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orange box out again should i convert to GM module

mopar440bbody

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what GM module to use on a 440 to convert to GM ign. this one is for sale at o'reillys .............
  • Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
  • Unit of Measure: Each
  • UPC: # 91769018009
  • Terminal Type: Blade
  • Connector Gender: Male
  • Number Of Terminals: 4
  • Terminal Gender: Male
  • Voltage (V): 12 Volt
 
Go with an MSD6 or something. I gave up on those colored boxes in the 90's...
 
I have been using Eboogers HiRev box for 5 years now. Keep a spare in the glove box in case.
 
I would recommend an MSD streetfire.
Mine works well.
 
If your mind's made up to swap to the GM-style(nothing wrong with that) do a search here and over on FABO for 'HEI'....I've seen lots of good info on the conversion over the years. Just gotta dig it up..that way you can avoid non-helpful replies like many of those above..
 
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If your mind's made up to swap to the GM-style(nothing wrong with that) do a search here and over on FABO for 'HEI'....I've seen lots of good info on the conversion over the years. Just gotta dig it up..that way you can avoid non-helpful replies like many of those above..

One thing to be aware of, often a box is replaced when the real issue is the pick up coil or the air gap on the pick up coil... The module gets it's signal from the pick up... Sometimes the circuitry in a new box will trigger with a weak signal so you assume a new box fixed it the old box was bad... In fact the old box is in range but the signal it receives is weak...

GM Modules need a clean signal too so you may or may not solve anything...

If you test the output of a GM pick up coil it is stronger than the output of a Mopar pick up so the module is already seeing a weak trigger
 
My points rr runs starts fine why screw up something simple with electronic. Life is short enjoy the ride.
 
My points rr runs starts fine why screw up something simple with electronic. Life is short enjoy the ride.
My RS23V0A******* uses a Prestolite dual point distributor and as you stated, runs fine .....or, according the old corollary to Murphy's Law which says: "Fancy gizmos don t work or if they do, they don't work for long".....
BOB RENTON
 
According to his photo garage he still has the original point breaker voltage regulator which may be contributing to his box failure issue.
The new orange boxes also seem to have a high failure rate.
That said I ran original equipment Chrysler electronic boxes in several cars and trucks for years and years.
For example my first car 77 fury I sold with 192,000 miles (90K I put on it) never touched the distributor or amplifier module.
Can you do that with points?
Besides he already has electronic ignition, so unless he has a points distributor on hand he would need to buy that.
Points aren't the best choice for everyone.
 
According to his photo garage he still has the original point breaker voltage regulator which may be contributing to his box failure issue.
The new orange boxes also seem to have a high failure rate.
That said I ran original equipment Chrysler electronic boxes in several cars and trucks for years and years.
For example my first car 77 fury I sold with 192,000 miles (90K I put on it) never touched the distributor or amplifier module.
Can you do that with points?
Besides he already has electronic ignition, so unless he has a points distributor on hand he would need to buy that.
Points aren't the best choice for everyone.
IMO...
It would be nice to know which component of the "new" orange box has failed. That way, by reverse engineering, a fix could be implemented. Perhaps the large external transistor failed due to inadequate transient voltage spike protection or as you noted, too much input voltage variation due to the old mechanical voltage regulator or inadequate grounds which may contribute voltage spikes....which can cause failures....
BOB RENTON
 
I agree the on the electronic voltage reg, a must plus the 4 prong resister .007 gap on the reluctor, and a good ground. No need for any interracial marriage of parts to go wrong.
 
My RS23V0A******* uses a Prestolite dual point distributor and as you stated, runs fine .....or, according the old corollary to Murphy's Law which says: "Fancy gizmos don t work or if they do, they don't work for long".....
BOB RENTON

My issue with points are the cheap chinese sets available as replacements. I had one set bad out of the box. Older, made in USA nos sets are fine if available.
 
My issue with points are the cheap chinese sets available as replacements. I had one set bad out of the box. Older, made in USA nos sets are fine if available.

Perhaps, you can tell us what not to buy, based on your experience, so someone else does not make the same mistake. I suggest that you look on line thru various NOS suppliers, such as Standard Motor Products Blue Streak or OEM Mopar vendors. Why would consider Chinese stuff when origional equipment can be found....realizing that origional Mopar NOS and NOS USA manufactured components cost more but cost should not enter in the equation....only piece of mind and smooth operation....and how much can this be worth?......maybe priceless.....
BOB RENTON
 
If you guys want to discuss points why not start a new thread?
I'll read it.
I don't see how a discussion on points is helping mopar440bbody you are getting further and further from his original topic.
 
I'm considering going to a gm setup also. I've got an "orange" Mancini brand box sitting on my workbench. I'd look at the 8 pin gm module as well before you settle on the 4 pin. It's got a few more features that you may or may not want down the road.

Honestly the appeal of the gm system to me is local parts availability. I prefer to drive my classic daily.
 
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