• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Sniper-Hyperspark install

72RoadrunnerGTX

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
4:05 PM
Joined
Jan 14, 2009
Messages
1,937
Reaction score
1,467
Location
Shoreline, Washington
The air cleaner “Four Barrel” call out just took on a new meaning for the Sat.
20200425_152727.jpg

Just completed the Holley Sniper-Hyperspark install on the 400. First drive with it today, couldn’t be more happy with the results.
20200425_152522.jpg

20200425_152529.jpg

20200423_130723.jpg

20200423_131053.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks like a nice job. Please elaborate on the modifications needed and how to tune.
 
I have installed 2 Holley Sniper kits and both cars were easy to setup. First being the Roadrunner and the second being a GTX. Both owners were super happy with the results. The ease of crank it up and go instead of dicking around with patting the peddle and waiting 10 minutes to warm up enough to pull its own weight made a world of difference.

Pretty much you program the engine parameters into the Holley computer and it self tunes while driving.. Its a little more complicated when you want to control the timing with the holley sniper computer. One car has a Mopar ignition setup electronic the other had a MSD ready to run distributor that was controlled by the Holley.
 
Jerry not to jack his thread but here is a very good video about the Holley sniper with Hyperspark setup and install.
 
Looks like a nice job. Please elaborate on the modifications needed and how to tune.
Elaborate? Ok, after a couple of years of trying to get an original style carburetor(s) to perform as I wanted for this driver, I finally committed to the conversion. Now, I’ve been tuning all forms of carburation on Mopar’s since I was a kid, professionally and not, and quite successful at it I might add, love my six-packs. But on this 50-year old driver today, no matter how well it runs, there always seems to be a compromise somewhere in drivability or integration to the factory linkages and other systems. Finally realized I wanted it the run like a modern car.

After thorough research I went with the Holley Sniper system, purchased a “Master Kit”, includes fuel pump, fittings, filters, and misc. hardware. Wasn’t too impressed with the fuel pump it came with, looked cheap and looked way too small. More research indicated there may be high failure rates and a high noise level for this pump. Went with Holley’s 12-600 billet pump. Fabed up bracket to mount it under the passenger seat where there was room and it was below the fuel tank level. Also took steps to rubber mount it, this paid off big time as it is whisper quit in operation.

More research sold me on the Hyper spark integration, allowing full timing control as well by the Sniper ECU. Some reading indicated there would be some distributor interference with the Edlebrock heads. There was, nothing that couldn’t be overcome with a small amount of clearancing.

Engine harness was pulled and reworked to accommodate the EFI and MSD looms, wrapped back up for a factory appearance.

As with some aftermarket carbs, I had concerns with the “Universal” throttle levers and correct integration with the factory cables and lick down linkages. I don’t care for the Lokar stuff, looks cheap to me. Found the Bouchillon Performance 727 Kick-down cable kit to be what was looking for, nice piece. The original throttle lever pin, trimmed, lined up with the original Thermoquad B-block throttle bracket.

Fuel lines, I had originally put this car together with the factory line configuration for a ’72 440. “3/8 fuel feed, “1/4 return, and a “5/16 fuel tank vent/vapor recovery line to the charcoal canister. The original “3/8 line was re-configured as the return, the “1/4 return line was removed, and another In-Line Tube “3/8 fuel line pre-bent reproduction was installed as the main fuel line. Some of the instructional info talks of running rubber lines the full length, I wanted to retain the hard lines where I could.

Fuel tank mod, a “3/8 return fitting needs to be installed, the master kit contained the necessary an6 pass-though, seals, and down tube. Mounted it near the sender mounting for access to it. BTW, I’ve struggled with cheap reproduction senders and sender lock rings in the past, thin metal, inferior quality seals, leading to leaks. DMT is now offering a quality reproduction, thick, lock ring that works. Highly recommend this part.

