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Cranks but won't start

khryslerkid said:
I don't think that's a bolt thread is it? Anyway...

Made myself a Piston Stop for finding TDC with the heads on. Things you will need:

Long reach spark plug

3/8 x 16 x 2 1/4 bolt

Hack saw

5/16 drill bit

3/8 x 16 tap

View attachment 955701

Cut the shoulder that's holding the porcelain all the way around. Don't saw straight through. Turn the plug as you go, stopping when you hit the porcelain. Tap around the hex on the plug to release the glue that's holding it in. Cut off the ground strap and tap the electrode and porcelain out. Also remove the sealing ring on the threads.

Useing a 5/16 drill bit, drill through the center. The inside diameter is already 5/16 but there is a shoulder halfway down. Follow up with a 3/8 x 16 thread tap.
Use a 2 1/4 bolt with at least 1 1/4 of thread.

View attachment 955702

That's all there is to it

View attachment 955703

To use the stop:

Remove all the spark plugs in the engine.

Find the piston top, by turning the crank by hand, useing a wire, or what I like to use, a plastic wire tie, in the #1 plug hole. Try to find the TDC by hand first before inserting the tool. Then back if off just a little. Then insert the tool with the bolt backed off. Run the bolt in until you feel it just touch the piston. Make a mark on the damper.

View attachment 955704

Now rotate the crank in the opposite direction until you feel it touch the stop. Go slow and let the compression bleed off. When the piston contacts the stop, make a mark on the damper.

View attachment 955705

Half the distance between the marks is your TDC.

Fine tuning where you set the bolt, can narrow the distance between your marks. A little practice and patience will get you good results. Great for checking your dampner's accuracy.
Click to expand...
I did similar, couldn't find a 14mm 1.25 pitch. I beat the porcelain and leads out then drilled through the body w a 1/4" bit. Tacked on a 1/4x20 nut to the top and ran a 2.5 inch long 1/4x20 bolt in. Then did just as you described.
 
diesel_lv said:
Here's the pic I took when I installed the cam. View attachment 954498
Click to expand...

Do you have any better pictures?
The Crank keyway should be in-line with the first crank pin, and the keyway appears to be pointing towards the upper part of the cylinder? Looks like the keyway is pointing to between the two large water pump holes? It this is true, the timing may be off?

Do a compression pressure test, and see what the cylinder pressures look like.
 
451Mopar said:
Do you have any better pictures?
The Crank keyway should be in-line with the first crank pin, and the keyway appears to be pointing towards the upper part of the cylinder? Looks like the keyway is pointing to between the two large water pump holes? It this is true, the timing may be off?

Do a compression pressure test, and see what the cylinder pressures look like.
Click to expand...
Key way should be pointing to approximately 2 o'clock when cam dot is at 6 and crank dot at 12. I was just asked this very thing this morning by Fitech Comp Cams and 440 Source. All 3 wanting to confirm keyway was approximately at 2 o'clock.
 
Your camshaft position in relation to the crankshaft is correct, and together make the 4-cycle.
This is fixed and cannot be altered anymore, the only thing now that could be "off" is the distributor.
This you can verify by confirming you are on the compression stroke, either feel by finger for pressure build op during cranking, or confirming the valves position on cyl #1 are both closed.
If you would be able to look at the camshaft from the top, you can see the exhaust lobe is on its way up and not able to see the intake lobe as it is below the lifter, that is the correct position.

To confirm that the distributor is in sync with the cam and crank is to hand crank the engine until you are on the compression stroke on cyl #1, once getting close to TDC stop and check the distributor rotor position.
It should face in the same direction as the terminal of the spark plug wire for cyl #1 on the cap, if this is not in sync the rotor is facing 180*, opposite direction and will clearly show it is not correct.
Being "close" at the position, either before or after the cyl #1 terminal is down to the initial advance setting you can alter.

