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Pcv question. How to check?

Sonny

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I read that you can check your pcv system by removing the valve cover air filter and inserting a vacuum gauge (I used electrical tape for a good seal). Should get 3-5 inches after 10 seconds the article said. I’m getting zero. There is good suction at the pcv valve on my finger. The pcv is attached to a port on my intake. I also have continuous oil pan leaks. What would cause no vacuum on the opposite valve cover? I have good steady 16” of vacuum at idle.
 
I read that you can check your pcv system by removing the valve cover air filter and inserting a vacuum gauge (I used electrical tape for a good seal). Should get 3-5 inches after 10 seconds the article said. I’m getting zero. There is good suction at the pcv valve on my finger. The pcv is attached to a port on my intake. I also have continuous oil pan leaks. What would cause no vacuum on the opposite valve cover? I have good steady 16” of vacuum at idle.
Also have Mopar cast aluminum valve covers.
 
Should be able to suck air through it, but not blow. All it is is a check valve. All I have ever done to check one on an old car for 40+ years
 
I usually just give it a shake. If you feel/hear it rattle it's operational.
Right but it’s not sucking any air in on the other valve cover?
 
I read that you can check your pcv system by removing the valve cover air filter and inserting a vacuum gauge (I used electrical tape for a good seal). Should get 3-5 inches after 10 seconds the article said. I’m getting zero. There is good suction at the pcv valve on my finger. The pcv is attached to a port on my intake. I also have continuous oil pan leaks. What would cause no vacuum on the opposite valve cover? I have good steady 16” of vacuum at idle.
It actually wasn’t an article it was in my vacuum gauge instructions.
 
I'd imagine if there was a constant vacuum (negative pressure) present in the entirety
of the crankcase/associated areas of an engine, the dang oil pan would start collapsing
eventually. :)
You've got a breather in one valve cover (stock) and the PCV in the other.
Air in, air out....
 
I'd imagine if there was a constant vacuum (negative pressure) present in the entirety
of the crankcase/associated areas of an engine, the dang oil pan would start collapsing
eventually. :)
You've got a breather in one valve cover (stock) and the PCV in the other.
Air in, air out....
yes I do. But I can’t feel or measure any air being pulled in on the cover opposite the pcv.
 
yes I do. But I can’t feel or measure any air being pulled in on the cover opposite the pcv.
It being at the extreme opposite end of the source of suction (the PCV valve), I reckon it might not feel
like much is being drawn over in the other cover - certainly not enough to suck your hand in or anything.
Lots of air volume between the two points in that loop, after all - not to mention, the breather is surely
going to be able to allow more air in than the PCV will ever want to draw out.

If it matters to you that much to see some evidence of airflow, you could always light up a cigarette and blow
some smoke at the breather to see if any of it gets drawn in. :)
How much vacuum does your engine develop at idle, anyways? That's where the PCV derives its' vacuum source,
of course - the intake.
It's entirely possible that all the vacuum generated by the little PCV valve/hose is being dissipated just with
"atmospheric" air volumes in the rest of the engine before it even factors in at the other valve cover.
 
yes I do. But I can’t feel or measure any air being pulled in on the cover opposite the pcv.


then you have a air leak at the valley pan or oil cap or some where in the crank case . take some smoke and blow in one valve cover hole and see where the smoke comes out.
 
The only ways air can enter the engine is through gasket leaks or ring blow by. You could do a leak down test to check the ring seal if you can beg/borrow/steal a tester.
Mike
 
take a small piece of paper it should suck to the breather hose and hold it until you turn engine off or remove p.c.v. valve.
 
You're not getting any oil being pushed out of the breather filter, correct?
 
If you have any oil largish leaks you probably will not see any vacuum on your gauge.
To get a reading on your gauge you need to have enough of a "seal" to get a reading if you follow me. Think about the engine like a sealed box.
If there is suck on the end of the valve that is all you can do.
 
If you have continuous oil pan leaks is there a chance a small amount of air could be drawn in through the pan seal first, reducing the amount that would otherwise be drawn in from the vc breather?
 
The test with a piece of paper over the hole of the breather shows it very clear if there is a suction or "pressure" from blow-by.

To test if you have any leaks to atmosphere or vacuum leaks on the valley pan gasket, you could do the following test:

-Disconnect and blank off the PCV hose tail with something. (also block the other side of the hose to the intake otherwise it will cause a massive vacuum leak)
-Remove the breather from the valve cover.
-Install the vacuum gauge and hose on the oil dipstick making sure it seals properly.

Now, when the engine is running at idle block the breather hole with your hand and observe the pressure on the gauge.
It should come up slowly, do not exceed 3 PSI though.
By just releasing your hand the pressure relieves instantly and no worries.

If it builds up pressure it proves you don't have any excessive leaks from your crankcase out of the engine and/or a leak to the intake system through the valley pan gasket.
If there is no pressure build up it means the blow-by is able to escape the crankcase elsewhere, either to atmosphere or a leaking valley pan gasket to the intake.
If the pressure comes up really fast and high it means there is a lot of blow-by from the piston rings.

I recently tested this on my car where i had to keep my hand on the breather hole around 6-7 seconds i believe to reach 3 PSI.


A PCV valve actually several functions has 2 vacuum stages:

1) when there is a high vacuum scenario like at idle and cruising speeds the check valve in the PCV is pulled up fully against its seat inside the housing.
When it is in that position it causes a restriction in air flow, this is to prevent your engine pulling too much air at idle from the PCV and cause a lean mixture.
2) The other is the WOT mode, where the flow through the PCV is at maximum due to the low vacuum.
In this stage the check valve is in a floating condition and allows maximum air flow through the valve.
This is to get rid of all the blow-by in the engine crankcase during that high power demand as the cylinder pressure is high.
3) Another function is that it acts as a check valve in case of a back fire in the intake.

So, when checking vacuum build up at idle you are searching for it at the time of the least amount of vacuum being pulled from the crankcase.


The pcv is attached to a port on my intake.

I am not sure but i believe you hooked up the PCV hose to the intake itself?
I would recommend to install it on a manifold vacuum port on the carb itself, this spreads out the oil mist/fumes/low oxygen content gasses over all cylinders while it is mixed with the fresh air/fuel charge.
Now 1 or 2 cylinders (depends on what intake you have) need to deal with that crap and will run a different A/F ratio then the others. Plus the spark plugs will likely be oily compared to the rest.

If the blow-by equals or exceeds the vacuum at the PCV valve, you won't.

This is also a fact that you need to consider, but with the above test you can find out if there is a lot of blow-by.

Edit: You may consider cleaning the PCV valve with blasting a shot of carb cleaner and compressed air after it to get rid of any sludge/deposits inside, but blow from the valve cover connection to the hose tail end...the other way it will just close and blow the carb cleaner in your face/eyes.
Or just try another PCV valve.
 
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