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Anybody else have steering link hitting oil pan?

If the sump is not leaking oil I would avoid hammering it. It is only going to be a very tiny problem in car park or a 3 point turn.
The amount of times it would hit are going to be few and far between.
 
I got talked into using this Milodon 31580 Road/Race 7 quart pan on my 499 build. Full turn to the right bumps the corner of the pan. Don't think I want to dent in the pan because I don't know where the baffling is. Should a guy worry about it?

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That is why you should take pictures of your parts before you put them together. Then you'll know what you have and if you can modify it or not.
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I would like to just smack it a few times with a hammer. Don't think it would take much, but like I said I am not sure where all the baffles are inside.

As AndyF said, pics are worth it, never know what will come up later on that a couple photos might help with. Here's a couple more with some additional detail for you. Hope they help out!
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Buy a longer pitman arm and steering knuckle from pst. It is supposed to give you a little faster steering response also.
 
That is why you should take pictures of your parts before you put them together. Then you'll know what you have and if you can modify it or not.
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Problem is that I am not the one who bought it and put it together. Brian @ IMM Engines out in California is the one who talked me into using this overpriced pan and built the engine. One of the factory welds also leaks. I do know that I will never use another one of these things.
 
Buy a longer pitman arm and steering knuckle from pst. It is supposed to give you a little faster steering response also.
This idler arm is from PST, but just the standard version. Are you talking about the fast ratio style? Don't those interfere with headers?
 
Damn, that's a pretty oil pan!
Mike
It would be prettier if I didn't have to slobber JB Weld on the leaking weld around the bung and if it cleared the steering link.
 
I'm not sure how much the C-link is hitting the pan, or is it locking the steering from moving completely and jamming it ? If it is just "grazing" the pan, could you just put some relief in the C-L by grinding a bit out ? I'm not saying to take a 1/4" out, but maybe you could gain enough clearance there, without weakening the C-L...
 
Definitely don't think a guy should be hammering on this pan after seeing whats inside....

I tend to agree with you on that, its pretty well braced from all directions on the inside.

And FWIW, I also got talked into this pan and I'm not completely happy with it either. Mine doesn't leak as yours does, but I'm not real comfortable with the decreased ground clearance of the pan.
 
Brother, a new (longer) pitman arm worked for me
This idler arm is from PST, but just the standard version. Are you talking about the fast ratio style? Don't those interfere with headers?
. My Charger had the same issue.
 
While I don't have anything constructive to add that already hasn't said, I'm following along to see how it turns out.
While this is a serious pain in the @ss problem, there are some pretty hilarious comments. I love this place.

Damn, that's a pretty oil pan!

It would be prettier if I didn't have to slobber JB Weld on the leaking weld around the bung and if it cleared the steering link.
 
I'd replace the pan. Decreased steering range on these land yachts, banging on the pan, or grinding on suspension components is unacceptable to me...
 
So you guys tell me if this is to "redneck". I can't find any tall 9/16 fine thread tall nuts. I put a thin washer and then a castle nut that I have on the end of the strut rod. With the dent that was already in the pan, I now have a tad of clearance. Probably 2.5 to 3 threads are into the nut. Think I should put a bit of loctite on and run it? Or is it a stupid idea?

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I'd replace the pan.
Like I stated above, I will never buy another one of these overpriced pos. But since it was like $450-$475 I just can't bring myself to ripping it off and throwing it in the scrap pile.
I did call Milodon previously and was told they would fix the leak for no charge. But I still have to take it off, ruin the gaskets, and send it to them.
 
Brother, a new (longer) pitman arm worked for me

. My Charger had the same issue.
Do you happen to remember which idler arm exactly. This one is new from PST.
 
This idler arm is from PST, but just the standard version. Are you talking about the fast ratio style? Don't those interfere with headers?

I bought the PST fast ratio pitman arm and idler arm and am running Dougs D452's without any clearance issues. I'll shoot some pictures tonight and post them.
 
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