• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Clutch/flywheel combo HELP!

Steve009

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
11:32 AM
Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
929
Reaction score
842
Location
Ottawa
Need some help with this one. I have a 64 Plymouth with a 383 4 speed. Looking to replace the clutch/pressure plate, and flywheel. I know I have the 23 spline A833 out of a 68 RR. I’m a real novice when it comes to anything transmission related. Firstly flywheel sizing. If I want to replace the flywheel because of hot spots can an 11” flywheel fit on a car that came with the 10.4” or whatever it was. Does that make a difference? I’m assuming mine is the smaller size. Next, are there multiple size pressure plates and clutches depending on flywheel size or is it just based on 23 vs 18 spline shafts? Not a clue here. Thanks for all the help in advance.

-Steve
 
Basically there is a 11" and a 10.5"; you can either size with a 23 or 18 spline. You need the right size pressure plate and clutch for the flywheel you have. You do not have to buy a new flywheel, any reputable machine shop can cut it and clean it up which is probably the best way course of action because you know it fits.

As to pressure plates and clutches, there are many choices out there, just be careful not to get sucked into some high speed, gee whiz deal; just go with a good company like Mcleod, Ram, etc. I usually try and get a set (clutch and pressure plate). You will need to know what size flywheel you have which will require you to measure it.
 
Basically there is a 11" and a 10.5"; you can either size with a 23 or 18 spline. You need the right size pressure plate and clutch for the flywheel you have. You do not have to buy a new flywheel, any reputable machine shop can cut it and clean it up which is probably the best way course of action because you know it fits.

As to pressure plates and clutches, there are many choices out there, just be careful not to get sucked into some high speed, gee whiz deal; just go with a good company like Mcleod, Ram, etc. I usually try and get a set (clutch and pressure plate). You will need to know what size flywheel you have which will require you to measure it.

so no real performance differences in the sizing here? It’s simply your car had a 10.5 or an 11” and just buy the matching clutch/pressure plate to fit?
 
Look at Brewers performance site. I have the 10.95 clutch in my 64 dodge from them without having to go to the factory 11" system.
 
Look at Brewers performance site. I have the 10.95 clutch in my 64 dodge from them without having to go to the factory 11" system.

so the 10.95 clutch worked on a 10.5” flywheel?
 
All things being equal, the 11" setup gives more surface gripping area than the 10.5"
so it would have higher holding strength, i.e. be rated for more hp/tq.
That's part of why the 10.95" clutch deal makes sense on the 10.5" flywheel if it works
with it, for example.
Same sort of deal as with brakes - the more "swept area", the more holding power.

Biggest advice I can give someone with a stock clutch setup is to get that dang flywheel
sorted out! Get the one you have checked and resurfaced if it has the metal left in it to
stay within tolerance!
The guy I paid to install my 18 spline 4 speed, along with new Ram B&B clutch, did NOT
feel the need to get the flywheel resurfaced (and it was a new 11" heavy-assed factory unit,
so it would have turned just fine at the machine shop).
As a result, I deal with a chattery clutch on take-offs now. DAMMIT.
 
This is what I recently installed in my ‘64 and am very happy with
spacer.gif

spacer.gif
hay-85-301_s.jpg
spacer.gif
HAY-85-301
Clutch Kit, Organic, 1 in. Diameter Shaft, 23-Spline, 10.5 in. Diameter Disc, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, Kit
(Mfr. #: 85-301)
spacer.gif

Ready to Ship
Ground

spacer.gif
$427.95
spacer.gif
1
spacer.gif
$427.95
spacer.gif

spacer.gif

spacer.gif

spacer.gif
ram-1503_hn_s.jpg
spacer.gif
RAM-1503
Flywheel, Billet Steel, 130-Tooth, Internal Engine Balance, 29.000 lbs., SFI 1.1, Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth, V8, Each
(Mfr. #: 1503)
spacer.gif

Ready to Ship
Ground

spacer.gif
$305.00
 
Need some help with this one. I have a 64 Plymouth with a 383 4 speed. Looking to replace the clutch/pressure plate, and flywheel. I know I have the 23 spline A833 out of a 68 RR. I’m a real novice when it comes to anything transmission related. Firstly flywheel sizing. If I want to replace the flywheel because of hot spots can an 11” flywheel fit on a car that came with the 10.4” or whatever it was. Does that make a difference? I’m assuming mine is the smaller size. Next, are there multiple size pressure plates and clutches depending on flywheel size or is it just based on 23 vs 18 spline shafts? Not a clue here. Thanks for all the help in advance.

