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Alternator options

LemonWedge

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I traded in my belt driven water pump and fan setup this off-season for electric units. These items along with my electric fuel pump and all the typical stuff are probably stretching my stock style 65amp alternator to its limit. It seems to be okay until the fan comes on for extended periods. Then voltage will dip lower than it should.

For those that have been down this road, What have you guys had good experience with? I want to stay with an original frame look. I’ve read up a little bit about updating the entire system, going to an internally regulated unit and eliminating the Ammeter. I’m ok with this if it’s really the best road to take.

Powermaster? TuffStuff?..... talk to me.
 
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I have not used that kit, I have looked at it & if I need to upgrade I'd likely buy it.. As long as you can solder well I don't see any reason that kit wouldn't work...
 
On my Coronet I just bought a Chevy 1 wire alternator 80amp (about $100) and bolted it onto my stock bracket with the help of some washer type spacers. Worked fine. No problem. In the one picture you can barely see the long steel spacer at the top of the picture that I bought at the hardware store to finish the mounting of the alternator to the block.
I bought a 5" pulley from summit to spin it a little slower and save horsepower. No problem running my Holley Black fuel pump, electric water pump and electric fans. I had 2 Optima red top batteries in the trunk. I ran a 10 gauge wire from the alternator hot stud directly back to the batteries. In the bottom picture you can see that 10 gauge wire coming up thru the floor of the truck and connecting directly to the positive post on one of the batteries.
Although I did charge the batteries between rounds (when I had time) but probably didn't need to do that. I never worried about the batteries not having enuf charge to start the car...they always did.
And most important when the motor was running and spinning the alternator I never worried about the water pump, electric fans and MOST IMPORTANT never worried about the MSD Ignition system having the 13volts (or so) that was being sent back to the batteries to run the Ignition system.

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I went with a Powermaster 95 amp unit. Retains the factory type case and I think it was under a hundred dollars, not sure as it was years ago.
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I used a late 8 0's early 90's factory alternator. Wires the same the rear is deeper but clears the head. Same brackets. Close to 100amp. Even polishes up nice.
Doug

Debbys Engine.jpg
 
I use a Tough Stuff alternator, i think its 130 amp, looks stock and set up as a 1 wire. I eliminated the AMP gauge and put a volt gauge behind the stock gauge face, that's why the needle is on "D" when the car is off, I set the volt gauge to 12.5 volts in the middle so i know if the alt is charging or not. I also added 2 10 gauge wires to the alternator, one goes to the firewall like stock and the other goes directly to the battery.

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1 wire mini alternator , 130 amp, volt meter bypass, because i also installed 2 fans and almost done installing electric water pump.went higher amp output so as the unit would not be putting max amps all the time. my 1700 cfm fans will blow a 20 amp fuse. alternator at low center in pic.
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I’m partial to the ford 3gen alternator it’s 135 amp rated similar in size to the stock alternator and easy to wire

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On my 66 Belvedere, I run a PowerMaster 95a Round back alternator. My only electrical needs are my fuel pump, the MSD box, and twin fans (1600 CFM each). No radio, No electric windows, No headlight, No anything. I believe I am all set. Runs with only a slight voltage drop when I kick on the fans.
 
I run the Powermaster 1 wire alternator for three years no problems. I had dual fans and aluminum radiator went back to stock runs way cooler and stays at 180
 
I used a late 8 0's early 90's factory alternator. Wires the same the rear is deeper but clears the head. Same brackets. Close to 100amp. Even polishes up nice.
Doug
View attachment 939870

thanks Doug, may I ask what you run in the race car?

I like the idea of the pro form unit with the Mopar emblem. Thanks!
 
Small East Coast mini. Its been reworked to 75 amp. I've sped it up so it runs 3-1 off the crank. Still barely big enough. Trouble is there is very little fore/aft room with my set up. The next time the engine is out of the car this may get reworked. Even with 2 Optimas 15-1 takes a fair amount of amps to crank. Not to mention that one header tube is very close to the starter. Go bigger when possible.
Doug
 
I traded in my belt driven water pump and fan setup this off-season for electric units. These items along with my electric fuel pump and all the typical stuff are probably stretching my stock style 65amp alternator to its limit. It seems to be okay until the fan comes on for extended periods. Then voltage will dip lower than it should.

For those that have been down this road, What have you guys had good experience with? I want to stay with an original frame look. I’ve read up a little bit about updating the entire system, going to an internally regulated unit and eliminating the Ammeter. I’m ok with this if it’s really the best road to take.

Powermaster? TuffStuff?..... talk to me.
here's a better shot of my 130 amp 1 wire mini alternator with internal regulator..with dual fans, msd, electric fuel pump, electric water pump, and everything else,,more is better. moved alternator tensioner arm to frame rail.
IMG_0399.JPG
 
Nippo Denso from a 89 Dakota 120 Amp available from any parts store. Have to make/modify the brackets some but easy to come by.
 

Out of curiosity, I went to the linked web site snd explored what the content of the upgrade was. New brush holders and brushes, hardware, insulators and DIODES.....BUT NO STATOR Windings. True, the origional diodes were germanium and were not as effective and the new diodes are silicon but the diodes are only half of the equation. The stator windings provide the AC current that the diodes change the AC to DC. IF just the diodes are upgraded, without changing or upgrading the stator windings, HOW can the overall capacity be increased without changing both components of the power generating system? I just researched the origional round back alternator but the square back unit is subject to the same constraints. How is the overall capacity increased.....by smoke and mirrors???....please enlighten me.
BOB RENTON
 
Out of curiosity, I went to the linked web site snd explored what the content of the upgrade was. New brush holders and brushes, hardware, insulators and DIODES.....BUT NO STATOR Windings. True, the origional diodes were germanium and were not as effective and the new diodes are silicon but the diodes are only half of the equation. The stator windings provide the AC current that the diodes change the AC to DC. IF just the diodes are upgraded, without changing or upgrading the stator windings, HOW can the overall capacity be increased without changing both components of the power generating system? I just researched the origional round back alternator but the square back unit is subject to the same constraints. How is the overall capacity increased.....by smoke and mirrors???....please enlighten me.
BOB RENTON

What is that second item from the bottom?
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