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Modern stereo system in a B Body - options/ideas

I contacted Crutchfield and discussed this (via a chat app) and got some recommendations. The stereo is a Pinoeer FHS700BS and produces peak 50 watts x 4 channels/RMS 14 watts x 4 channels.

Obviously I am not a stereo guy, however I do think he needs an amp at least. I am thinking about using a retrosound 4x10 front speaker, then a restorsound component set of 2 mids and 2 tweeters up front with crossovers. I intended to put 6x9's in the rear and use an amp as well as a small sub. This is a station wagon so there is a lot of space in there.
 
There are some really nice systems going on here.
Also good advice!

This is what I did in my car. Since the radio is a DIN sized opening.... I picked up a head unit. I used a Kenwood but that and the other choices of equipment are up to you. Go high quality and be happier in the long run.

The speakers in the kick panels (or the doors like I did ) and rear deck are Infinity Kappa series. (Higher power handling abilities.) The sub woofer I made a box for and it is a 10 Pioneer. Which is ample. The rear (6X9) of course are as large as you can go before customizing the rear deck and front speakers (6-1/2) are about as big as I could fit in the door.

(I also added a Kenwood equalizer that controls the front, rear & sub woofer independently. (It’s that ‘80’s thing in a ‘79 car... very retro, works MINT!)

I used the amps that I had on hand. If I was to do it from scratch, it would be a single amp capable of powering the 4 speakers and a sub woofer. It is expensive but much better that way as well as cleaner installation and less wires.

Just look at the power handling specs of the speakers. Take note of the powers RMS rating. (That’s the constant power handling without issues) and match it to the amp or, make sure the amp has the power to reach that RMS itself.

Even though you don’t want loud, the more power behind the speakers from a capable & quality amp will produce a better sound quality than one that will struggle to reach a decent sound level and for long periods of time when your on the road traveling.

It’s like having a huge and powerful engine only making use of it power when needed. It’s always there, though it maybe seldom used. It’s better to have the ability on tap than wishing you had it later.

Enjoy!


Here is the deal, I am working on a 69 Plymouth wagon hotrod for a friend, its got a 440 6 pack and a 4 speed already. I've installed 4 wheel disc brakes and an EFI 6 pack (Fitech tri power). I am now working towards doing the wiring and as a part of this I am tasked with figuring out the stereo.

The goal is to have clean sound, not necessarily loud but clean. The car's owner has provided me a Pioneer double DIN head unit which obviously will not fit into the dash, however I am thinking about installing the new gauges I got into the original radio position (like many do) and building an under dash mini console to house the stereo as well as the fitech hand held (as well as some USB chargers and perhaps some other things).

What I am having issues with is speakers and speaker placement. Obviously there is the spot for the center dash speaker, but in this car there isn't a package tray so there is that. The owner doesnt want any boxes or anything, but is thinking about building an upper "boxes" that run along the roof so he can put in some indirect lighting and we are thinking of putting some small speakers in that for the rear.

The owner does not want speakers in the doors (he used to have them and doesn't want them any longer) I could possible build some speakers into the mini console and angle them back and up, but it would depend on the speaker.

I am looking for ideas, information, etc. as I am sure there are some "stereo" guys on here that can assist.
 
I think I have a working battle plan here for this car, much of it is going to depend on placement and access of the various speakers. At present, my thought is to go with the components I described previously. I may not need an amp or sub, however if I do not use at least the amp I am going to be limited to 2 speakers in the front and 2 in the rear powered from the head unit. If I use an amp, then I have more flexibility in driving more speakers. In this car due to the length and open environment, I think component speakers (mids, tweeters) up front with coaxials in the rear should produce some decent sound quality.

The main issue I have to think through is whether putting the mids in the doors is going to be of value or not. The tweeters I think I can put into the A pillar covers.
 
Placement Of components speakers are critical, and that’s all I’ll say about that.

If you’re going to have the head unit power the speakers, I would say that is a huge mistake. However, if you wish to stick to your guns on that, I hope it works out for you. I really don’t think you’ll be happy.

Co axles up front at the min. but would rather a friend axle on front and rear. The multiple speakers (axles) are limited in there sound making ability per speaker making them like a specialist doctor rather than a GP. Power handling goes up due to that as well.

