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Another Electrical Question

66plysat

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I'm currently putting my 66 Satellite back together after painting and I'm having many electrical issues. The one that has me baffled right now, I have working headlights and taillights, however only the passenger side brake light works. I've replaced the bulbs with new bulbs, didn't change a thing, still no driver side brake light. The harness is new, I even reinstalled the old harness to make sure the new harness was bad, same problem, no driver side brake light.

The front turn indicators (blinkers) worked a week ago, the rear indicators (blinkers) did not work at that time. Now for some reason none of the indicators work at all now.

I'm hoping there's some simple answer to my problem so I can move on to the next issue. Any help will be appreciated.
 
Check, clean up your grounds. Bulb sockets, everything. It bites ya every time. Look at something cross-eyed, there's go the bulb! A week later, it'll start working again.
 
I'm currently putting my 66 Satellite back together after painting and I'm having many electrical issues. The one that has me baffled right now, I have working headlights and taillights, however only the passenger side brake light works. I've replaced the bulbs with new bulbs, didn't change a thing, still no driver side brake light. The harness is new, I even reinstalled the old harness to make sure the new harness was bad, same problem, no driver side brake light.

The front turn indicators (blinkers) worked a week ago, the rear indicators (blinkers) did not work at that time. Now for some reason none of the indicators work at all now.

I'm hoping there's some simple answer to my problem so I can move on to the next issue. Any help will be appreciated.
Have you checked the turn signal switch for 12 volt power? And the turn signal switch for continuity? Check the 4-way flasher switch. There is always the possibility of poor connections at the bulkhead connector. Is the turn signal flasher good? Check by substitution. And have you checked the fuse and fuse block. Are you using light bulbs or LED replacement lamps. The turn signal flasher needs current to operate and LEDs draw little current ..... so the flasher won't work..... just thinking outloud....
BOB RENTON
 
Clean/check the fuse holder. Hadthat happen on a charger. Had to sand clean the fuse holder

Also check for power out of the turn signal switch at bottom of column
 
Get a power probe, watch some youtube vids, it will make your electrical efforts so much easier because you can test grounds, apply power, etc.
 
Try 4-way flasher switch. As RJ mentioned, if using LED bulbs, you need a special flasher to replace the stock one.
If the 4-way flasher works (all the lights blink), then the next area to check is the turn signal switch. The turn signal switch has it's own flasher unit too.
The brake lights and 4-way flashers are on a circuit that is always hot, the turn signals are on a switched circuit where the key needs to be on.
So if brakes and 4-way flashers work, and turn signals don't check power to the flasher can for the turn signals. You can remove the flasher can and jump the connections to check if power is getting to the turn signal switch.
 
Get a Power Probe and some jumper leads.. Had the same issue, found a ground wire had decided it didn't want to be attached.
 
Looks like I'll be spending another day of power probing, yipee! Thanks for the suggestions.
 
I would start at the light socket and and work forward. Take the power probe and check for voltage at each connector and apply power to see if light comes on. So Bulb, Rear Harness, and this is where I bow out, 70 and later I know, 66 not so much, as to T/S switch and Emergency flasher switch (if applicable)..
 
Ive got about every tool Power Probe sells and I love them especially the probe itself, has saved me so much agony over the years. Best tool ever built for electrical work.
 
Ive got about every tool Power Probe sells and I love them especially the probe itself, has saved me so much agony over the years. Best tool ever built for electrical work.
Any specific model of Power Probe do you recommend? It looks to be a versatile tool to have. I usually use FLUKE Digital Multimeter but it looks as if the Power Probe would also be advantage to have as well. Where could I buy one? Approximately how much for a good model? Thanks in advance for your help.
BOB RENTON
 
Well like all tools, I always get the best one I can afford, that said any of them will do the job. I would recommend the PP3 or 4 equally as they both with do what you want. You don't need the best/most expensive model out there.

Where the PP comes into its own is the fact that you can not only test power (or lack there of) but you can apply power to a terminal. Let's say a tail light is out, you can go to the bulb and apply power to the terminals and determine immediately if it works or not, you don't have to put a new one in and then wonder if perhaps it is faulty when it doesn't work; the PP will tell you for sure one way or another. You can tell if a circuit is grounding out, tell if it has power, it will tell you what your alternator is putting out, tell you how much juice the battery has, etc. The PP does what 2 or 3 other tools do which is why it is great.

I had a tail light issue on my car trailer, played around with the bulb for a minute but then got out the PP and within about 2 minutes figured out that the wires had been cut up by the tires which was kind of hidden. I cannot recommend a PP any stronger if you are going to do any electrical work; got mystery wires hanging.. the PP will tell you if they are hot, grounded or not connected to anything. Want to do some testing on a circuit or switch, the PP will allow you to apply power to one side or another.
 
My money is on the turn signal switch. I've had the same issues on a couple cars. It was always issues within the steering column.
 
I never used the power probe, but I see how it would be useful.
 
Once you use one you will wonder how you lived without it... No I don't work for them but I do a lot of electrical work and found this to be hands down the most useful tool I have for that area of vehicle work.
 
I'm always looking for paper clips or some mig wire to probe connectors with the DMM.
 
I am a bit of a tool whore... I do love obtaining new ones especially ones that work exceptionally well. Like most car guys, I have worked around the lack of specific tools for years, but in recent times i began buying good tools and I can really tell the difference. Just bought a tool to assemble AN quick lock fittings; a bit expensive but man does it work well.
 
I like the options of the "hook", but $400 !
The IV is like $130.

I usually use an older Greenlee DMM, that looks like it was modeled after the Fluke 78?
Have several of the cheap Harbor freight DMMs (they work fine for general troubleshooting, but the probe leads are really short.)
Two old RCA Volt-Ohmest analog meters,
A DMM with a clamp on AC / DC current meter, and
a cheap baylight hall effect current / voltage meter ($18).

https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Digit...1&qid=1583434750&sprefix=hall+effect+,aps,180
 
Well like all tools, I always get the best one I can afford, that said any of them will do the job. I would recommend the PP3 or 4 equally as they both with do what you want. You don't need the best/most expensive model out there.

Where the PP comes into its own is the fact that you can not only test power (or lack there of) but you can apply power to a terminal. Let's say a tail light is out, you can go to the bulb and apply power to the terminals and determine immediately if it works or not, you don't have to put a new one in and then wonder if perhaps it is faulty when it doesn't work; the PP will tell you for sure one way or another. You can tell if a circuit is grounding out, tell if it has power, it will tell you what your alternator is putting out, tell you how much juice the battery has, etc. The PP does what 2 or 3 other tools do which is why it is great.

I had a tail light issue on my car trailer, played around with the bulb for a minute but then got out the PP and within about 2 minutes figured out that the wires had been cut up by the tires which was kind of hidden. I cannot recommend a PP any stronger if you are going to do any electrical work; got mystery wires hanging.. the PP will tell you if they are hot, grounded or not connected to anything. Want to do some testing on a circuit or switch, the PP will allow you to apply power to one side or another.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR RECOMMENDATION. I'll try Amazon or google the Power Probe web site, or maybe eBay. Ill look at the PP3 or PP4 tool, depending on price.
BOB RENTON
 
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