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Stupid exhaust question

pearljam724

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Is there a suggested tool or technique that allows easy exhaust dismantling ? The way the exhaust curls up over the rear axle doesn’t allow for easy removal of the complete exhaust. Allowing it to be easier to bang the hell out of the muffler if you want to replace the mufflers for example. I know this is a dump question. But, is there an easier method of pulling joints apart, other than bang away at the mufflers hoping to separate them ?
 
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Nope lol Use lots of penetrating oil. IF the old style clamps with the rounded U bolt was used, good luck.
 
Sawzall the mufflers off close to the body of the muffler, then cut off the remaining flange of the muffler that’s still on the pipe with a cutoff wheel. Or, if you can handle a sawzall alright, make a cut along the pipe and slide it off. If it’s inside the pipe, use the sawzall to cut a couple cuts into the inner pipe without cutting through the outside wall and pull the inner piece out!
 
The heat wrench... glow the outers red and start twisting and pulling. But like the guys said, if you don't want to save the mufflers just cut them off and then remove the remaining bits with a cutting torch, cut wheel or chisel.
 
I always used to tighten the clamps just enough to keep the pipe from twisting. Sometimes they would come loose. Now I use a good lap band clamp where possible.
 
Sawzall the mufflers off close to the body of the muffler, then cut off the remaining flange of the muffler that’s still on the pipe with a cutoff wheel. Or, if you can handle a sawzall alright, make a cut along the pipe and slide it off. If it’s inside the pipe, use the sawzall to cut a couple cuts into the inner pipe without cutting through the outside wall and pull the inner piece out!
That’s probably the easiest way. Problem is, the mufflers are too close to the floor board to use a sawsall. Plus, I have chambered mufflers. Those are stout. Maybe, cut away at the inlet and outlets of the muffler to allow expansion. But, I’m not going to be able to take a 4 inch cut off wheel to the outlets in the direction of the pipes as there isn’t enough room for a 4 inch disk and I don’t want to cut the pipes themselves as they are in excellent condition. I don’t want to deal with bending new pipes, etc.
 
Drop the headpipes and hangars and lower the hole assembly
 
The heat wrench... glow the outers red and start twisting and pulling. But like the guys said, if you don't want to save the mufflers just cut them off and then remove the remaining bits with a cutting torch, cut wheel or chisel.
Yeah, I was thinking of heating the inlet/outlet then use a large pipe wrench to twist the joints. Then, maybe install a u- bolt clamp several inches away and bang the hell out of the temporary u-bolt clamp with a small 5 pound sledge.
 
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Drop the headpipes and hangars and lower the hole assembly
I’ll have to do that as it will allow me a few more inches to cut at the muffler. With the axle bend in the pipe. That bend doesn’t allow the rear to drop a whole lot and my mufflers are pretty close to the rear of the car. Just in front of the axle. But, it should be enough. I have a few ideas. Looking for suggestions, though.
 
I unbolted my headpipes at the manifolds, unbolted the muffler hangers, and dropped it all down. Then sliced my old tailpipes and replaced them. Easy.
 
When you reassemble, generously coat the inside of the mufflers with antisieze. If you buy the band clamps the pipes won't crush either.
Mike
 
That’s probably the easiest way. Problem is, the mufflers are too close to the floor board to use a sawsall. Plus, I have chambered mufflers. Those are stout. Maybe, cut away at the inlet and outlets of the muffler to allow expansion. But, I’m not going to be able to take a 4 inch cut off wheel to the outlets in the direction of the pipes as there isn’t enough room for a 4 inch disk and I don’t want to cut the pipes themselves as they are in excellent condition. I don’t want to deal with bending new pipes, etc.
I found that a Dremel with a bonded 1 1/4 inch cutoff wheel can work wonders to slice outer pipes laterally so you can get some penetrating oil and chisel to it, they give up pretty easily. As recommended above, Anti-seize the joint when you assemble is great advice.
 
I usually did the chisel & hammer method with some heat to remove mufflers, a lot of elbow grease and scraped fingers with systems having the U-clamps. After cutting the slot every inch or so inserted a large screw driver to separate the pipe. Not the best or easiest; but did the job in the garage or driveway. I removed my couple hundred mile old 2" exhaust system during poly motor rebuild going to headers and 3" by cutting the pipes ahead of the axle and dropping from the manifolds keeping the system intact able to be re-welded with a sleeve thinking of possibly of reusing someday. As it is I'm going to sell it when I get around to it. In any case, having the nifty tools to do this as posted is what I'd a liked to have back when...

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I always used to tighten the clamps just enough to keep the pipe from twisting. Sometimes they would come loose. Now I use a good lap band clamp where possible.
I'm still using the danged u-bolt type clamps but do the same as you in tightening them lightly.
 
I'm still using the danged u-bolt type clamps but do the same as you in tightening them lightly.
Mine has U bolts too. My exhaust hangers are welded to them in front of axle. I was hoping to save these mufflers just in case I don’t like the sound of the new ones. I have chambered mufflers. I like the sound. But, they create a lot of drone noise under acceleration at times. I want a good sounding muffler that won’t drown out the cam loping sound at idle. Without the drone vibrations under throttle at times.
 
When you reassemble, generously coat the inside of the mufflers with antisieze. If you buy the band clamps the pipes won't crush either.
Mike
I concur....anti-sieze works wonders when assembling the system. I use either the Permatex copper (good for 1800° F) or Permatex nickel (good for 2200° F). These materials are available at your favorite auto parts stores or on line. You can also use it on the U-glamp and hangar bolts. Even after a couple of years, after removing the clamps the pipes will twist apart (usually) but the old tried and true Sawzall method or whiz wheel will also work...
BOB RENTON
 
I'm going to build my next system with v-band clamps to hopefully avoid these hassles in the future.
 
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