I hate to say this, but, spend the money on the higher quality more capable and diverse ability speakers and amp that will easily clear the high jump and then some.
 
Thanks for the information/comments. I am not committed to powering the speakers via the head unit, however someone suggested that and it is an option.

Personally I am pretty sure I am going to use at least a 2 channel amp but I think a 4 channel would be better. The head unit will support up to a 6 channel amp.

The speakers are really my issue because obviously they are what delivers the sound; poor selection and/or location will dramatically affect the performance, but I am limited in where I can put them, so I need to optimize the speaker selection in type and size while understanding where I can put them.
 
Its relatively easy,highs and mid range sound more clearly when they are pointed at the ears. Low range frequency can be hidden because it radiates.
 
The trick in one of these cars is getting the speakers to point at the occupants, not an easy task.
 
The trick in one of these cars is getting the speakers to point at the occupants, not an easy task.
Absolutely I agree glad I'm not doing it. Making modern systems blend with a 50 year old car is tough.
 
I've got a 68 Coronet Wagon that I installed a 2014 Chrysler 200 console between the 2014 Altima buckets It all fit with very little effort. I installed 2 amps, one drives the subwoofer and the other runs two 6x9's that I installed in small speaker boxes that I purchased and two tweeters. I ran the wiring out of the way but allowed moving the 6x9's when I need to fold the seats (I haven't decided on a more permanent spot for them). The subwoofer mounts under the rear facing seat. I then used PVC end caps to fab a set of tweeters and mounted them to the center console. I mounted the single DIN unit in place of the factory radio. I recently redid a few things and mounted one amp on the firewall above the trans tunnel and the other on the underside of the dash frame roof. Then installed Vintage Air and ran the wiring for Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. Next is the engine swap. I buy all my stereo equipment from Crutchfield. Let me know if you need specifics.
 
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As mentioned I had to remount the amps and the head unit for the a/c install.
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I am wrapping up the interior mods so it looks messy. The head unit was previously located in the glove box. For anyone who is looking for a stronger glove box insert, Vintage Air's kit comes with a plastic molded one that fits ok but a heat gun makes it fit better. They may sell it separately.
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Thanks. I was surprised at how well it fit. Just needed to figure how to mount it.
 
I have a Memphis sound hidden radio, with a 5 channel infinity amp, a 6" bazooka tube with infinity 6x9 in rear deck infinity 5 1/4 mounted in speaker pods at the kick panels, and I made a plate to fit the dash speaker opening with 2 infinity 3" round speakers. Everything plays through Bluetooth on my phone. I only have one complaint you have a volume almost too low to hear then next level is just a touch loud to talk, but when I am alone it is really clean, and the bass is good, yes it can go loud but I don't need loud
 
I need a check on my current plant to see if I am screwing this up or not; to recap for those just joining; I am trying to put a decent stereo system into a 69 Ply Wagon. The owner has given me a head unit which is a Pioneer double DIN unit which I intend to put into a console/dash extension (basically under the dash).

Here is what I am currently planning to do (and what i need some advice on);

1. I am going to use a 4 channel amp to power 4 4x10 speakers that will be near the roof
2. I am going to use a low profile subwoofer under the seat
3. I am going to install 2 mids (one in each door) and 2 tweeters (located somewhere pointed at the driver/passenger) with built in cross overs and drive them with the head unit or possibly with the amp
3. I am going to run a dual element 4x10 center speaker powered by the head unit

I have no doubt I am screwing this up which is why I am posting this. Let me say this up front, while I am after "good" sound quality I am not looking for a killer stereo or thumping sound system. So, while this may not be perfect in comparison to some others, I am looking for glaring mistakes I am about to make.

Thanks in advance.
 
So I purchased a RetroSound head unit and I highly recommend Kickers CS speakers. I have 2 6x9 in the shelf, and in place of the 4x7 I have 2 3-1/2". I planned on installing 2 6.5s in door pods. But may be changing my mind after the initial test in my system. I also bought an 8" powered sub, my amp is a 4 channel that currently is powering just the 6x9s, the 3-1/2s are powered off the head unit. I havent even tried to dial it in yet...and again this is without the 6.5s and about 25%.
If you mount your speakers in any panels buy a foam baffle to set it in, it really helps focus the sound and keeps the tinie soundto a min.


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