• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - Detroit Iron

Detroit Iron

Well-Known Member
Local time
2:34 PM
Joined
Jul 30, 2008
Messages
436
Reaction score
215
Location
Bay Area - California
I'm in the Bay Area of California and have owned this car since 2000. The car is from Washington state. I believe it was garage kept because it's pretty darn rust free; and that is judging by California standards! I've rebuilt and "upgraded" everything mechanical on this car, so it's a strong runner and used as a daily driver.

The reason for my thread isn't necessarily to document the complete project, but to document and solicit input on the paint and body work. Paint and body work is not something I have a lot of experience with, so I'm learning with this car and input is welcome and encouraged.

I'm starting the thread with photos of the car as it was when I got it, then touching on some of the mechanical projects and then getting in to where I am now with the paint and body.

Summary of what's been done to the car:

Engine – The original 383 has been rebuilt. Keith Black KB162-30 Hypereutectic pistons, Lunati 60300 cam (very mild) and lifters, Cloyes true roller timing chain. Edelbrock E-street heads, aluminum water pump, aluminum water pump housing, vintage Edelbrock DP4B intake manifold, Carter 4966 carburetor, Mopar Performance electronic ignition with Jacobs coil.

Electrical
– 100 amp Tuf Stuff Alternator, dual field restoration wiring harness and Interstate battery.

Exhaust – OEM HP exhaust manifolds, TTI 2 ½” exhaust with Thrush turbo mufflers.

Transmission
– 1967 HP 727 (from ’67 GTX) rebuilt with a later model stock valve body and part throttle kick-down (PTK) and Gil Younger shift kit, TCI Streetfighter torque convertor, Denny’s driveshaft. The transmission downshifts on it's own and is a great performer.

Rearend – The tapered axles were replaced with stock 1969 units. Center section is currently a 1969 741 case with 2:94 gears. I have the original 1964 Sure Grip with 3:23 gears that can go with the car if you prefer those over the 2:94 set.

Brakes, Wheels and Suspension – Strange Engineering master cylinder, stock Mopar 11” disc brakes 2 ½” wide rear drums, 15”x8” steel wheels, Mickey Thompson 255/60/15 tires, Moog suspension with urethane bushings and KYB shocks. 1969 K-member (for improved sway bar design) with Addco sway bar. Hemi torsion bars, HD leaf springs and HD shackles from Just Suspension.

Rear Quarter.jpg View attachment 954174 New Suspension 7-2003.JPG IMG_0222.JPG IMG_1310.JPG IMG_1688.JPG IMG_1704.JPG IMG_1719.JPG Burnout.jpg
 
I'm using a $50 paint gun that I bought from Summit. As of now I'm just spraying the door jambs, under side of the trunk etc., so this gun is fine. I may upgrade soon.

Obviously I'm changing the color of the car from white to black. When I painted the wheels and engine compartment; I had the correct 1964 Formal Black mixed and I paid a fortune for it. I recently purchased Summit Jet Black and can not see a difference other than the price. And... because I'm a beginner, I went with single stage.

IMG_2257.JPG IMG_2258.JPG
 
Nice ride your doing great. Keep it up can't wait to see it finished.
 
The First 64' I ever saw was just like the one in the picture it is for sale in the Detroit area for close to 17K. When I was looking for a car I couldn't find one in my price range. Always was impressed of its design over all other b-bodys.

1579916852.jpg
 
Your ride starting to look like mine. Haha
 
The car had been repainted at some point, so I'm taking that paint off with a DA. I still have to spray the primer on the front fenders and cowl. The rest of the car is primed and some of it block sanded.

IMG_2309.JPG IMG_2310.JPG IMG_2311.JPG
 
Last edited:
Detroit iron, like the red interior with black exterior. Nice color combo.
 
The fenders have their first coat of primer.

IMG_2314.JPG IMG_2315.JPG IMG_2316.JPG IMG_2317.JPG
I put a second coat on the hood, and did some body work to the driver door. This is the only area that needs body work. This car is really straight with very little rust. The only reason the driver door needs work is because my father (RIP) backed in to it 11 years ago. Since he's gone now, I was tempted to be weird and not fix it.
IMG_2312.JPG IMG_2313.JPG
 
Looking good my friend. That ride looks rock solid.
 
So I decided to go with the correct shade of black instead of the generic Summit paint. Bearman from this forum assisted me with getting the paint. Not easy to do in California.... anyhow. Today I repainted the edges of the doors and the jambs. If the weather is right, I may paint the roof tomorrow.

IMG_20200702_134340.jpg IMG_20200702_134350.jpg IMG_20200702_140522.jpg
 
Good luck it's looking good. Hope to see the rest of it soon
 
As you found out, solvent based paint can be fun to find. I think the closest to me to get it is Watsonville.
 
I searched high and low for this paint. I was able to find it outside of Santa Clara county, but the California smog Nazis add their piece to the price and.... it goes like this.

Price per gallon in California (Monterey county) $567
Price per gallon in Arizona $219
 
You can get it for a price. Good thing I have a friend in Vegas when the time comes for me. Some places have stuff on hand but if its a non stocked item and if they order it, you have to buy all of what they ordered. Like if you only want one can, you buy the whole case.
 
Now that I'm back from vacation, I am able to make progress on the paint job. I got a good application on the roof. There is very little orange peel, which I will be able to color sand out.

IMG_20200723_121445.jpg
IMG_20200723_134601.jpg IMG_20200723_134611.jpg
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top