8.75 sealed axle bearing question

Bobby Sixkiller · May 16, 2020

Ok so an 8 3/4 with the sealed bearings. Does the piece inside the carrier. Between the spiders that pushes one axle into the other for the factory adjustment need to come out if the sealed axle bearings are used? I’m hearing a noise and probably need to pull it all out anyway. Just curious. Or should I go back to factory adjustable axle bearings ?

69Bee · May 16, 2020

If you referring to "Green" axle bearings, and with a sure grip differential, then yes, you normally need to remove the thrust buttons in the center thrust block.

Bobby Sixkiller · May 16, 2020

Yes that’s what I meant. I thought so. Previous owner put the green bearings in and never dropped the pumpkin. Thank you.

RT6PK · May 16, 2020

I am having a similar problem. How do I get the button out? Do I have to pull the center section?

halfafish · May 16, 2020

RT6PK said:
How do I get the button out?

I had this situation in a SG unit recently. I took the whole pumpkin to the drive train shop to get checked out, the guy there showed me how to get it out. Looking down where the axle would enter, there's a small triangle in the button. He said take a small drift, tap it into the center of the triangle, and the other side of the button would fall out. Then reverse the procedure to get the first side out. I will be trying this next week as I assemble the 8-3/4.

And yes, you would have to pull the pumpkin. I can't see how you could do this all the way down the axle tube. The triangle is real tiny.

khryslerkid · May 16, 2020

Here's a picture of the buttons disassembled. (Pay no attention to the magnet)

This is a picture looking inside the differential. (Button is removed)

This is what you are looking at, the spider gear bar.

Cranky · May 16, 2020

The above posts are for the clutch or Powr Lok unit. If you have the Auburn or cone type, you have to take the unit apart to get it out but, if it's not pressing on the axles, it won't fall out because the cross pin traps it in place.

Bobby Sixkiller · May 20, 2020

Well I pulled the third member out. It was the cone type and sure enough still had the button in the middle. Pulled it apart and removed it. Got it all back together. I’ll go drive it tomorrow after work. The carrier bearings looked great and the pinion felt perfect. No slack. Easy to turn. No rough spot. I’m hoping that fixes my noise. It only made noise around 20 to 30 on coast. Wast quite like a normal rear end noise.

Cranky · May 21, 2020

Bobby Sixkiller said:
Well I pulled the third member out. It was the cone type and sure enough still had the button in the middle. Pulled it apart and removed it. Got it all back together. I’ll go drive it tomorrow after work. The carrier bearings looked great and the pinion felt perfect. No slack. Easy to turn. No rough spot. I’m hoping that fixes my noise. It only made noise around 20 to 30 on coast. Wast quite like a normal rear end noise.

Did you by any chance check the clearance on the cone faces?

Bobby Sixkiller · May 22, 2020

Did you by any chance check the clearance on the cone faces?

I didn’t. I set the ring gear to pinion back to.002 to .0025 and put it back in. Noise is gone. All better now. I’m pleased with my results.

Cranky · May 22, 2020

Bobby Sixkiller said:
I didn’t. I set the ring gear to pinion back to.002 to .0025 and put it back in. Noise is gone. All better now. I’m pleased with my results.

You set the back lash at that measurement? That's kinda tight......

Bobby Sixkiller · May 22, 2020

It’s a bit tight but no noises. I think some old Dana’s were set at .002. I think it’s ok. Drove it 20 miles today with no noise whatsoever. Didn’t seem to get hot.

Bobby Sixkiller · May 22, 2020

Now that I think about it I think.006 is factory setting on 8.75

Paul Secoy · May 23, 2020

I believe factory lash is 6 to 10 thousandths of an inch.

And with the button style in post #6, you can weld a punch to a steel rod and knock them out with the pumpkin in place if you have to. Especially the night before you are going racing and you just found out why your axles wont go in.

8.75 sealed axle bearing question

Bobby Sixkiller

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69Bee

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Bobby Sixkiller

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RT6PK

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halfafish

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khryslerkid

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Cranky

Banned Henchman #27

Bobby Sixkiller

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Cranky

Banned Henchman #27

Bobby Sixkiller

Well-Known Member

Cranky

Banned Henchman #27

Bobby Sixkiller

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Bobby Sixkiller

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Paul Secoy

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