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Cam break in oil

MO.RR

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Getting ready for a cam swap and have some penngrade 10w-40 and a bottle of Howard’s zpm additive. Can I use just the 10w alone, 10w with zpm additive, or get true break in oil? I think I heard at one time that adding too much zinc is actually bad On bearings but I can’t remember.

Forgot to mention it’s a hydraulic flat tappet.
 
Personally I'd use a specific break in oil and not use any additive. My break in went great useing Penn Grade, formerly Brad Penn, formerly Kendall. Summit has it.

I'm not too keen on mixing a concoction that hasn't been proven.
 
Are you running stock valve springs? If you are, then an additive is typically okay. I’ve had very good luck with using Rotella 15/40 with Comp Cams additive on stock stuff. Just did a 360 last weekend.

On the last 440 I did we used Gibbs Break In Oil. I have a stiffer spring in that engine. That engine will always run a Penn Grade or Gibbs type specialty oil.
 
Are you running stock valve springs? If you are, then an additive is typically okay. I’ve had very good luck with using Rotella 15/40 with Comp Cams additive on stock stuff. Just did a 360 last weekend.

On the last 440 I did we used Gibbs Break In Oil. I have a stiffer spring in that engine. That engine will always run a Penn Grade or Gibbs type specialty oil.

going to comp 911 springs. I’m going to order a dedicated break in oil. Better to just do it right instead of mixing up a witches brew.
 
I used the brad penn break in oil also along with comps assembly lube.
My springs were new crane with a closed #s of 90 and open of #280.
I think one of the keys to a good break in is having the carb full and timing set so that sucker fires right off.
knock on wood mine turned out good.
Now a year and 1/2 later at oil changes I use lucas additive and 15/40 rotella.
 
Getting ready for a cam swap and have some penngrade 10w-40 and a bottle of Howard’s zpm additive. Can I use just the 10w alone, 10w with zpm additive, or get true break in oil? I think I heard at one time that adding too much zinc is actually bad On bearings but I can’t remember.

Forgot to mention it’s a hydraulic flat tappet.
BluePrint Engines have Break-in Oil.....I bought a carton for my engine. Contact @Johnny Mac - Vendor here on site :D
 
I used to use Royal Purple's high-zinc break in oil because my NAPA had it. Since they stopped carrying it I switched to the Driven (joe gibbs) and it's good stuff. Also used it in a buddy's ford with a comp 280-something HFT cam, that cranked forever AND flooded twice before firing (damn thing did NOT wanna start!) and everything is great...(for a ford LOL)...I'm a believer..
 
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Getting ready for a cam swap and have some penngrade 10w-40 and a bottle of Howard’s zpm additive. Can I use just the 10w alone, 10w with zpm additive, or get true break in oil? I think I heard at one time that adding too much zinc is actually bad On bearings but I can’t remember.

Forgot to mention it’s a hydraulic flat tappet.


No matter what oil you go with, remember a zinc addative needs to mix.....So you are relying on your oil pump to blend it, and there will be alot of surface to surface without zinc until it's blended.

A true break in oil is better.

https://blueprintengines.com/products/blueprint-engines-crate-engine-break-in-oil-1-quart-bpp710

Screenshot_20200423-071338_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
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Pre lubing is always a good idea, knowing you have the passages and galleys primed up before you hit the pucker button, gives some peace of mind.
 
If it's 440 it's suggested that engine is primed with oil pump manually first. Then rotate the engine over prime again until oil is noticed on the rockers of both banks, because some oil passages are blocked when cam is installed and lined up. Done it both ways no problem either way.
 
Thought about having to let the additive blend too and you can do this by using a container with an opening that's big enough to get a paint stirring rod into it. Pour in the additive and the oil and go for it. It's not like the additive is refined into the oil at the same time the oil is refined......it's an additive.
 
I added the additive to each quart of oil then did the oil bottle like a paint can shaking it up.
 
Kendall GT-1 High Performance with Liquid Titanium is a high-quality conventional automotive engine oil designed for use in gasoline-fueled passenger cars and light trucks that do not require an ILSAC GF-5 oil for warranty coverage.

This engine oil is especially recommended for use in high-performance street engines and competition engines, including both gasoline and alcohol-fueled racing vehicles.

Kendall GT-1 High Performance 20W-50 with Liquid Titanium also contains a boosted level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) additive to provide additional wear protection and enhanced oxidation resistance in the most demanding applications. It is particularly recommended for use in turbocharged engines and in high-performance engines with flat-tappet camshafts, especially during the critical break-in period.

Click here to view Product Data Sheet.
Click here to view Safety Data Sheet.



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Guy from Engel cams told me to use this. I also added addition zinc additive let run for 30 minutes. Then changed the oil. Working well like that, many ways to do it. Priming probably most important step in my opinion.
 
I slathered the cam with Comp cam break in lube that came with the cam, then used Rotella T5 (10w30) and a bottle of ZDDP Plus. Ran that all summer and changed it the following spring.
 
My understanding is reduced additive package for flat tappet cams, and inferior quality Chinese made lifters major contributor to cam failures.
 
My understanding is reduced additive package for flat tappet cams, and inferior quality Chinese made lifters major contributor to cam failures.

Using comp 822-16 lifters. Anyone have opinions on them?

I slathered the cam with Comp cam break in lube that came with the cam, then used Rotella T5 (10w30) and a bottle of ZDDP Plus. Ran that all summer and changed it the following spring.

That’s what my thought process was but I keep seeing flattened cam posts and really don’t care to go through that.
 
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