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Ford Contour electric fans

How is the a/c fan controlled. From high pressure switch from the a/c or do you just have it on.
 
Right now I don't have a separate fan for the A/C condenser. Hoping the two puller fans will get the job done.
If I use a A/C Condenser fan (pusher in front of the Condenser), there are a few options. I could use the compressor clutch power to trigger the fan relay, or with the EFI, it has an A/C input and output. The EFIs A/C input is mainly to kick up the idle speed when the clutch comes on, and the outputs can be programed, but they do trigger on the low side, not high side.
 
Nice having the efi to turn it on. So you can use one fan for cooling and use the other for both a/c and cooling now that's nice. you shouldn't need a pusher at that point. I'll be following you on the updates.thanks for your input.
 
Odds are the contour fans came out of a 4cyl. And that’s what they were designed to cool.

Maybe a setup from an SUV or other V-8 vehicle may push more air? Just thinking out loud.
 
I can only use a pusher fan as there is no room for pullers or blades on the water pump.I used to have a dual fan ssetup out of a 90's firebird.It was borderline sitting in traffic and finally centrifically exploded after a pass over 140 MPH.Thank the cooling gods it didn't take out the rad!
I then went with a single Spal 16 inch fan.I do not have A/C or any shroud and it never goes over 190*,normally sits at 180/185*.The fan cost $135 and blows better than ANY women you ever had:lol:

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Hemi, spal makes some great fans have been using them on the a/c side for the condenser on big motorcoaches they last for years. Yep the blow power is outstanding.
 
I use spal 11's in a lot of different applications because of their reliability and their fit. I own an RV dealership and that's how I found these great little fans. They use them in side mount A/C condenser package units on Buses and RV's and they fit virtually anywhere. The life expectancy here in the tropics is usually about six to nine years. The generic ones are half that, but still good enough for most people.
 
I was all excited about setting up my ford Contour fan and new Cold Case radiator but reading this post has me now doubting. The Contour fan comes out of a V6 motor, but is rated to move 3500 cfm......this still seems like a lot of air! For comparison, the spal 16” moves 2040 cfm. I would think at the end of the day, cfm of the fan is really all that matters? And Ford fans typically last 15-20 years.
 
The Contour fans worked fine until I added the A/C, then the condenser and extra heat made the setup marginal. On the hottest days, I could only run the A/C for a few minutes before the cooling system temp would get the engine 200+, then shut A/C off and the engine would cool back down.[/QUOTE]


451mopar, have you since remedied this problem, and if so how?
 
I used 2 fans in case one gives up with separate switches and relays.When I installed the spal I just joined the 2 hot wires to the fan,,,,,,turns out the fan is multi speed as well!
 
Two Spall 11's in a GMC Safari with a 6.2 and A/C. 3 row Tahoe radiator. Mainly used to keep the A/C pressures and temp down in heavy traffic. They have relays and 30 amp breakers, set to come on with the A/C compressor. I have a rear defroster switch from a Tahoe to turn them off completely or run them without the A/C. I used these because there was virtually no room between the grille and condenser. I have used this setup on a lot of vehicles and it works and it's not expensive or hard to do. One big fan would be better, remember that at or near the center (fan motor) there is zero air movement so that doubles with two fans. The big 3 speed Porsche Cayenne fan is a great one but hard to get a deal on one unless you find a wrecked one. These fans were installed in 2009 and have been trouble free other than replacing relays a few times. The fans have been out for engine changes twice but never damaged. In heavy heavy hurricane rain they will draw over 30 amps and trip the breakers, during start up they draw about 25 and when running on medium they draw about 10-12 each

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I can only use a pusher fan as there is no room for pullers or blades on the water pump.I used to have a dual fan ssetup out of a 90's firebird.It was borderline sitting in traffic and finally centrifically exploded after a pass over 140 MPH.Thank the cooling gods it didn't take out the rad!
I then went with a single Spal 16 inch fan.I do not have A/C or any shroud and it never goes over 190*,normally sits at 180/185*.The fan cost $135 and blows better than ANY women you ever had:lol:

View attachment 954133 View attachment 954135

So a single spal fan mounted as a pusher is keeping that monster cool?
 
That big,beautiful roots blower acts as a great heat-sink to keep temperatures in check. My buddy has a 1937 Ford with a roots blown 383 small block. The grill in those cars is about 18" wide. 2 Spal 11" fans mounted vertically as pushers (no room on engine side, like Hemi) keeps it right at 180*, even here in hot, sunny California.
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That's great news. I always thought that no pusher mounted fan could ever cool as well as a puller mounted fan. I might just go ahead and ditch my engine fan knowing this.

Which specific Spal 16 inch fan is it?
 
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That big,beautiful roots blower acts as a great heat-sink to keep temperatures in check. My buddy has a 1937 Ford with a roots blown 383 small block. The grill in those cars is about 18" wide. 2 Spal 11" fans mounted vertically as pushers (no room on engine side, like Hemi) keeps it right at 180*, even here in hot, sunny California.
View attachment 955173
Is that with the A/C on?? LOL
 
When I mentioned 2-speed fan control, I was referring to the gray box on the lower left of the shroud. It has a resistive wire section to run the fans slower to reduce noise. I control the fans with the EFI which senses the engine temp. Before the EFI, I used the Dikota Digital fan controller that could read the stock sending unit in parallel with the dash gauge (The IVR was converted to electronic long ago.)
The gray box on my shroud is and aftermarket controller that turns them on low at 180 and high at 190, or whatever preset I want to put in and has a/c override to kick on hi when a/c is turned on. Not using the stock resistor setup.
 
The gray box on my shroud is and aftermarket controller that turns them on low at 180 and high at 190, or whatever preset I want to put in and has a/c override to kick on hi when a/c is turned on. Not using the stock resistor setup.

That's cool, where did the controller come from? I thought it was the stock setup, except for the gray color. The stock resistive block one on my fan was black.
 
That's cool, where did the controller come from? I thought it was the stock setup, except for the gray color. The stock resistive block one on my fan was black.
I got it from Entropy Radiator. It's all 10 gauge wire and Delphi weather pac connectors. Waterproof "good" relays. He has a lifetime warranty on the wiring harness. I'm still struggling to get it started so I won't know how it works until I do.
 
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