But from what i read, and i am no expert i EFI so correct me if i am wrong, your EFI computer is not seeing an rpm signal when cranking and therefore does not inject any fuel.
Also it is not clear if you are having a spark on the plugs, so i would look at these 2 issues and not to worry about cam/crank timing.
 
Are the crank and run wires (both sides of ballast resistor) connected together? And those wires connected to the White wire for switched power?
The white wire needs power when in the crank and run key positions.
Check for coil output too. you most likely need the same crank and run power wires connected to the distributor ignition module and the coil positive terminal.

Double check firing order, and the firing order is "counter-clockwise" on a big block Mopar.
 
451Mopar said:
Are the crank and run wires (both sides of ballast resistor) connected together? And those wires connected to the White wire for switched power?
The white wire needs power when in the crank and run key positions.
Check for coil output too. you most likely need the same crank and run power wires connected to the distributor ignition module and the coil positive terminal.

Double check firing order, and the firing order is "counter-clockwise" on a big block Mopar.
Click to expand...
OMG!!!! I have been checking firing order per diagram. Not thinking counter clockwise. After I cool down from my morning run and finish my coffee, I'm gonna change the wires to the firing order "counter clockwise" the opposite of what the pic shows.
20200527_064843.jpg
20200527_064843.jpg
 
Wish I knew how to upload a video. It started!! Had the firing order going clockwise. Once I changed it, it fired right up!!!
 
You installed a cam button as well correct? Don’t see one in your picture so just confirming.
 
BLK 68 R/T said:
You installed a cam button as well correct? Don’t see one in your picture so just confirming.
Click to expand...
Sure did. Has a metal bearing style one but, can't remember why, it didn't fit right so I went with the white nylon type. Used reinforced stamped metal timing cover to avoid flex also
 
With the electric fans cranking on hi, the fuel pump on, its getting 14.6 volts at the battery. Nice having a 140 amp alternator and modern solid state voltage regulator.
 
After starting and timing and some tuning steps, cooling down and tightening, I restarted and let get warm then idle for 20 minutes in 112 degree temp. Engine showed 213 degrees going into radiator, 160 degrees coming out of radiator. Running 180 degree thermostat. I still won't know for a couple of weeks, as I can't get a driveshaft sooner than June 11th, how it does out on the road. But I think idling for 20 minutes and maintaining that is good. Intake air temps were 133 degrees.
 
Just chop up a street lamp post and make a drive shaft, you must drive it! :D
Good you found the issue and all is working!
Maybe one day i will also go across and go EFI, looking forward on some feedback from you about the FiTech kit.

Whats the need of that cam button, i know where it is for but why does a 1-bolt cam (like i have) does not need a button and a 3-bolt cam needs it?
Or is this just because the space is available due to bolt design?
 
Wietse said:
Just chop up a street lamp post and make a drive shaft, you must drive it! :D
Good you found the issue and all is working!
Maybe one day i will also go across and go EFI, looking forward on some feedback from you about the FiTech kit.

Whats the need of that cam button, i know where it is for but why does a 1-bolt cam (like i have) does not need a button and a 3-bolt cam needs it?
Or is this just because the space is available due to bolt design?
Click to expand...

His car is running a roller cam, the lobes are straight across, no taper like a flat tappet cam.
 
Wietse said:
Just chop up a street lamp post and make a drive shaft, you must drive it! :D
Good you found the issue and all is working!
Maybe one day i will also go across and go EFI, looking forward on some feedback from you about the FiTech kit.

Whats the need of that cam button, i know where it is for but why does a 1-bolt cam (like i have) does not need a button and a 3-bolt cam needs it?
Or is this just because the space is available due to bolt design?
Click to expand...
The taper on a flat tappet hydraulic cam keeps the cam towards the rear of the engine and stops cam walk. No taper on the roller cam will allow the cam to walk forward while driving the oil pump and the distributor. As it walks forward it can cause multiple things, least of which is timing. The button keeps it in place.
 
Last edited:
Thx guys for explaining.
I missed out on that he has a roller cam.
 
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