-Steve
I'm pretty sure if your car came with the 10.4 flywheel? A 11" flywheel won't fit in the bellhousing. You will need the bigger bellhousing as well.
 
All things being equal, the 11" setup gives more surface gripping area than the 10.5"
so it would have higher holding strength, i.e. be rated for more hp/tq.
That's part of why the 10.95" clutch deal makes sense on the 10.5" flywheel if it works
with it, for example.
Same sort of deal as with brakes - the more "swept area", the more holding power.

Biggest advice I can give someone with a stock clutch setup is to get that dang flywheel
sorted out! Get the one you have checked and resurfaced if it has the metal left in it to
stay within tolerance!
The guy I paid to install my 18 spline 4 speed, along with new Ram B&B clutch, did NOT
feel the need to get the flywheel resurfaced (and it was a new 11" heavy-assed factory unit,
so it would have turned just fine at the machine shop).
As a result, I deal with a chattery clutch on take-offs now. DAMMIT.
Have you tried stationary clutch engagement (against a stationary object -tree for example)? I have found in some cases a little burning will eliminate the chatter. You don't have much to lose at this point.
Mike
 
....If I want to replace the flywheel because of hot spots can an 11” flywheel fit on a car that came with the 10.4” or whatever it was....
FWIW, When one mentions "11" flywheel" I relate that to the 143 tooth fly wheel, not the 130. Not interchangeable with the same bell due to physical diameter and starter boss locations.
Even some "scalloped 11" or "10.95" clutch sets, which fit the 130 tooth wheel, can be too tall for some older bells. So you should really determine exactly what you have presently.

Some on the "10.95" / scalloped" from MP....
upload_2020-7-9_8-23-15.png
 
FWIW, When one mentions "11" flywheel" I relate that to the 143 tooth fly wheel, not the 130. Not interchangeable with the same bell due to physical diameter and starter boss locations.
Even some "scalloped 11" or "10.95" clutch sets, which fit the 130 tooth wheel, can be too tall for some older bells. So you should really determine exactly what you have presently.

Some on the "10.95" / scalloped" from MP....
View attachment 973174
I wasn’t sure what size flywheel I had so I took everything apart before I ordered anything but you make a good point on the flywheel tooth count. Had I counted mine I could have ordered things ahead of time.
 
All things being equal, the 11" setup gives more surface gripping area than the 10.5"
so it would have higher holding strength, i.e. be rated for more hp/tq.
That's part of why the 10.95" clutch deal makes sense on the 10.5" flywheel if it works
with it, for example.
Same sort of deal as with brakes - the more "swept area", the more holding power.

Biggest advice I can give someone with a stock clutch setup is to get that dang flywheel
sorted out! Get the one you have checked and resurfaced if it has the metal left in it to
stay within tolerance!
The guy I paid to install my 18 spline 4 speed, along with new Ram B&B clutch, did NOT
feel the need to get the flywheel resurfaced (and it was a new 11" heavy-assed factory unit,
so it would have turned just fine at the machine shop).
As a result, I deal with a chattery clutch on take-offs now. DAMMIT.

I know what you mean. A chattery clutch is what got me into this. Miserable!
 
Have you tried stationary clutch engagement (against a stationary object -tree for example)? I have found in some cases a little burning will eliminate the chatter. You don't have much to lose at this point.
Mike
I gotta admit, I've never subjected a car to that sort of thing.
Done it a time or two on tractors to get their clutches un-seized. :)
 
FWIW, When one mentions "11" flywheel" I relate that to the 143 tooth fly wheel, not the 130. Not interchangeable with the same bell due to physical diameter and starter boss locations.
Even some "scalloped 11" or "10.95" clutch sets, which fit the 130 tooth wheel, can be too tall for some older bells. So you should really determine exactly what you have presently.

Some on the "10.95" / scalloped" from MP....
View attachment 973174
As do I.

The 68-69 B/RB motors w/4speed used a 11” clutch w/143 tooth flywheel with a cast iron bell housing, part# 28922262 and 2892626.

The “70-74 B/RB motors w/4speed used a 10.95 clutch w/130 tooth flywheel which is the same flywheel used for the 10.5 clutch. This was the aluminum bell housing, part# 2892513.

‘68 B/RB #2892262:

2892262.jpg


‘69 B/RB #2892626:

2892626.jpg


‘70-73 B/RB #2892513.

70-71bbodybell.jpg
 
Last edited:
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top