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1966 charger El unit capacitor change

Moparnocar

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Getting ready to swap out my capacitor since it's original.

This is the one I found people talking about online, seem like the right one?
 
Pic

IMG_20200402_131225341.jpg
 
The capacity is close enough, but the replacement is a DC capacitor, and possibly electrolytic. If it has a "+" end, connect it to the power side, and the other to ground. The line on the original capacitor just denotes the anode side. You should not have a problem finding the exact original. I replaced all of the capacitors for an old radio from the '40s for a friend and found the correct ones.

It should just be a filter capacitor, so what you have is close, just observe any polarity if noted on the replacement capacitor.
 
The capacity is close enough, but the replacement is a DC capacitor, and possibly electrolytic. If it has a "+" end, connect it to the power side, and the other to ground. The line on the original capacitor just denotes the anode side. You should not have a problem finding the exact original. I replaced all of the capacitors for an old radio from the '40s for a friend and found the correct ones.

It should just be a filter capacitor, so what you have is close, just observe any polarity if noted on the replacement capacitor.
I do not see any marked denoting positive or neg on the new one, how can I tell?
 
An AC capacitor will have a band at one end, an electrolytic capacitor will have a "+" by one terminal, If the capacitor has neither, then it doesn't matter which way it is hooked up. If you were to post a pic of the cap, it would be a better way to id it.

I assume you are using the one in the first pic. Hook it up any way, and the spec sheet indicated that you should be good with the voltage and current.
 
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An AC capacitor will have a band at one end, an electrolytic capacitor will have a "+" by one terminal, If the capacitor has neither, then it doesn't matter which way it is hooked up. If you were to post a pic of the cap, it would be a better way to id it.

I assume you are using the one in the first pic. Hook it up any way, and the spec sheet indicated that you should be good with the voltage and current.
Yes, it's the one in the first pic, thanks
Also, my $10 soldering iron ain't touching this 1967 solder. Do I need a more powerful one?
 
A $10 25w soldering iron has ALWAYS been garbage. I use a 125W (or so) soldering gun, or an electronic gee whiz one at home. Use leaded solder, and not lead free (has a higher melting point). The old joints will melt, but can be difficult. Put the tip on the joint, and apply solder to the tip. It will melt, and aid in melting the old solder. Also, make sure the screw holding the tip in the iron is tight so it will heat better. A loose tip will never get hot enough.
 
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