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Roof Rust Pitting

Jhn824

Jhn824

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Hey guys...just finished stripping the roof on my 65 Belvedere... its in great shape except for some pitted spots... one pretty good size.(see pictures)... the inside of the roof is clean in the same spots... so its all external. any of you guys with more restoration and body experience than me ( probably most of you) have any suggestions... short of replacing roof?... also is it typical for the front 2/3 of the roof to be a little "oil canny" on these early bbodies?... or is that another issue I need to deal with?... any help is greatly appreciated!

IMG_20200630_190248289_BURST001.jpg IMG_20200630_190234073_BURST001.jpg
 
Was that a vinyl roof? It looks fine for doing any sheet metal repairs it might need. If mine looked that good I certainly would not have replaced it.
 
Moparfeind said:
Was that a vinyl roof? It looks fine for doing any sheet metal repairs it might need. If mine looked that good I certainly would not have replaced it.
Click to expand...
no..not a vinyl top...I wonder if it might have spent some time in the hot sun somewhere...
 
Jhn824 said:
no..not a vinyl top...I wonder if it might have spent some time in the hot sun somewhere...
Click to expand...

...With a tarp on it. That's what I had on my car. Someone had used a tarp on it at one time and placed something like a five gallon bucket on it. Only had pitting in that area.

The pitting should be sand blasted if possible and then you could use a epoxy primer. Then a skim coat of filler over the pitting. Maybe even a sandable filler primer could be used in place of a filler with several coats.

A rust encapsulator could be used over what you have there without sand blasting, then a sealer/primer. If there isn't any adhesion in the pits because of corrosion it could cause problems during painting or later on they could start popping through the cured paint. I'm not up to date on what's available out there anymore. Might be something else.
 
Why does the metal look wet? Wax and grease remover?

Do what @khryslerkid says. Clean, epoxy, fill. I would use a high build primer and block. I’ve also had good success with a ZChrome product called Rust Defender.
 
I had an issue like that on my ot 54' under the belt line trim. I used that rust converter stuff that turns it black but it didn't sit well with me for some reason. I grabbed a cheapo hand held spot blaster from Harbor Freight and some clean ,dry sand. I did the couple of spots i had, and felt much,much better about it. The whole car was being done so it was hit with epoxy primer, not problems what so ever.Glad i took the extra time it was cheap insurance. Also i used Evercoat Metal glaze on the pin hole areas to fill.
 
69L48Z27 said:
Why does the metal look wet? Wax and grease remover?

Do what @khryslerkid says. Clean, epoxy, fill. I would use a high build primer and block. I’ve also had good success with a ZChrome product called Rust Defender.
Click to expand...
I had just washed it down with an acid wash.
 
Thanks for the help guys...great idea about the sandblasting/ sandblaster... im imnna try that.... what do yall think about the flex in the top... it has a formed bend about 2/3 back... behind the bend its good and firm... but in front of the bend... its got a little flex... is that typical for these cars? ( its my first early b body)
 
I just did a truck where there was zero paint left on it but was really solid, I sanded it all down then treated it with a 2 step SEM treatment then epoxy. For that small of area's I'd sandblast them carefully with minimal pressure taking care not to warp it.
 
p31079ZP.jpg

Use Eurosoft Glazing Putty as a final step to fill pinholes and small imperfections before painting. 1.25 lbs of working material. An extra strong polyester glazing putty. Ideally suited for repairs subject to stress and impact, such as door edges, fender edges, body seams and flexible bumpers. It is a smooth formula with extra working time for use in warm weather and glazing large areas. Contains ZNX-7(tm) for superior adhesion to galvanized steel, bare steel, aluminum, SMC, E-coat and OEM finishes. Blue cream hardener included.
 
Jhn824 said:
what do yall think about the flex in the top... it has a formed bend about 2/3 back... behind the bend its good and firm... but in front of the bend... its got a little flex... is that typical for these cars? ( its my first early b body)
Click to expand...

See if the bracing under it is touching. I'm thinking the factory used a durable cardboard in between the braces and the sheeting just in that area.
 
khryslerkid said:
See if the bracing under it is touching. I'm thinking the factory used a durable cardboard in between the braces and the sheeting just in that area.
Click to expand...
Yes.. your right.. there is one brace across the center... and part of the card board is missing... I will have to find something to go in there... but even then... its its s a little "oil canny" in front and behind the brace... If thats typical with these cars... I can deal with it... but if not may need to try shrinking it... which I really hate to do.. esp on a roof!
 
Jhn824 said:
Yes.. your right.. there is one brace across the center... and part of the card board is missing... I will have to find something to go in there... but even then... its its s a little "oil canny" in front and behind the brace... If thats typical with these cars... I can deal with it... but if not may need to try shrinking it... which I really hate to do.. esp on a roof!
Click to expand...
If the roof panel is in good shape it's scary messing with it. I've never done this but was thinking that maybe bonding some stiffer material to the underside ( assuming the headliner is out) would take away the oil canning. Not conventional but who cares if it works.
 
Wonder if boom mat or a product like it. Fiberglass plus epoxy on inside open areas, little messy but will strengthen sheet part of roof. If you only had a few square feet wouldn't be to bad.
 
I bought an AMX hood on ebay about 15 years ago. It was covered in grey primer which is always a red flag; but it was straight and solid, and I had an AMX with a rotted hood. Anyway, under the primer the hood had pretty serious pitting from corner to corner.

I went old school on it, softening the rust with naval jelly and digging it out with a wire wheel; followed up with epoxy primer

I still have the hood, it has lived outside; nothing has come through
 
eldubb440 said:
I bought an AMX hood on ebay about 15 years ago. It was covered in grey primer which is always a red flag; but it was straight and solid, and I had an AMX with a rotted hood. Anyway, under the primer the hood had pretty serious pitting from corner to corner.

I went old school on it, softening the rust with naval jelly and digging it out with a wire wheel; followed up with epoxy primer

I still have the hood, it has lived outside; nothing has come through
Click to expand...
I hear ya on the being covered in primer being bad news...this car was covered in primer....and as it turns out tons of filler!!.. put in places where who knows why!?! last car I ever buy in primer! .. thanks for the info on your repair.
 
Jhn824 said:
Yes.. your right.. there is one brace across the center... and part of the card board is missing... I will have to find something to go in there... but even then... its its s a little "oil canny" in front and behind the brace... If thats typical with these cars... I can deal with it... but if not may need to try shrinking it... which I really hate to do.. esp on a roof!
Click to expand...

My '62 has two braces. Ma Mopar cutting corners? But the '62 doesn't have the "Buggy Roof" crease either for some support.
20180127_104622.jpg
 
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