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Ignition problem 68 RR

68RRHemi

68RRHemi

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Hi,
Having an ignition problem with my 68 RR, recently purchased and is restored. Ran fine when I first got it, became harder and harder to start and run until nothing but sporadic backfiring. Checked all voltages, ballast, coil, distributor, wires, points, cap, fuel delivery, replaced ignition switch, spark plugs (stock nos), pretty much everything with same results. I read about the dreaded bulkhead connector and the red and black wire connection weak point and was wondering if that is where the problem may be lurking. Any helpful suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks.
 
Condensor?
Bad Gas?
It's not that hard to pull apart and inspect the bulkhead connector.
You just need good eyes.
 
Gas good..condenser new. Replaced single
point dist with fresh rebuilt factory dually..same thing. Thanks Don.
 
I want to dive into the bulkhead but would like to hear some input before I do.
 
Are you sure it's not a fuel delivery issue?
 
turbine68rt said:
Are you sure it's not a fuel delivery issue?
Click to expand...
Yes..observed squirts into the carb..tried cold priming with a little gas down into the cylinders. It's getting intermittent sparking. Has to be electrical.
 
Did you put a timing light on it?
 
Don Frelier said:
Did you put a timing light on it?
Click to expand...
Can't..doesnt run. Nothing was touched on the car before and when the problem 1st started. After each step, tried and got the same results. I'm thinking bulkhead connector issues..but not familiar with Mopar types and never had an issue like this with any car before.
 
Last edited:
You can test by putting a jumper to coil+.
If it runs then likely a bulkhead or bad wire.
 
What is the point gap on your duals?
 
Any +12V supply could be right from the battery.
You just can't do it long term because the points will arc more, that's what the ballast resistor does makes them last longer.
During cranking the ballast is bypassed full voltage because it drops while cranking.
Actually it's possible that you aren't getting spark while cranking but possibly in "run" position for the ignition.
Might explain the backfire.
You can check both by taking off the coil wire or a plug wire place about a 1/4" from a good clean ground.
Crank and observe spark (should be blue/white and crisp not yellow and lazy)
Next with key in run jump the starter relay (usually red battery post to yellow wire)
Again observe spark.
 
turbine68rt said:
What is the point gap on your duals?
Click to expand...
Whatever factory specs call for..cant recall right now. .019? Same problem after I replaced it. Problem was there with previous distributor. I'm just gonna through the wiring at the bulkhead.
Dielectric...etc.
 
Don Frelier said:
Any +12V supply could be right from the battery.
You just can't do it long term because the points will arc more, that's what the ballast resistor does makes them last longer.
During cranking the ballast is bypassed full voltage because it drops while cranking.
Actually it's possible that you aren't getting spark while cranking but possibly in "run" position for the ignition.
Might explain the backfire.
You can check both by taking off the coil wire or a plug wire place about a 1/4" from a good clean ground.
Crank and observe spark (should be blue/white and crisp not yellow and lazy)
Next with key in run jump the starter relay (usually red battery post to yellow wire)
Again observe spark.
Click to expand...
Don Frelier said:
Any +12V supply could be right from the battery.
You just can't do it long term because the points will arc more, that's what the ballast resistor does makes them last longer.
During cranking the ballast is bypassed full voltage because it drops while cranking.
Actually it's possible that you aren't getting spark while cranking but possibly in "run" position for the ignition.
Might explain the backfire.
You can check both by taking off the coil wire or a plug wire place about a 1/4" from a good clean ground.
Crank and observe spark (should be blue/white and crisp not yellow and lazy)
Next with key in run jump the starter relay (usually red battery post to yellow wire)
Again observe spark.
Click to expand...
Thanks Don..I will try that.
 
I'm not a pro..but can solve most problems. If worst comes to worst I can have a local shop that works on old cars and specializes in Mopars take a look at it. Thanks guys!!
 
Might do you some good to track down your ground sources, making sure they are clean and tight. Bulkhead shouldn't be a issue unless its like a 50 year old bulkhead or it's been hacked on, if so then you get to have some fun...
Personally I start with the cheap easy stuff then work my way up to the more expensive stuff. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's a good part, lotsa aftermarket components are junk from the get go.
Good luck brother :thumbsup:
 
68Moparmaniac said:
Might do you some good to track down your ground sources, making sure they are clean and tight. Bulkhead shouldn't be a issue unless its like a 50 year old bulkhead or it's been hacked on, if so then you get to have some fun...
Personally I start with the cheap easy stuff then work my way up to the more expensive stuff. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's a good part, lotsa aftermarket components are junk from the get go.
Good luck brother :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Thanks Mr. Maniac, speaking of grounds, where would the ground wire from the ignition switch terminate? Would it have any routing thru the bulkhead connector? The reason I ask after researching I learned that ignition switches often fail and are a common cure. The one installed had no ground terminal and I opted to install an NOS switch that does. Will the switch eventually fail if the car wasn't originally equipped with one without ground? The harness receptacle does have a ground terminal slot but may not be terminated and thus needs to be. On a learning curve with Mopar systems.
 
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