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Stage 1 cancer cure?

Randy Marsh

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I of course know that the proper solution is to weld in patches, however this car isn't particularly valuable and I'll be running out of warm weather before I know it. There's obviously something going on behind the panel too.

I know a lot of guys would pave and spray, but I have no interest in seeing bubbles in 2yrs. Is treating the back of the panel with encapsulator (ect), and proper prep to the front an option? Thanks
IMG_20200627_234813862~3.jpg
IMG_20200627_234813862~3.jpg
 
Your post doesn't have what year, make, model, front, or rear so I can will give some general advise. In the location pictured the outer and inner fender/quarter are either touching each other or very close hence trapping water and dirt and causing the issue you have. If you can't get between these to address the rust between them, you are screwed. That is worst case. If you are lucky, you have a few stone chips that took out a chunk of paint and allowed water to get under the paint and start the rust process. Treating the back of the panel, and I mean the outer panel, if you can get to it will help but it is not the magic bullet. You still need to take off the loose rust and get down to something solid, thinner metal, but still solid. If you can do that, the rust stop will work fairly well. After the rust stop dries I would still spray with epoxy and a sealer even though the epoxy in that location will not see the sun. You still have to fix the exterior damage. I usually take a small pick and press fairly hard on the area you want to repair. If it pushes through, so be it, you were going to have to fix it anyway. If it holds, you might get lucky a second time. Don't use a angle grinder to work this small area, instead break out the Dremel with a stainless wire wheel. You are going to try brain surgery not ER work. If the stainless wheel can get you to good metal with out making a hole, you are three times lucky and should play the loto. The metal does not have to be perfect, just clean. Small pin prick size dark pockets are what the rust stop is made to address. Spray and allow the rust stop to dry a few days then sand off the excess. You want your glaze to stick to the good metal around the little pin picks (if there are any). I like 3M Platinum because it can be used on bare metal. Sand and glaze again, and again, until you have it close to the original metal. Prime, paint, and feather as needed. If you punch a hole, no worries, grab a piece of copper and use it as a backer and then weld up the hole. This will burn some paint and make the repaired are much bigger but it will fill the hole. Hope this helps and good luck.
 
Your post doesn't have what year, make, model, front, or rear so I can will give some general advise. In the location pictured the outer and inner fender/quarter are either touching each other or very close hence trapping water and dirt and causing the issue you have. If you can't get between these to address the rust between them, you are screwed. That is worst case. If you are lucky, you have a few stone chips that took out a chunk of paint and allowed water to get under the paint and start the rust process. Treating the back of the panel, and I mean the outer panel, if you can get to it will help but it is not the magic bullet. You still need to take off the loose rust and get down to something solid, thinner metal, but still solid. If you can do that, the rust stop will work fairly well. After the rust stop dries I would still spray with epoxy and a sealer even though the epoxy in that location will not see the sun. You still have to fix the exterior damage. I usually take a small pick and press fairly hard on the area you want to repair. If it pushes through, so be it, you were going to have to fix it anyway. If it holds, you might get lucky a second time. Don't use a angle grinder to work this small area, instead break out the Dremel with a stainless wire wheel. You are going to try brain surgery not ER work. If the stainless wheel can get you to good metal with out making a hole, you are three times lucky and should play the loto. The metal does not have to be perfect, just clean. Small pin prick size dark pockets are what the rust stop is made to address. Spray and allow the rust stop to dry a few days then sand off the excess. You want your glaze to stick to the good metal around the little pin picks (if there are any). I like 3M Platinum because it can be used on bare metal. Sand and glaze again, and again, until you have it close to the original metal. Prime, paint, and feather as needed. If you punch a hole, no worries, grab a piece of copper and use it as a backer and then weld up the hole. This will burn some paint and make the repaired are much bigger but it will fill the hole. Hope this helps and good luck.
This is the quarter on a 66 Belvedere. The pin holes are all isolated to the pinched area between the quarter and the outer wheel house/trunk extensions. On the 66/67's there's basically no room to work. The trunk extensions are really close to the quarter.

I think Sherman sells a lower quarter patch. I hope it fits better than the other Sherman crap I've had the misfortune of using. Thanks
 
Not trying to be a "snowflake" type here but referring to rust as cancer on a forum with mostly older guys is not very good. I wince at the word like any guy does when he thinks of Lorena Bobbitt.
 
Just so we are clear, are you talking about the area with the holes drilled for spot welding (just the rear side, not the front side shown in this pic)?
SA327_FULLBOOK_MoparBBody_Page_053_Image_0001-1.jpg
 
You post you do not wish to deal with this again in a couple years.
That leaves only one option, cut all the rust away to good steel and weld in new.
If you have a few pin holes the back side is rusty farther than you want to see.
One way to repair is getting some used rust free late model fender arches and finding a couple that come close to your body lines.

At our shop we save dented late model fender arches just for rust repair. saves time from starting with flat steel and a break.
Most body shops just pitch any dented fenders, nobody wants to do any metal work anymore on late models , cheaper for the insurance co. to replace.
Stop by a couple shops and see if you can surf their scrap pile. :D
 
Not trying to be a "snowflake" type here but referring to rust as cancer on a forum with mostly older guys is not very good. I wince at the word like any guy does when he thinks of Lorena Bobbitt.
It's a northeast thing. The words cancer and rust are interchangeable when it comes to cars.
 
You post you do not wish to deal with this again in a couple years.
That leaves only one option, cut all the rust away to good steel and weld in new.
If you have a few pin holes the back side is rusty farther than you want to see.
One way to repair is getting some used rust free late model fender arches and finding a couple that come close to your body lines.

At our shop we save dented late model fender arches just for rust repair. saves time from starting with flat steel and a break.
Most body shops just pitch any dented fenders, nobody wants to do any metal work anymore on late models , cheaper for the insurance co. to replace.
Stop by a couple shops and see if you can surf their scrap pile. :D
Good idea on picking the scrap piles at body shops, thanks. I've had to rebuild fender legs, ect on stuff that isn't available. I've always found something close enough at the junkyards.
 
It's a northeast thing. The words cancer and rust are interchangeable when it comes to cars.
It isn't limited to you guys. I've heard it out here too.
Again, I'm not one to be offended easily. I am usually the one offending others.
Good luck with the car.
 
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