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Caster, Camber and alignment options.

Was going to make some washers for my car years ago but tore my car apart and forgot about doing them. But, I was able to get plenty of neg cam as it was so it wasn't important. As for the added caster, maybe a little more but some see much if any. You could also get the offset upper bushings for more caster.
 
The ACE bolts I got were very high quality and true cadmium plated.
 
Where are you wanting to set the camber at? I had mine set at -1* and my tires wore down on the inside in only a few thousand miles...
My red car is at 3/4 degree negative but only 1/8" toe in. It is the toe setting that will chew tires faster than camber.
 
If u need lots more neg camber u can install A body lower arms. Their a 1/2 in longer. Kim
Holeee crap...do you know how much negative camber that would get you ? Probably 10 degrees !
 
With stock parts on my 66 Belvedere you could see the negative camber standing 30-40 feet in front of the car. IIRC, I also ran with 1/8+ toe in but not much more. The tires wore just fine and mileage was still good....at least for a /6 pos :D The car was also lowered at least 1" from stock all around. It did handle pretty dayam good for an old car and it surprised more (me included) than a couple of the hot rod fart can guys in the freeway interchanges but most of those guy are afraid to hit 90 going into any curve lol
 
So I did this job yesterday afternoon, took about 2.5 hrs to do both sides including getting all the right sockets together, jacking up the car and putting everything away again. I used 3mm thick (just under 1/8") high tensile washers from the local nut and bolt shop. $3 for all 4. I haven't got any before and after photos yet but the wheels visually look better and on my backyard camber gauge (builder's level held flat against the centre cap) the bubble is now in the middle instead of being halfway over the other side. Only one drama - when torquing up one of the nuts on the driver's side knuckle, I felt the dreaded "stripped thread" starting. It was pretty tight and there's a cotter pin in there but I'm going to have to replace it as it's a critical component, safety wise. Hopefully it's the nut threads and not the bolt, otherwise I'll have to take the rotor off again...
 
Holeee crap...do you know how much negative camber that would get you ? Probably 10 degrees !
2 degrees on my car. Ask me how I know.
(adjusting bolts all the way out)
 
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Not really, but the alignment guy called me over to the rack and pointed out that he had the bolts all the way out and still had that reading. Told me that the uppers were too short or the lowers too long. Then I found out I had A body lca’s.
 
I recall that a member here posted about some alignment problem and put up some pictures. They too had A body LCAs in a B body.
 
Ha...Seriously, was that you ??
 
Yep. It seems like a really long time ago. Still have the a body arms. (Not on car anymore)
 
Hmmm...Easy enough thing to do if the parts get mixed up. Imagine how bad an A body would be with B body arms!
 
Man, some can't get close to 2 degrees with their B cars.....but never was a problem with my 66. Got enough to where it was easily noticeable just looking at it from 30 feet away.
 
I would think geometrically those washers should allow for more camber adjustment without loosing any caster adjustment. Since that relationship goes hand in hand.
Just my $0.02
 
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