Mike meeks
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Anyone know where to get good points? Napa?
Just replaced my electronic ignition w/ points, yup.
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From Ray @HALIFAXHOPS
No. Napa points suck. Their condensers are worse. See post #24. @HALIFAXHOPS is the man.
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As I mentioned previously, Standard Motor Products Blue Streak line have the largest contact area and an addition a copper conductor that is in addition to the contact spring. They also have a plastic (maybe nylon or Delrin) rubbing block. In addition, the model with the -XP suffix have a red lubricating wick to keep the rubbing block lubed. Remember....when selecting points to insure the stationary contact has a ventilator hole to help dissipate the ozone gas (which occurs when the points seperate) from oxidizing the contact surfaces. I've found them on eBay or do a Google search for a supplier near you. The Filko brand are robust but have a phenolic or similar rubbing block but can wear quickly if not lubed adequately. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
BOB RENTON
All well and good but how many miles do we put on our cars. A set of points used to last 12 months or 12,000 miles. Well that's when the shops recommended they be replaced. They would last much longer. Ours will last a few years with our type of driving. I would much rather have a set of quality USA made points from the 70's than the literal "crap" I have seen now days. And along those same lines, the late model condensers are terrible. You might need to buy 2 or 3 to get a good one. I bought Standard Points for my dual point and they were terrible. The misalignment was ridiculous.
Triple Black 73
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I replaced my electronic ignition with a Linux powered computer and a dumb MSD CDI box.
CompSyn
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I'll be using points in my all original Road Runner. The Pure Stock guys out in Michigan told me to use the now discontinued Accel 32 oz. points, which is what they use in their 11-sec cars. They must know something on what works. So I've picked up a few sets and have them on the shelf.
Good for a race car but unnecessary in a street car. The HP points have strong springs and will wear the distributor cam out prematurely.
CompSyn
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Good for a 383 that easily revs to 6,500. Actually, my stock distributor was recurved in a Sun distributor machine to 7,000-rpm using nothing more than an Accel 32oz. single point. If/when my distributor cam wears out, I have an NOS one in the box.
Yes most of the new stuff sucks. Normal factory spring tension specs are usually 17-22 in oz. usually good to around 5500 rpm without points float. Make sure you lube the cam. Condensors really are bad now, if yours is good reuse it or find a NORS one somewhere that was tested cold and hot.
67belsat
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Was always wandering if they still sell accell dual points kit haven't checked lately my cars are all converted to EI and only failure has been a coil I run chrome boxes in all my cars I do have B RB and small block points distributors laying around.
mrhemi
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I always found the Accel dual points sets would not work properly in the Prestolite distributors. It appeared that the rubbing block was slightly wider, this affected the ability to adjust for proper dwell angle.
Yes they are easy to adjust individual but the dwell together is hard to achieve. Great for single point systems though.
RM23M9A
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"Advance" timing, I'm guessing? Just had to new distrib, ECU, Elec Ign my A12, at 36° TOTAL I'm gettin that damn "Ping" preignition crap ONLY when stomping on it. Sometimes it'll open up "All 6", sometimes it'll hesitate. Unless I drop in into 2nd!
(727, 440 (.020 over), Non-Ethanol of course). Was told that "Race Gas" octane boost helps? Havent tried that yet. Hate to eat up carb gaskets.
I am always buying dist cores, usually 10 each and the ride if you want to get rid of them. 4 out of ten are usually just parts.
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What's your setup? Compression ratio? Is camshaft stock? I'm not real familiar with the A12 cars but assume they are similar to the rest of the high performance cars of the era? Timed port vac advance or direct to manifold vac? I used to add one gallon of av gas to my 10.5-1 340 Cuda and that took care of any pinging. It wouldn't ping until the engine temp was a tad over 180. I put a 195 stat in it during the winter time and it wouldn't ping so long as the ambient temps were in the 50's.....
RM23M9A
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11.5:1 , Lunati .292 Flat Tappet, solid lift cam, 2 NEW Holley 4365 (Outboard carbs) center is OEM 4144 350 cfm, motor is an "A" stamped .020 over, (443 c.i.), 4:10 Dana rear, Stock HP manifolds, took it out this morning for a required Inspection for tag renewal, before I left I backed timing off about 1/8" or 1°~2°, seemed to idle a lot better, lost a tiny bit of "ZIP" off throttle, but less "Ping", until stomped on, was around 60° outside, also running a 190° stat, but runs at 180/185 unless I "Warm It up". Havent tried aviation fuel, but DO have a can of "Race-Gas". I may try that. I'm probably good as it gets right now. Too much Retard= runs like a dog...
MontanaMopar
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I know this isn't an electronic ignition thread, but does anyone know anything about the Top Street Performance brand distributors?
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Looks like Summit, Speedway Motors and some others sell that brand.....not sure if they are for Mopars or not.
67belsat
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I'll get back with you on what I have.
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