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Body and Paint Questions

vintage chromoly said:
Good sanding blocks are very important. I have a large collection of blocks. I have every block that durablock makes and I only use a couple of them anymore. I’ve found that, for getting panels really flat, a Hutchins block is far superior. They don’t flex and cannot be pushed into the “lows” like a durablock can.

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Hutchins blocks are good, no doubt.. I still prefer the Dura-block but like I mentioned earlier, don't push, like the paper do the work..
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Few points... What are you using as a sanding block? How big? Are you using guide coat?

If you paint over what you have shown above you'll see the sharp color contrast through most paints.... At least shoot a sealer.... Personally I'd re-prime, guide coat & cut it again... I've never heard someone say "I blocked that panel to much".... I've heard lots of folks say "I should have blocked that panel again".....

I like Dura-Block sanding blocks, I prefer at least a 12" block, if the panel is mostly flat or a convex curve I like using an 18" or bigger block... The longer the block the flatter/straighter you'll get the panel.... I have a 30" block for doing roofs....

Guide coat is typically misting black spray paint over the fresh primer, that way when you sand the high spots immediately become apparent cause you cut the guide coat off as soon as you start sanding.... The low spots keep their black speckles till you've cut the high areas away around the low spot....

Depending on how bad the highs & lows are you might want to break out your body hammer... Pecking down high spots & pecking up low spots...

Also if you have a low spot & you plan to re-prime a little extra heavy on the priming in known low spots can help straighten a panel...

Just a little to think about...
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I have a Durablock set which includes a 12" and an 18". They work really well. After blocking the body work, additional coats of filler primer and blocking again makes perfect sense before painting. I used a guide coat to get the body work where it is now, then checked it with a straight edge. It feels like glass.
 
Just a quick tip: I never, repeat NEVER, mix paint/primer products. Use what you like, PPG, SPI, whatever brand but use only their products. I did a job a couple of years ago for a close friend and he wanted a special color from a different supplier. Said the rep told him it was compatible with PPG sealer. It was not, peeled off as there was no chemical bond between the products. Had to strip that crap off and start over again. Lessons learned: #1 I only do work for myself now and #2 I will only use one product line right down to their wax and grease remover. Take it for what it is worth but that job cost me a weeks worth of time to correct.
 
Did Chrysler use a seam sealer/caulk between the inner and outer fender? Seems like I have cleaned something off that joint when disassembling?
Mike
 
I just went thru a bunch of photos of my disassembly of a '73 looking for a photo of the inner fender to outer fender joint but none were clear enough to show the sealer. But, like the above post, they did use a sealer/caulk between the two as I remember using a wire wheel to get it off.
 
What is a quality, easy to spray, single stage paint these days? It has been 9 years since I painted a car and the Centari enamel I was last using is no longer made. It's going to be a light colored non-metallic job.
 
Dupont Centari and Imron, now that is going back a little. I think Imron is still available but is expensive and doesn't flow like it did in the late 70's. Pretty sure Centari was phased out starting in 2012.
Back to your question about a quality single stage. I have used and like PPG Shop-line series JE acrylic enamel. Last time I sprayed it was for some deer damage back in 2014 and the color was Super White on a Toyota. Not very expensive, easy to spray, and color matched just fine. Not sure how it holds up as I sold the car a couple of years later. Still looked good at that time.
100_8741.JPG
 
When painting a B body with single stage, how much paint should I buy? Is a gallon enough when painting the exterior of the car and the door jambs? I've already painted the under side of the trunk lid, the hood, and the engine bay.
 
D I if you are getting your paint out of town I would get a couple extra quarts to have. Just my thoughts
 
Minimum of 5 quarts, it it has a vinyl top you could probably do it with a gallon... Thing is once your spraying it's to late to go get more... Also coverage depends on how well the paint covers, it helps allot if you seal the car first so everything is the same color, any bodywork that isn't sealed is gonna take extra paint to hide...
 
vintage chromoly said:
Good sanding blocks are very important. I have a large collection of blocks. I have every block that durablock makes and I only use a couple of them anymore. I’ve found that, for getting panels really flat, a Hutchins block is far superior. They don’t flex and cannot be pushed into the “lows” like a durablock can.

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Don’t know how well the long flat ones would work on a 66-67 Charger or B-body. The painter that did our car said he does not ever want to another 66-67 b-body. Didn’t realize just how many angles, curves and body lines there are in the early Chargers. But he will do the later b-bodies.
 
As I sand my car for paint; I have these areas where the primer is thin and small areas of bare metal showing. Do I need to cover all these little areas with primer, or is this small of an area not an issue?

IMG_2322.JPG IMG_2327.JPG
 
I would recover the light spots but the pros will tell you best. Good luck
 
As long as your bare spots are not any larger than shown and at least a 400 grit feather/finish you can seal over them with your DP ect as long as its metal.
If you have any bare filler pop up you need to prime , bare filler will ghost ring on you.
 
The product you pointed to with the link is a sealer. I’ve never heard of that product, not sure how well it works as a high build, sandable, primer. For this type of resto work you need a primer surfacer and an epoxy/sealer. Also, stick with a system. Using different manufacturers may work but if you don’t do this everyday I would want the risk.
 
Detroit Iron said:
Would you say that I don't need to a separate sealer if I used this product? https://www.highteck.com/2-1-voc-high-solids-dtm-primer-sealer.html
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I have never used that sealer, I use deltron / ppg 3025 or ppg dp 90 or dp 50 , depending on what the application is. follow what 69L48Z27 posted, Im the same as far as sticking to one brand / system through out the paint job.
Not to say you cant mix and match but it is a crap shoot.
Many guys paint right over primer that is wet sanded smooth, Myself I use a sealer over the sanded primer before base or single stage.
Read and read again on the application of each, product temp ranges , flash times ect.
a activator will act one way in the winter and change in warm temps,
you can get fast , medium , and slow.
 
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