Start-up, following all the provided instructions, setting the distributor reference as instructed, all paid off with an immediate first fire-up, no issues at all. Checked the base timing, was off by a degree or two, dialed it in. Ready to drive.

Tuning? Still in its self-learning mode currently, I’ve only been tweaking with idle speed and mixture a tad to fine tune idle quality so far. Plan to let allow it to tune it-self, then see where we are at. So far, throttle response is very impressive, every aspect of drivability is everything I was looking for. Happy with it now, can’t imagine it getting much better.

Will post up some more detailed pictures of the install shortly.
 
Last edited:
I've been playing with this very same thing. So many options on Holley systems and questions. I was thinking of a tank mounted pump as I too, heard an external pump is louder than one in tank. What to do, what to do. Looks awesome!...following
 
I have installed a number of EFI systems and am currently doing one on a 69 Ply wagon with a 440 6 pack (Fitech "tripower") and 4 speed. I have done both internal and external systems and will say that the noise many people talk about really isn't an issue.

This looks like a very nice set up and install, I would question the location of the fuel pump however, seems to be a long way from the tank not to mention it eats up some ground clearance. I am in no way "hating" on your work, it is very nice, but from everything I have read and experienced, external EFI pumps are pushers rather than pullers and mounting it that far from the tank seems like it will put some strain on it having to pull fuel from the tank to the pump. That said, if it works for you then awesome! at least it is easy to get to and change if need be. I just made a retro in-tank system for the wagon where in the pump is on the sending unit and goes in the tank.

Again, very nice job and concerting to EFI is worth every penny and second of effort.
 
This looks like a very nice set up and install, I would question the location of the fuel pump however, seems to be a long way from the tank not to mention it eats up some ground clearance. I am in no way "hating" on your work, it is very nice, but from everything I have read and experienced, external EFI pumps are pushers rather than pullers and mounting it that far from the tank seems like it will put some strain on it having to pull fuel from the tank to the pump. That said, if it works for you then awesome! at least it is easy to get to and change if need be. I just made a retro in-tank system for the wagon where in the pump is on the sending unit and goes in the tank.
Thanks, all valid questions, and all considered ahead of time when planning out this install. There are currently limited options available for in-tank pumps with the ’71-74 B-bodies, the modifications necessary, and the apparent quality of the components didn’t impress, same cheap “universal” low volume pumps as was included in the “master” kit. That leaves the external option, closer to the tank means above the diff, and well above the bottom of the tank. The next closer location, under the passenger seat is well below the fuel tank. The 12-600 is a higher capacity pump than likely this engine needs, and is a better built pump, not concerned with it being strained in any way. The initial prime was quick and as mentioned, whisper quiet. Should it ever need servicing, it will be much easier to get at than having to drop the tank for access.

Sound may not be a concern for some, it is for me and this driver. I have had some very noisy and annoying pumps in the past. Ground clearance, not likely to be a problem, the Accurate Exhaust head pipes are lower.


pump clearance.PNG
 
Last edited:
All good, sounds like a solid plan. On my Cuda I am using a Walbro 255 and I located it inside the passenger side wheel well on the frame below tank level. This was the first one I ever did and I was attempting to comply with the instructions which said below tank level no more than approximately 2' from the tank. I built a very robust shield for it and thus far it seems to work well. If I ever went back into it I might do it differently, but I am not sure.

The car I am doing now is a 69 Ply wagon, I built an in tank pump system much like the Holley "reto" system. I used a Aeromotive pump, so we will see how this works out.

