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Powder coating pulleys and brackets?

Beekeeper

It’s a disease without a cure!
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I have media blasted all the pulleys and brackets for my 440 and wondering what most are using for the paint on them. Been wondering about having them powder coated reckon that would be a better finish? I think the sheen is around 30% gloss.
 
No problem on the brackets but I'm not so sure I'd powder coat the pulleys. You want the pulley to have some grip on the belt.
 
I had some powder coated on a fairly quick revving engine. I had problems with the belts slipping at times.
I only paint them with rattle can black these days.
 
I guess I’ll just throw some semi gloss rattle can on them along with the brackets as well.
Thanks for the replies
 
I have media blasted all the pulleys and brackets for my 440 and wondering what most are using for the paint on them. Been wondering about having them powder coated reckon that would be a better finish? I think the sheen is around 30% gloss.
I’m sure Cudachick1968 may have an answer on that
 
I just ordered the pulleys for my MW build from Mancini. They have a rough, textured finish on them, semi gloss. I'm not sure if they're powder coated or what. I'm going to sand them smooth, and spray them semi-gloss black.
 
Black Southern Polyurathane Epoxy Primer. Looks great and lasts forever, tough finish and chemical resistant.. The rattle can won't stand up.
 
I powder coat all my brackets and pulleys with my eastwood gun. Works just fine.
 
Black Southern Polyurathane Epoxy Primer. Looks great and lasts forever, tough finish and chemical resistant.. The rattle can won't stand up.
I really like that stuff too.
 
Ive done both. To be honest single stage black urethane is the ticket. Lasts forever. You can wax it. Mine done 16 years ago look like they were done yesterday. The belt never slips. Just wears off where it rides.
Doug
 
I coat pulleys and brackets all the time and have never personally experienced belt slip nor heard about it from any customer; if you do, tighten up the adjusting points.

Powder coating can also be waxed and even buffed. It's usually not necessary if you chose the finish / gloss rate you like to start with. It also won't wear as quickly and will be more durable than liquid paint (years/decades versus months) assuming the prep is properly done.

Keep in mind though that ANY steel or aluminum left bare will attract moisture and eventually start to corrode. Leaving the v-belt groove bare for example will invite an industry term called "creep," where rust will form on the bare steel and creep all over the part underneath the powder ... and one day your wrench will slip, hit the pulley and a big sheet of powder will fall off. Proper prep (media blasting and cleaning) will minimize that, but it's still a good idea to fully encapsulate the metal as much as possible to keep rust at bay.

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The "bare" looking steel on the linkage was cleared. Each water pump customer chooses full coverage or masking for the passages at their option.
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If you ever have questions about powder coating just call me. I'm happy to help.
 
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