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Adjustable Pinion snubbers

my 69 bee all I get is wheel hop use snubber at different heights or no snubber still the same .I took off bracket that holds rear part of spring together and that didn't work .I try everything people tell me still get hoping some one said get cal tracks never have this problem again he runs them on his challenger.
 
al383 said:
my 69 bee all I get is wheel hop use snubber at different heights or no snubber still the same .I took off bracket that holds rear part of spring together and that didn't work .I try everything people tell me still get hoping some one said get cal tracks never have this problem again he runs them on his challenger.
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Are your leaf springs new?
 
62440 said:
I don't know, but Mother Mopar didn't generally build something if it didn't work. My car still hasn't gotten enough miles on it to give it a test. I likely won't need it, my car has the 3400# SS springs with Monroe police interceptor shocks for a 78 Dodge Monaco iirc and l highly doubt I'll ever race it. But then again maybe a bit of Goofing around. I was just curious of people's thoughts or experience
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Well, things change over the years like much better tires, shocks and even springs. Personally, I've driven just one car that had DC snubber that I liked and that was on a street car and driving it on the street.

Darter6 said:
Way back in 1978 I went to a Direct Connection seminar in Ohio. (Anybody remember them ?)The class subject that came up was the pinion snubber.Way back then it was said, (This is a racing application) remove the snubber when using Super Stock springs.Let the springs do their job.If using stock springs, automatic cars use the adjustable snubber touching the floor at rest. If a stick car 1'' from floor at rest.The snubber debate is on going and is one of those subjects that the answer is, "What ever works for you".
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Went to a DC seminar in Houston sometime in the mid to late 70's too. Wasn't hardly anyone there as Houston wasn't a Mopar town and still isn't much of one today. Was kinda surprised that DC put one on here lol. Also went to the Dave Morgan seminar a couple of times.....which reminds me that someone here borrowed my Door Slammers chassis book and never returned it.
 
al383 said:
my 69 bee all I get is wheel hop use snubber at different heights or no snubber still the same .I took off bracket that holds rear part of spring together and that didn't work .I try everything people tell me still get hoping some one said get cal tracks never have this problem again he runs them on his challenger.
Click to expand...
Stick or auto? How high in the back? What shocks? What tires? What tire pressure? Clamps on the front section of the spring? 20" front segment, or 22/23"? Adjustable snubber or stock snubber?
 
Stick I'm not sure how high in the back Bilstein shocks M&H Street slicks 20 psi in the tires took the clamps off the rear springs adjustable snubber not sure about the front of the spring
 
Well, the stick let's me out. The last fast stick car I had, also had wheel hop. (actually both of them). My fox mustang would wheel hop with too much air, but it was a factory four link car, no help. The other was a 57 chevy, and cheap slapper bars cured that one.
All I can say is, if you have leaf spring wheel hop, the front segment of your leaf isn't stiff enough. Maybe clamp every leaf in front of the rear end.
 
65Fury440 said:
This.
They really do help plant the tire with a simple, cheap method, providing it is close enough to the floor pan, and your springs are working.
When you unclamp the rear segments, the action is increased.

They don't work as good as a Calvert/ Assassin bar system, but simple and easy for a guy that doesn't want to dump a bunch of money and wants to hook a lil better.
Here is a pic of my heap when it had a snubber and unclamped rears. It lifted the car probably 3 inches.
44942757_10156648848884788_5548783814387433472_n.jpg
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So, what did you run with that car. I've seen it a couple times at Hardee's
 
al383 said:
No not extra heavy duty took those off last
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So, which springs are on the car now? The correct spring/shock combo cures wheel hop. I'd sure have at least one clamp on the back half. the location needs trial & error.
 
furyus said:
So, what did you run with that car. I've seen it a couple times at Hardee's
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11.21 @ 123 last year. So far 2020 has not been cooperating to get back to the track with improvements. :BangHead:
 
66Satellite47 said:
So, which springs are on the car now? The correct spring/shock combo cures wheel hop. I'd sure have at least one clamp on the back half. the location needs trial & error.
Click to expand...
I just put Viking double adjustable on rear have to get shocks for front
 
al383 said:
I just put Viking double adjustable on rear have to get shocks for front
Click to expand...
What springs are on the car now?. .. The spring pack makes a lot of difference in how the car reacts. The good shocks let you get the spring reaction really dialed in.
 
al383 said:
I just put Viking double adjustable on rear have to get shocks for front
Click to expand...

Vikings seems like they are really well built, have to see how long they last.
I put Vikings all the way around with assassin bars, watch the second burnout, they plant really well. I have a hard time not pushing through the front tires.

 
Where do you race that lets you run low elevens with no bar? Not trying to start anything, just curious.
 
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