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Where to find A833 1-2 shift forks?

C

czgunner

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Tearing apart our cast iron A833 overdrive we found the 1-2 fork pretty worn.
I called Brewers and they don't have anything.
Tailshaft is marked C-8853? Front bearing retainer is marked C13157? Fork is marked F99385?
Not really sure what this is out of. My dad thinks it was an 80's truck. Plan is to put it behind a 440 in our '69 Satellite cruiser we're building.
Any help would be great. If anybody knows anything about the trans, that would be awesome.
 
I believe that if it is out of a 80’s over drive truck you won’t be happy. I had a 81 318 pickup. Very good with the 318, but I believe it won’t stand up to a 440.
I don’t even know about bell housings etc.
I could completely be barking up the wrong tree or out to lunch.
I don’t think a truck transmission will work in a car. Humbly submitted.
 
440 4 speed said:
I believe that if it is out of a 80’s over drive truck you won’t be happy. I had a 81 318 pickup. Very good with the 318, but I believe it won’t stand up to a 440.
I don’t even know about bell housings etc.
I could completely be barking up the wrong tree or out to lunch.
I don’t think a truck transmission will work in a car. Humbly submitted.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. If you meant the overdrive part, we chose the overdrive on purpose.
 
Large front bearing retainer may require the bell housing to be opened up. How much wear depth on the fork? How does the rest of it look? Clutching teeth, slider hubs, brass, bearings?
Doug
 
dvw said:
Large front bearing retainer may require the bell housing to be opened up. How much wear depth on the fork? How does the rest of it look? Clutching teeth, slider hubs, brass, bearings?
Doug
Click to expand...
We are planning on having the bearing retainer turned down. The trans is on the bench and we just got into it this afternoon. I'll probably have more info on the condition of the internals the next few days.
 
A little wear on the fork wont kill it. Once the slider moves over the struts itll fall into the next gear. I've have good success filling worn clutch hubs. Slow with a sharp file . Grind the edge off a file so it fits down in the tooth. Time consuming . The result was a very good shifting trans. You can sharpen the points on the clutching teeth with a Dremel using the small cut off wheel. Obviously the bearings and shafts have to be decent.
Doug
 
Looks forged steel/iron.

DC17C8D0-0B68-41D6-9D37-F641DDFA9BA4.jpeg
 
440 and 833 OD in my truck does just fine.

Watch what rear end gear you run though, or you might make 1st gear useless.

Some folks say 3.55 is the lowest to consider.
 
Steel forks have a double step on the shaft. You can cut the 1st step off and use them in place of brass. Brass will not work with the late cover that started out with steel.
Doug
 
steel forks can be welded and resized...that's why I asked, if you cant find one put a bead of weld on it and bring it back to the thickness it needs to be.
 
Back from the dead....
My dad is having a hard time getting the shifter linkage set up correctly.
Does anybody have some picture of how this is supposed to look?
Refresher: 1969 Satellite, cast iron A833 overdrive.
 
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