Fitech TriPower install - 440 in a 69 Ply Wagon

70chall440 · May 29, 2020

I am in the process of installing a Fitech Tri-power (6 pack) on a 440 in a 69 Plymouth Wagon (not its not stock..) belonging to a friend. I figured that there might be others thinking about doing this so I thought I would post some details that might be helpful, and/or someone who has already done it might chime is with something I haven't encountered yet.

This post will proceed as I proceed so it might take a little while as there are times when I don't work on it. So, in my mind these are the tasks that must be done (in no particular order);

Build/install fuel system (done)
Remove stock fuel pump and rod (done)
Install throttle bodies
install temp sensor
Install O2 sensor
Plumb TBs
Run vacuum lines for PVC, Distributor and brake booster (I have to install the booster as a part of the 4 wheel disc brake conversion)

There are lot of other smaller tasks I am missing or am not mentioning but feel free to chime in if you are wondering.

Hopefully this thread is helpful to someone.

70chall440 · May 29, 2020

So let's begin with the system itself; I am not going to list it out but you get pretty much everything you need for the throttle body install such as;

the throttle bodies
O2 sensor with mounting apparatus
Harness with assorted wirig
temp sensor
some small round tubes (6 of them)
ECU
Hand held
Hand held mount
the instructions

What isn't included is linkage for the outer TBs, more on this later but suffice to say you can use stock Mopar 6 pack linkage but it will require some tweaking.

Now, the instructions are ok but really not very specific and leave out a lot of help information such the fact that there isn't any linkage, in fact they don't even mention connecting the outer TBs.

70chall440 · May 29, 2020

Now, lets talk about the fuel system. Despite what you may read or hear, in the majority of EFI systems you need a return line. There are a variety of methods to achieve this but they break down to essentially hard lines or soft lines. I have done both and each has its pros and cons.

Next is the pump, you will need an EFI pump capable of developing and sustaining the fuel pressure your system needs, in this case it is 58 PSI. When it comes to pumps, there are a number of options but they fall into internal and external categories.

For internal, you can get a dedicated tank or modify the tank you have.

For external you can keep what you have and plumb the pump into the system. The problem here is that most EFI pumps are pushers and they need to be near the tank (within 2 feet) and be below the tank. This is pretty difficult to obtain on a Mopar in my experience. On my Cuda, I am using an external and have it inside the passenger side wheel well but all of my other cars have an internal.

On this car I decided to use an internal and to that end, I decided to make a "retro" fit system in which I attach a pump to the end of the pick up. Holley sells a kit just like this for something like $300 and it is pretty decent kit. I chose to make my own and it cost probably $200. I used a new stainless steel 3/8" pickup and an Aeromotive Stealth pump that will produce 90 PSI.

The challenge was bringing the wires out of the pickup and getting it sealed.

70chall440 · May 29, 2020

As a part of putting in new lines, I needed to open up the cross member to allow two lines to pass through with AN nuts.

I should note that in this build I opted to run steel lines front to rear, they are connected to the tank via -6 AN nylon braided line, I use Fragola series 8000 push lock line and fittings on my builds. The steel lines end near the T bar cross member where they transition to soft lines, the feed running to a 40 micron filter and the return right up to the bypass regulator.

Note, in the pic of the hole, I actually had to cut it out and redo it making it larger, I believe it ended up being about 1 1/4" ID.

70chall440 · May 29, 2020

The reason that there are 2 different colors is because the first green (PVC coated) line I made kinked, buy in the end it worked out because the green is the feed and the silver is the return.

70chall440 · May 29, 2020

As mentioned, in most cases you will need a return line. Some systems allow you to feed into one side and return out the other (usually into a regulator). In this case I am using a bypass regulator, so the feed line and the return line go to the regulator.

bearman · May 30, 2020

Great work good info like threads like these. Always learning

70chall440 · May 30, 2020

Thanks, me too..

70chall440 · May 30, 2020

People interested in this system should understand that Fitech attempted to make a system that would be at home on pretty much anything, especially any engine/model that would have or could have had a 6 pack, 6 barrel, tripower, etc. In designing it, they had to take a lot into consideration so there are some things that as a Mopar guy you find strange, such as the holes that the bolts go through to hold the TBs to the intake are 3/8" and very sloppy on a Mopar intake. However, Fitech includes a number of small aluminum tubes (6 of them) in the kit which you put into 2 opposing holes in each TB and then the normal 5/16 bolts fit and properly locate the TBs.

70chall440 · May 30, 2020

The next issue has to do with the TBs themselves; the 2 outboard TBs are basically the same (as you would expect), however one of them has all of the vacuum ports (for the entire system) on it. As it comes out of the box, one outboard TB has all of the vacuum ports and the other one has a MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure) in it.

The problem is that the MAP sensor extends below the TB, there for it has to be in the front so that it can clear the intake. If you leave the TBs as they come, this then means that all of your vacuum ports will be pretty much unusable because they will be on the rear TB and blocked by the center TB.

However, you can move the MAP sensor from one TB over to the other and mount it in the front, so you will have the MAP sensor and all of the vacuum ports in the front TB. You MUST put the block off plate in the rear TB. In these pictures, the switch has already been made.

View attachment 957135 View attachment 957136

70chall440 · May 30, 2020

If you want to use the stock Mopar throttle cable stud you need to drill out the center hole to 5/16th or get a new one from Edelbrock or someone.

70chall440 · May 30, 2020

In my case the throttle cable was just a hair too short, now there are a number of ways to address this; sometimes you bend the bracket a little, you can notch the bracket to allow the cable to slide forward a little or as I did slot out the holes just a little. Its worth noting that you will not need a return spring since all of the TBs have springs on them.

70chall440 · May 30, 2020

A note here, you want to install the TBs starting at the rear moving forward, so the back one on first, then the middle TB and the forward most TB last (which should have all of the ports in the front along with your relocated MAP sensor.

You need to connect the IAC onto the center TB when you install it because once all 3 are on it is very difficult to get the connector on.

Also worth noting that the gaskets must be put on a specific way, it is covered in the instructions but just in case I am putting it here. Putting them on incorrectly will make the throttle blades stick.

matthon · May 31, 2020

Running their dual quad on a tr.
Put the filter/regulator/return near the tank.
One braided/ptfe line up, done.
Pulled the regulators out of the tbs and capped them off.
Shielded the ignition/coil wires.
Upgraded the alternator, grounds, fusebox.
Switching to timing control soon.

70chall440 · May 31, 2020

Cool, I have never done dual 4's, quite a few 6 packs but never dual quads. I have thought about running dual quads on my 426 for my RR but right now am set up for a single 4.

Multi carbs (or throttle bodies) is cool.

Fitech TriPower install - 440 in a 69 Ply Wagon

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