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axle problem

RSZ28

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Having a problem with the installation of my axles. Pulled axles and was going to install new gears and rear disc brakes. Installed green bearings and mocked axles in empty housing to make brackets for brake lines and fit rear discs. Axles installed with no problems. After installing new gears, I replaced differential and the axles will go in, but not all the way, they are a 1/4" too short on both sides. They mesh with gears and will turn the yoke. I tried a rubber mallet, but axle will not move any further. The buttons inside the housing were removed, so I know those aren't the problem. Would the rubber O ring on the green bearings hold them from going all the way in? I'm going to set them outside tonight, because it is going to be freezing here to see if they will contract enough to try and fit them. Any other ideas? Thanks
 
they should go in unless you changed something,I also did the green bearings and used a different pumpkin and all went together. Same pumpkin?
 
If you had the SG apart and side gears splines aren't lined up you won't get the axles in. I had that happen on one side, had to make a rig to turn axle and try to slide axle in. Yoke has to be held while turning axle. Used a piece of tape to see if axle was in all the way. It was turn axle a little and push it in, got it on 2nd try.
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If that is the problem, it may not be that. It was my first post on FBBO.
 
Fran
Both of my axles will go in and turn yoke, but will not go in all the way. It doesn't matter if I just put either side in or both sides, same problem. Are you saying that the side gear splines aren't lined up correctly? Can I use your method with the differential in the housing or do I have to remove the differential? Thanks
 
If you have a clutch style posi (oh snap! Sure grip!) you have to align all the clutches and side gears splines during assy of the limited slip unit (hah! See what I did there!) You either have to have stub axles, or the actual axles to line everything up during final bolt-together. Otherwise spline miss-alignment won't let the axles in all the way.
You need to do as Fran did, overcome the internal clutch friction with leverage to align the splines while pushing in the axles, .....or pull the whole thing apart and re-do. I would make whoever re-did the Sure grip fix it.
 
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As I said this MAYBE your problem. Your axles could be in Side Gear Retainer but the Side Gear splines may not be lined up with the Side Gear Retainer splines. You only need a 3/4 foot lever to turn axle in setup like mine, didn't known how much force was needed to turn side gear retainer. This may not be your problem, I'd wait for any ideas I missed.
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You either have to have stub axles, or the actual axles to line everything up during final bolt-together. Otherwise spline miss-alignment won't let the axles in all the way.

Same on the cone LSD.

If it helps, a cone set from a "489", one turned up one down. If one or both "sets" of splines on either side are not lined up, the axles won't slide into the inner geared spline.......
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You'd need third member on bench to see if splines aren't lined up. I had to be careful not to damage wheel studs. If you have a junk axle large pipe wrench on JUNK axle would work. Put a piece of tape on axle 1/4" or so from adjuster to see that axle went in.
 
I had the same problem with green bearings from Cass three years ago. The axles would not push in the last 1/4". I took the orings off to see if they slid in all the way...they did. Cass believed it was air trapped as the oring seals the housing ends tight. I think the oring is just a very tight seal and though to push or tap in all the way. I just bolted it up criss-crossing slowly until snug and then torqued it up. Drove it for a few years...no issues.
Had the exact same issue again this year with the narrower 63 rear-end I installed with new axles and disc brakes. I just bolted it up as before and drives fine.
 
Cass believed it was air trapped as the oring seals the housing ends tight.

I experienced this with the O-ring. I might have use just a bit too much grease. It will create pressure between the axle seal and O-ring.

If the OP only has a 1/4" to go, would the splines be the problem? I'm thinking if you made it that far the splines in the cup and clutch housing would be lined up.

Is this the same housing that the axels were in originally? What year housing are you working on?

And you said you are changing to a disk set up. What's different behind the bearing retainer flange if any than when it was a backing plate/drum setup? Is your bearing passing through this piece/bracket?
 
I also thought that if they went in with only 1/4" to go that everything would be lined up. Am I wrong to assume this? The housing is a 65, and there is a spacer plate that makes up the difference for the backing plate of the drum plate and the bearing does pass through it.
 
And you said you are changing to a disk set up. What's different behind the bearing retainer flange if any than when it was a backing plate/drum setup? Is your bearing passing through this piece/bracket?

This is the bracket from Dr Diff., which goes in between on longer studs.
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Removed O ring like Glenwood did, but axle still would not go it. It must be the sure grip splines need to be aligned. I'm just going to remove center section and check for alignment.
 
You might be able to see if they are misaligned looking in the axle tube with a high intensity light and a good set of eyes. You could apply some grease on the end of the axle and axle splines, insert then remove to look for witness marks.

These are the same axels you had in there before, just changed to green bearings?
 
Wonder if you could align splines with out removing center section? If locked yoke so it doesn't turn. Turn axle slowly with someone pushing axle in to housing.
 
I'm going to get my son and brother-in-law over this weekend to help with trying to get axles in using pry bar method to align sc clutches. If not successful, can I just loosen sc bolts and will I need to reset backlash or do I have to redo complete setup?
 
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