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Cranks but won't start

diesel_lv

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Fresh rebuild, 383 stroked to 496. Installed Fitech FI and set initial startup parameters. Has Comp cams XR280HR hydraulic roller cam. I'm doing this by myself so I can't see if there is actually fuel shooting in when the engine cranks. Installed the brass/bronze intermediate shaft, slot facing parallel with crank while new harmonic dampener is at 0 degrees and number 1 at TDC. Put distributor in and made sure it had room to advance and retard from zero degrees and marked on the distributor itself exactly where number one is on the cap. Hand cranked engine until it was at 14 degrees advance and turned distributor so the line would line up with the rotor. Snugged it down and installed the cap. Cranked the engine and got loud bang from exhaust. Tried advancing and retarding and would get smooth crank but no start, bang from exhaust or carb fart. Thought it might be 180 out. Marked the distributor body exactly 180 from the other mark and pulled distributor, turned rotor to point at new mark and reinstalled. Hand cranked engine to 14 degrees advance again and made sure distributor mark and rotor lined up. Cranked engine and got more of the same, crank smooth but no start, loud bang from exhaust, and carb farts. I am at a loss. I am using a DUI tri-power HEI distributor. I'm assuming I'm getting spark due to the exhaust bang and carb farts. I've got air, and I'm assuming I'm getting fuel due to the bang and carb farts. Any help/insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
I'll go first to the obvious. Is your cam installed correctly ?
I certainly hope so. I didn't degree it, but installed the timing gears with the dots where they were supposed to be. I didn't add any advance or retard to it while installing. Rotated crank until #1 was at TDC then installed gear without chain. Installed cam and put gear on it and aligned the dots. Then pulled gears and installed them with the chain. Does that sound correct?
 
#1 at TDC on the "compression" stroke. I'd check that first. Remove plug, hold finger on hole, crank engine until you feel the air pressure, NOW check where everything is. Is your timing Mark approaching TDC ? Is your FI and distributor synchronized ?
 
#1 at TDC on the "compression" stroke. I'd check that first. Remove plug, hold finger on hole, crank engine until you feel the air pressure, NOW check where everything is. Is your timing Mark approaching TDC ? Is your FI and distributor synchronized ?
I'll be doing that tomorrow morning. As for the FI and distributor, I'm not running it with the FI controlling the timing. Distributor is stand alone and FI only gets RPM signal from coil. Thank you for the replies.
 
Good luck, I always say start with the basics.
Well maybe not tomorrow, I'll have to find someone who can bump the starter while I hold my finger over the #1 spark plug hole to feel for the compression. Unless I can find a remote starter and find a way to reach the starter solenoid under the headers.
 
I'll go first to the obvious. Is your cam installed correctly ?
Here's the pic I took when I installed the cam.
IMG_20191009_172523_762.jpg
 
Double check firing order with counter- clockwise rotation? Is your starter relay firewall mounted?
 
You’re 180 degrees out. When the dot on the cam gear is down and the dot on the crank gear is up is TDC for #6. You need to turn it over once so both dots are up for TDC on #1. Lots of people have blown up mufflers that way, myself included.
 
I like to verify the balancer mark with a piston stop. I had some rough looking small block ones, not so much on the big blocks.
 
Well maybe not tomorrow, I'll have to find someone who can bump the starter while I hold my finger over the #1 spark plug hole to feel for the compression. Unless I can find a remote starter and find a way to reach the starter solenoid under the headers.
If you don't have a remote starter tool, do it the cheating way, just short the solenoid terminals on the firewall with a screwdriver.
 
The pic is how I installed it. I cant remember if I put the timing cover on before I adjusted the rocker arms. Had to rotate the engine a few times plus while I was priming the oil pump. As for the solenoid on the firewall, yes it is. Forgot about that, will be easy to hook up a remote starter that way. Hopefully it's just as easy as that. Firing order has been more than triple verified, internet Google search, SM, and laminated chart. I'll post later on any progress.
 
I like to verify the balancer mark with a piston stop. I had some rough looking small block ones, not so much on the big blocks.

Always a good idea. This is sounding 180 out for starters.
 
You’re 180 degrees out. When the dot on the cam gear is down and the dot on the crank gear is up is TDC for #6. You need to turn it over once so both dots are up for TDC on #1. Lots of people have blown up mufflers that way, myself included.
Maybe don't get your description but think its wrong.
timing.JPG
timing.JPG
 
Got remote starter, connected to solenoid. Removed distributor cap, removed #1 spark plug. Put thumb over hole and bumped starter. Felt pressure pushing thumb up, rotor approaching mark on distributor body for #1 plug. Hand cranked engine last couple degrees to 10 degrees. Adjusted distributor body to line up w rotor at 10 degrees. Installed cap, turned on ignition and cranked starter from outside, bright blue spark from spark plug as I also hear woosh from #1 spark plug hole. Reinstalled spark plug and boot. Crank engine, cranks great, no carb fart or exhaust bang, but no start. Checked w a test light that efi is getting power while cranking, it is. I've got air, got spark, appears timing is in correct position. Gotta be fuel. Either its not getting any, but I hear the pump prime and hear injectors prime when key 1st turned on. With all the trying, is it possible the efi flooded it? I guess it's a wait until Tue to call Fitech. But I am all ears for any other suggestions.
 
Maybe don't get your description but think its wrong.
View attachment 954617 View attachment 954617
I initially thought the same thing, but since it's a new build, like the op said, he rotated it a few turns anyway while priming the oil pump. I did the same thing with mine and just determined tdc on comp stroke afterwards to set up initial timing for first fire up.
 
Bought some starter fluid this morning and opened throttle blades and sprayed some in. Cranked engine and still no start. Pulled drivers valve cover off and bumped engine watching #1 valves. Intake closes and rotor approaches #1 mark on distributor, timing marks approaching zero. Cam and distributor are definitely installed correctly. Either FI unit or spark chasing. Ugh!!!
 
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