed lol
 
One thing to take a look at though is where your vacuum advance is or will be with the distributor in place. On my 440, I needed to pull the drive gear out several times to get the distributor (vacuum advance) in a spot where it allowed the distributor to seat and still allowed free movement of the distributor for timing.
 
Not sure if this is for a BB or SB (it might be the same) but from what i read was that the slot in the oil pump drive shaft supposed to face the same direction as the camshaft, right?
Mine currently is at 90deg on the camshaft, but as 70chall440 mentioned you need to check the direction/position of the vac canister.
Haven't tried but seems like i am unable to set it in that position without the vac can hitting the cylinder head.

But maybe that's the OP's reason for asking?
 
Yeah there are some "rules of thumb" out there that say the slot should point this way or that way, this is designed to put the VA in a spot where it isn't an issue when timing the engine. While they absolutely work, it is worth understanding that the drives can be put into the engine/oil pump is a wide variety of positions (basically 360 degrees), sometimes you might need to rotate the oil pump to get the drive in, for this you need to have or make a tool that allows you to reach down inside the engine and turn it (same tool can be used to prime the engine when put into a drill).

This isn't difficult or a problem, you just need to think about it a little. Once you understand how everything interacts with everything else it is very easy to deal with.
 
Wietse said:
Not sure if this is for a BB or SB (it might be the same) but from what i read was that the slot in the oil pump drive shaft supposed to face the same direction as the camshaft, right?
Mine currently is at 90deg on the camshaft, but as 70chall440 mentioned you need to check the direction/position of the vac canister.
Haven't tried but seems like i am unable to set it in that position without the vac can hitting the cylinder head.

But maybe that's the OP's reason for asking?
Click to expand...

Factory setting of the dizzy is uniform between the engines. You can set it anyway you want but the limit of the distributor can come into play with the vacuum advance interference.

The slot on the Big Block is inline with the cam but on my new cam it was off a bit for some reason.
 
If you rotate the crank until the timing mark is at TDC on the firing stroke and install the drive gear so that the slot is parallel with the cam after the gear bottoms out, engaging the oil pump, the vacuum advance canister should be facing the driver's side at a right angle to the cam, allowing plenty of adjustment for timing without interference.
 
Moparfeind said:
When I drop a distributor in an engine I have the rotor point to cylinder one. But this is just a custom for uniformity of wire location right? As long as the order of the wires is correct and in alignment of the rotor it does not mater which direction the rotor points. Correct?
Click to expand...

What is a distributor? The big block in my car doesn't have one.
DSC_3678 (Large).JPG
 
andyf said:
What is a distributor? The big block in my car doesn't have one.
Click to expand...

Well.....there is still something poking in the hole there on your engine, its got 3 wires if i can see it correct. :D

Smart looking engine though! :thumbsup:
 
I run mechanical advance :) but understood thats a good point.
 
Wietse said:
Well.....there is still something poking in the hole there on your engine, its got 3 wires if i can see it correct. :D

Smart looking engine though! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Yep, a cam sync replaces the distributor when using a coil near plug ignition setup.
DSC_3301 (Large).JPG
 
Hey Andy F. Love seeing your engine builds in Mopar Action! I remember on the TF 470 build it looked like original caps with studs, this engine has cross bolted mains. Where can I view more of you builds and engine combos?
 
Splangj said:
Hey Andy F. Love seeing your engine builds in Mopar Action! I remember on the TF 470 build it looked like original caps with studs, this engine has cross bolted mains. Where can I view more of you builds and engine combos?
Click to expand...

Check the Tech Articles section of my website: http://arengineering.com/
 
I've fantasized of doing CNP, but was intimidated by the initial tuning and what EFI system to use. I had to read the cam sync instructions at least a couple times.
 
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