IMG_1512.JPG
 
72RRGTX- Did you look into Aeromotive's in tank pump? Thoughts? This is one route I was thinking of doing and have been thinking of the pro's and con's as well. I'd hate to have to drop the tank if the pump went bad
 
72RRGTX- Did you look into Aeromotive's in tank pump? Thoughts? This is one route I was thinking of doing and have been thinking of the pro's and con's as well. I'd hate to have to drop the tank if the pump went bad
Rod,

I did look at the Aeromotive line, better stuff indeed, and expensive. They offer the closest application for a pre-modified in-tank pump replacement fuel tank. #18462, based on the 10A tank for the ’71-April ’72 vapor recovery vent system, vent nipples on the left rear corner. Mine is post April ’72, vent nipples located on the forward upper relief. Another concern about the drop-in style pump/sender units on these Mopar applications, is it would require a hole be cut in the trunk floor to allow room for the cap or plumbing fittings, not ready to do that.

“if”? Don’t you mean when? In my experience, I never knew an electric fuel pump to last forever, and they don’t offer much failure warning normally, especially in-tank versions. Experienced several more modern OE in-tank pump failures, granted only after 100k plus miles, nevertheless, it was always without warning and at the worst times and locations. I may pack a spare 12-600 in the trunk, at least a chance of a possible road-side repair when it fails.
18162-1b.jpg
 
Last edited:
:thumbsup: Thanks for your reply, Doug and value your opinion. Didn't know a hole had to be drilled in the floor for the Aeromotive unit. That itself might be a deal breaker for me. Been looking at and playing with the idea for some time of putting in a Holley system in my car.
 
Looks good. I've been running a Sniper/Hyperspark setup on my Coronet for a while now. I used a Holley port injection setup on my Duster though.
DSC_2882 (Large).JPG
DSC_4078 (Large).JPG
 
I may pack a spare 12-600 in the trunk, at least a chance of a possible road-side repair when it fails.
Nicely installed there. Great to see another Holley Sniper convert. One thing I will suggest however....don't buy another Holley fuel pump. I have had 2 of them #12-890 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-890 and both have crapped themselves very quickly. The first one ran for about 10 miles, then died on me...leaving me stranded on the side of the road. I bought a replacement, and that one lasted about 15 minutes before crapping itself. A very expensive exercise.....managed to get a full refund on the second one only.
I ended up replacing the Holley with a Bosch Inline pump - very similar but totally reliable.

For the non-believers out there, I made this short video after the second one died - this is a dissection of the pump....


There is a small brown plastic castellated nut inside the pump which links the motor shaft to the pump drive. When we opened up the BOTH pumps, this brown drive nut had separated from the shaft. This is what will lead to the pump not pumping. Of course, when we shot the video, we had already seen the drive not running, and had pushed the drive nut back into position. This would only be a temporary fix, as it would eventually fall off it's location.
Holley never responded to my complaint...so I guess the Customer Care doesn't care. I will ever be sucked into buying a Billet anything from Holley ever again.
 
Boy, that sucks Kiwi! I was also looking at Bosch fuel pumps as well. I've been contemplating doing the Sniper convert for a while and just looking at all of my options in doing this. Glad to see that 72 RRGTX did this to his car so this is pushing me to do it.
 
Boy, that sucks Kiwi! I was also looking at Bosch fuel pumps as well. I've been contemplating doing the Sniper convert for a while and just looking at all of my options in doing this. Glad to see that 72 RRGTX did this to his car so this is pushing me to do it.
IMHO, the Holley Sniper is a great unit - mine is the small block version, but the advantages for me are enormous. I don't yet have the skills required to tune carbs like some of you guys, so the Sniper takes all the guess work out of the equation, and has a bucket load of other advantages.
 
We put the Holley Sniper EFI on my sons Dart and he loves it. We put a new fuel tank in it with the in tank pump and use the hyper-spark dist as we have the the Sniper now controlling the timing also. Its working great and the more you work with it the more you learn how much tuning you can do with it. Ron
 
:thumbsup: Thanks for your reply, Doug and value your opinion. Didn't know a hole had to be drilled in the floor for the Aeromotive unit. That itself might be a deal breaker for me. Been looking at and playing with the idea for some time of putting in a Holley system in my car.
I put the Aeromotive Stealth Tank in my 66 Charger, I did not need to cut hole in trunk floor on my application.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top