I did a search on their website and it states that the fast ratio doesn't fit the B bodies. You got it to work though?
Anybody else have steering link hitting oil pan?
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I'm a redneck and that seems a little too redneck. I typically don't like to mess with the security on front end parts. Failure can be catastrophic.
Despite how well that pan is built, can't you get in there with a punch or something and place a couple of precise dents to give you a quarter inch or so?
dsd1967
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I didn’t see that when I bought the parts about 5 years ago. Here’s some pictures without the torsion bars in. I have all kinds of clearance between the pan and drag link and headers. It’s a morose 7 quart pan flared out at the bottom but not the same pan as yours. It is a little tighter on the passenger side but still plenty of clearance. I took one picture straight up and the edge of the idler is at the edge of the pan. The pan bolt in the picture is the third from the back.
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Which headers are those? They clear well.
Next time you have your car up in the air could you do me a favor and measure the center to center of both the pitman and idler arms?
dsd1967
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Dougs D452 headers RB motor. Everything cleared well until I tried to install the passenger side torsion bar. I did a little research and that seems to be a common problem. Drivers side cleared everything including the mini starter
These must be the ones you have? https://p-s-t.com/i-23158198-fast-r...l#!year=1969||make=PLYMOUTH||model=ROADRUNNER
Don't know what I did wrong the other day when I punched it in on their website. Now is says that it does fit a B-body. But 12:1 ratio, and I have manual steering. Got to think that would be a bugger to turn at slow speeds?
Daves69
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Lol, can you say "hand over hand" steering?
Outside the box, what if...…. you relocate the idler mount bolt hole 1/8"-1/4" further out and shim the steering box an even amount?
dsd1967
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Those are the ones....I went through my e-mail files and found I ordered the STLKMOPFR kit from PST which included the tie rod ends, the heavy duty sleeves and the fast ratio arms. I'm going to be in the same boat with manual steering.....it's not on the ground on all 4 feet yet....so I don't know how it will act. I'll just avoid parallel parking...once in motion the manual steering cars seem to turn fairly decent.
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Joel,
What if you just get a new pan, send the old one back to moroso to get fixed and sell it once it comes back. I know it sucks and it's bullshit, but you'll save yerself a lot of aggravation plus you will know that the front end is safe.
What if you just get a new pan, send the old one back to moroso to get fixed and sell it once it comes back. I know it sucks and it's bullshit, but you'll save yerself a lot of aggravation plus you will know that the front end is safe.
Loosen up the engine and transmission mounts and see if shifting the motor around a bit helps, then lock everything back down. There's usually some wiggle room. I have the factory-replacement style milodon in my car, last time I R&R'd the engine, the link was touching the bottom of the pan's rear surface afterwards....before, it at least had a small amount (like 1/4"-3/8" small!) of clearance. I also noticed the header had previously been close enough to the pass. side fenderwell that it left a small rubbed spot(it wasn't touching at rest, but must have been too close with the engine and body moving during driving). Jockeyed it around and got clearance everywhere it was needed..
dsd1967
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I
I thought of that already, but really don't want to mess with it now since driving season has finally arrived. Also if I change pans, the pickup would probably need replacing as well?
How long till you get that rig on the road? I'm curious how hard it will be to steer.
Just got done spending 3 hours taking out the motor mounts and shifting the drivetrain as far forward as possible. I'm guessing I got another 3/16" of an inch. Transmission mount holes are now to the end of their adjustment. I wouldn't want to go anymore because of the fan to radiator clearance is getting tight also. Now when I turn full right and with the dent that was already in the pan, I have about 1/32" gap. Without the dent, it would still be kissing the pan. I am going to call it good and remember to never buy another one of those pans.
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Good luck, keep an eye on it. 1/32" ain't much.
Big difference as mine are 5 1/4" c to c.
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Yep, prob would need a new one. Knowing you, you could probably have that pan out and re-installed in a couple of hours.
At any rate, glad you got at least a RCH of clearance now. Just keep yer eye on it.
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