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Mopar Performance Single Plane intake question

“I think with the OP's combo, he's operating on a budget and having fun, not looking for that last 3hp. It's really more about the combo and running good than maxing out the .200" duration numbers per .006 or .050"...”

Couldn’t agree more...
 
"Why would the poster use a M1 intake and not a Victor or Trick Flow?
Why would he use L2355F pistons and not Diamond or Ross?
Why run 906 heads, hell just get Trick Flows or B1?
Why run a 727 and not a 904?"

I agree but red hearings
why run an expensive copy of a designed for a chevy cam in a mopar
 
"Why would the poster use a M1 intake and not a Victor or Trick Flow?
Why would he use L2355F pistons and not Diamond or Ross?
Why run 906 heads, hell just get Trick Flows or B1?
Why run a 727 and not a 904?"

I agree but red hearings
why run an expensive copy of a designed for a chevy cam in a mopar
Red hearings? Bullshit.
There is no need to max every build out. Absolutely none what so ever. No matter how you justify it with your words. Longevity is the key in mild builds. Your head is always at the race track.
Bighead
why would you put a chevy cam in a mopar?

You know why. You always suggest this for the most mildest builds when it is not needed and you know why.
You have tunnel vision.


@brian.linn The stock 4bbl. made 375 HP on a 440 as delivered by aka MoPar. In other words, build a stock engine and you’ll have what you want. Don’t use the single plane. It is a race intake designed for best use @ 3500 rpm or better. Your heavy car will really like the dual plane better. But if you really just want to run it, do it.

Wyrmriders constant mention of a “Chevy” cam is reference to the slow lazy lobes as compared to a specific cam cut to take advantage of a larger .904 lifter.
At your lower goals, this is not needed. The more aggressive loves wear springs out faster. If your rocker geometry is off, and Wyrm will tell you it is, then you’ll also wear out the valve guides faster as well.
 
don't display your ignorance
a chevy lobe is more radical than a profile spread out on a larger mopar lifter
or it can be the same for more performance
or it cn be more for race only builds
we're not talking re only builds
The Lunati voodoos are exacctlly the same paramaters as the chevy voodoos
"The more aggressive loves wear springs out faster"
The mopar voodoo is not a "more agressive" lobe and the comp 268 is obsolete even compard to the Ultradyne much less the Lunati
There are "more agressive" bracket lobes and circle track lobes out ther but that's not what we are talking about here
read the thread
I support OP on his other choices- not tryng to max out his build but make th best of what he has
Crane and Engle and others have three lines of hyd grinds
you do not pick from the bottom of the page
 
I ran the M1 when they first came out
However on my street car I preferred the Torker II
Not a lot of difference but the M1 ended up on my bracket car where I didn't have to worry about part throttle or low RPM performance
 
@brian.linn, I was going to suggest using the whiplash, since you have it, and then retarding the cam a couple degrees to try to make it work. That is, until i read Hughes blurb on their whiplash cams. They specifically advise against that, and warn that it WILL NOT work well with a comp ratio over 8.9 to 1. I think a different cam is neccessary for this engine. Save the whiplash for a low comp 383 or 400. The bucks you save by not buying a rpm could buy a nicely matched cam for your engine. I would ask Dwayne Porter at PR heads for a reccomendation.
 
don't display your ignorance
Pot attempting to call someone a kettle.
LMAO!!!!
I love your attempted twisting below. Very good job for those that don’t know how you often word yourself.
Please, stop trying to fool FABO.
 
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