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Anybody use Moroso 62192 degree wheel

....just out of curiosity, do you build a lot of engines? If you do...this is a good unit....if not, I'd go with a $29 jobber.
 
David Stillie said:
No I don't build alot of engines. Just for my own stuff. The bigger wheel is easier to read, important when you're old!
Click to expand...
.....well, yes sir. That's a good call. Question. What cam are we degreeing?
 
I used a Comp Cams XS268S in my 440. It's their smallest solid lifter cam. Works very well for me. Idle is fairly smooth. Gobs of torque.
 
David Stillie said:
No I don't build alot of engines. Just for my own stuff. The bigger wheel is easier to read, important when you're old!
Click to expand...
Boy, Howdy that says it all! What we easily discerned by quick glance at 30 sure ain´t the same sure view at 70!! ;-)

Now though slightly canted off topic:
Any good instructions to use a degree wheel to decipher what the current in engine cam specifications are?
Me; lots of aircraft engine overhaul time - experience, BUT not a heck of a lot on car stuff. This is my first Mopar engine (67 440HP from my 67 Charger .... which has a deceasing oil pump).
 
Been using an 11" for many years but the bigger the wheel, the better the accuracy is......
 
I have an 11" Jegs version, for the few times I use it. Bigger would be easier to read(slightly more accurate).
 
someoneanywhere said:
Boy, Howdy that says it all! What we easily discerned by quick glance at 30 sure ain´t the same sure view at 70!! ;-)

Now though slightly canted off topic:
Any good instructions to use a degree wheel to decipher what the current in engine cam specifications are?
Me; lots of aircraft engine overhaul time - experience, BUT not a heck of a lot on car stuff. This is my first Mopar engine (67 440HP from my 67 Charger .... which has a deceasing oil pump).
Click to expand...

Larger is easier to read / split degrees, and good if engine is on engine stand. If swapping cams in the car, need the smaller diameter to clear the k-member / frame, and such.
Be careful handling and storing degree wheel so they stay flat. If they wobble it makes it hard to read also.
Simple cam check. set tapped dial indicator to zero in the base of the cam lobe. Bring tappet lift to 0.050" or whatever spec tappet lift you want to check.
If not interested in installed centerline, just set the degree wheel to Zero @ 0.050" Rotate to max tapped lift and record max lobe lift. Continue to rotate to 0.050" before tapped is back on base circle. Read the duration. If you set degree wheel at zero, then the duration from zero is the duration spec for @ 0.050".
If you want to know install centerline, and LSA, you will need to set the degree wheel to zero when the piston is at TDC, then do the math of adding the duration before TDC to the duration after TDC. Depending on the degree wheel, may need to convert ABDC duration by adding 180 for the duration from 0 to 180.
 
Buy a magnifying glass unless you've got money to burn. MO
 
451Mopar said:
Larger is easier to read / split degrees, and good if engine is on engine stand. If swapping cams in the car, need the smaller diameter to clear the k-member / frame, and such.
Be careful handling and storing degree wheel so they stay flat. If they wobble it makes it hard to read also.
Simple cam check. set tapped dial indicator to zero in the base of the cam lobe. Bring tappet lift to 0.050" or whatever spec tappet lift you want to check.
If not interested in installed centerline, just set the degree wheel to Zero @ 0.050" Rotate to max tapped lift and record max lobe lift. Continue to rotate to 0.050" before tapped is back on base circle. Read the duration. If you set degree wheel at zero, then the duration from zero is the duration spec for @ 0.050".
If you want to know install centerline, and LSA, you will need to set the degree wheel to zero when the piston is at TDC, then do the math of adding the duration before TDC to the duration after TDC. Depending on the degree wheel, may need to convert ABDC duration by adding 180 for the duration from 0 to 180.
Click to expand...

Good description. I learned early that checking the intake centerline was worth the effort. Had couple cams that were off a couple degrees from the card. Also had one timing set that was easy to get one tooth off, checking centerline shows that real clear.
 
I've found that on a stand once it's set up and I've understood the cam card it doesn't take very long.
I do it 3 times to be sure.
The last one we did on my son's truck was almost 6 degrees retarded, had to get a different timing set.
 
If your really board with this COVID-19, you can profile the cam taking measurements every crank degree. Enter into spreadsheet and align the same lifts on opening and closing, and see how Intake centerline varies slightly depending on where the measurements are taken on the lobe.
 
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