Valve cover leaks

I've been using the silicone gaskets from Real Gaskets Tennessee as of late. They work well, but be forewarned - when using stock valve covers, you will need to trim the tabs slightly.

DO NOT over tighten them.

https://realgaskets.com/product-category/automotive/plymouth/page/2/

ruffcut said:

check out Right Stuff black gasket maker. Really good sealant. Iuse it in place of oil pan gaskets

Click to expand...

Do you use Right Stuff in place of gaskets or in addition to? Having same issue here with Felpro 1612 and stock steel VCs.

Went to Napa and picked up Fel-Pro blue stripe cork and the guy recommended Right Stuff. Not sure what next move is.

Here are my results:
I'm using the AMD repro covers on both sides and surfaces are flat all the way around (after some massaging). My passenger cover sealed on the second try using just the Moroso Perm-align gasket, no RTV. I am using studs in both heads as well as the triangular spreaders on the covers. The drive's side took a bit of work. Wouldn't seal with the Moroso (dry) and was leaking at the rear onto the manifold. It wouldn't seal with the Cometic (dry) or with copper RTV, both leaked in the same spot as well. The Fel-pro 1612 wouldn't seal dry, but is now sealed using copper RTV on the cover side only.
I don't know if it was coincidence, but on the last try for the driver's side, I used a rubber mallet to tap it down before I added the nuts. Might have made all the difference?
Anyway, just glad to have it fixed it for now.

Now I'm on to setting up my Mewagner PCV valve....

On VC I think use the Right Stuff in place of silicone. It has completely different make up and will seal quickly as apposed to waiting for silicone to set. The Right Stuff has a one minute set time. Hope this helps.

glad its fixed

post #14 in the following thread will stop the leaks for others that come across this issue

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/valve-cover-gaskets.87565/#post-910218941


watermelon

I usually try to avoid using silicon sealants if I can. All my cars have adjustable rocker arms, and I don't like cleaning that stuff off.
I have used the Mopar ATF RTV (because I had extra from a trans filter replacement on the '97 Concord), and it seems to seal really good.

In the future. The gaskets aren't the issue. It's uneven surfaces that are being sealed. The gasket can only deform so far. Clean up of RTV/Silicone is easy. Quick scrape then a rag with some mineral spirits leave the rag wet on the area. The sealer will melt off. Trying to seal tin covers on a stock head without sealer is near impossible. The head surface is a rough casting. The covers are wavy and weak. For sure RTV between the cover and gasket is a big help. the surface MUST be free of oil. You may get away with no sealer on the head. Especially if you use a cork based gasket. They conform pretty well. They can not be OVER TIGHTENED. They will split. RTV by itself will seal great if its clean. Good luck getting the covers back off. At worst you'll need RTV on both sides. The only reason to use a gasket in between is so you can get it apart by tearing the gasket. The rubber stuff works great on machined surface aftermarket heads. But very poor on stock cast/tin stuff.Trust me I was a dealer tech at a Chevy dealer for 27 years. Sealed a lot of SB Chevy with tin covers under warranty. Book time for the pair was just over an hour, If it leaked again you did them for free.
Doug

the post #14 i referenced above was from dvw

thanks again dvw


watermelon