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440 dodge broken motor mount ear

Been using torque straps/chain for years. Tells others you either have a broken motor mount or have some serious power :D Keep in mind that ChryCo used torque straps (a small cable) on some of their cars but one end was bolted to a block ear.
 
There it is, always a way to figure stuff out!
 
I know torque straps are typically pretty effective for keeping rubber mounts together but in my application I’m looking for it to keep my compromised motor mount ears from ripping off the block again.
 
Just an fyi, I drilled holes thru my mounts, brackets and all, put an 8 grade bolt thru with a lock nut, not tightened all the way.
Allows movement, to a point.
I have a chain too that I previously put there.
 
Just to be clear, I ran a chain for years also & a torque strap for years even with the solid mounts for a while. They are great. But if the mount lugs are not up to snuff, a motor plate makes sense. Moves the fan 1/4" closer to the radiator. Angle tabs on the frame rails are easy. Just say'in.
 
Just thought I should post an update now that the weather is getting nicer and have had the chance to drive the car. I have without a doubt torture tested the block lots of rolling burnouts jamming it into second hard and everything is holding together perfect. May fail some day and will update this thread if it does but for now I say as long as drag slicks are not involved I think it will be alright.
 
you do burnouts in d and then let it hit you can grenade your trans and more than hurt yourself
that's what trans blankets are for
back off before it hooks
auto trans
bolt in sprag time and in manual low
 
Thanks, I have a nice 68 440 block that needs to be repaired the same.
 
Well it had a good run but had car on hoist rebuilding rear end and getting ready for spring and noticed bottom ear cracked through in a different spot. Not sure what I’m going to do at this point. Really don’t want to do elephant ears. It’s still all sandwiched together I’m thinking I’ll add the torque strap that I said I was going to add that I never did and keep an eye on it.

A4177D2D-19C1-426C-B35D-6DB450448EE2.jpeg
 
Pull it out before it gets worse. Grind a V and weld with Certainium 889 SP rods.
 
dadsbee said:
Pull it out before it gets worse. Grind a V and weld with Certainium 889 SP rods.
Click to expand...
Little beyond that now hard to tell from pictures but it is broken clean off end to end. That tab was already welded back on closer to the block the previous repair is fine but cracked off closer to the bolt now I suspect all the heat from previous repair made it more brittle. Already pulled motor once to have it welded so at this point it’s either elephant ears or band aid it with a torque strap and watch it.
 
I've seen an entire ear "built" out of weld, where they didn't even have the piece. It's never too late..... then tie the bugger down so it can't be moving and yanking. It shouldn't be cracking if everything is tight and can't gain momentum.
 
dadsbee said:
I've seen an entire ear "built" out of weld, where they didn't even have the piece. It's never too late..... then tie the bugger down so it can't be moving and yanking. It shouldn't be cracking if everything is tight and can't gain momentum.
Click to expand...

Everything is tight and I am running solid mounts. Not sure what caused it to crack other than my heavy foot and cast being brittle after being heated previously. Building the whole ear out of weld would really be a better option as long as you get a good bite into the block the weld would be less brittle than cast.
 
below is a repair using Certanium 889 SP rods, a nickel alloy. Most ears crack because of an over tightened bolt. If the mount is not 100% square it will draw the block inward and crack.

IMG_5127.JPG IMG_5130.JPG
 
1968rt said:
below is a repair using Certanium 889 SP rods, a nickel alloy. Most ears crack because of an over tightened bolt. If the mount is not 100% square it will draw the block inward and crack.

View attachment 1242225 View attachment 1242226
Click to expand...

looks good. I don’t think it was misalignment or overtorqued bolt as I was very careful putting it together as it was already repaired and also it’s been like that for 2 years. I may try and weld it best as I can in the car and just ordered a universal torque strap on summit. Try that and keep an eye on it.
 
I’ve been brain storming and I think I’ve decided on what I’m going to do and I might get picked on because it is a little bit on the hack side. I want to weld the engine support right to the broken ear. I know welding steel to cast iron isn’t ideal but if I can get a decently strong weld I won’t have to pull motor to repair. I’ve also ordered a universal torque rod to bolt to the engine to add support.
 
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