Mikes method works, and even better if you can set them in the sun, or warm space, to preheat them, and the coating really seeps into the joints...I have done 2 each hoods, deck lids, and several doors with Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating. The product creeps into crevices and flat panel laps (spot welded). Spray cans come with extension tubing to get into those interiors. Before finish painting, I set the panels up on edge and rotate to all sides to ensure good coating. Kind of messy-prepare!
Mike
i had it acid dipped before paint work. The metal comes back beautiful ! No, rust, bondo, seam sealer, paint, undercoating, nothing but pristine metal.
Sure and now it "oil cans" like crazy when you touch it 'cause all the internal support goop is gone. What's the solution for that - seriously, I'm dealing with that issue right now.
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If i had any issues with this, i would not have recommended it. Mine was done three years ago. I have not had one issue with oil canning, or anything else. After your post, i asked my body & paint guy about it. His response was, that the oil canning occurs when the metal is left in the acid too long. As the support goop is in big gobs. Which take a while for the acid to dissolve. For a short period rust removal, its not an issue. The long period soaking is done for race cars, for less weight.Sure and now it "oil cans" like crazy when you touch it 'cause all the internal support goop is gone. What's the solution for that - seriously, I'm dealing with that issue right now.
View attachment 914865
If i had any issues with this, i would not have recommended it. Mine was done three years ago. I have not had one issue with oil canning, or anything else. After your post, i asked my body & paint guy about it. His response was, that the oil canning occurs when the metal is left in the acid too long. As the support goop is in big gobs. Which take a while for the acid to dissolve. For a short period rust removal, its not an issue. The long period soaking is done for race cars, for less weight.