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neutral safety switch. 70 roadrunner.

skrambler

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First off, sorry for the following dumb question! I believe I am in need of a new neutral safety switch. For quite some time, if I had no power at the ignition switch I could move the column shifter from the "Park" position, to the "neutral" position and she would crank right over. Looks like now this is even becoming a problem!
It is a numbers matching 383 with a column shift 727.
Now for the dumb questions....Where is this switch located? Photos? Are these switches available? and if so where would you recommend? OR, could this be a totally different problem?
Thanks guys!
 
The switch you speak of is located at the rear of the transmission on an automatic transmission.
Look for the wiring loom terminating at a 3-prong switch...that's the one.
 
BTW...removal of the switch will cause transmission fluid to pour out....best you either drain the trans first, or elevate the car sufficiently to face down hill.
 
Driver side of the transmission. Located behind the shifter rods on the transmission. In that car it should be a 3 pin NSS.

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Check the plug connection first both at the trans and bulkhead, if it's all gunked up from oil and crap clean it up with some brake clean then make sure to squeeze some dielectric grease on the pins. Make sure the connection is clean and tight before you start pulling and draining stuff. Work smarter not harder...
 
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The 3-prong connector can be difficult to remove / install.
If it is, try heating up the plastic with a hair dryer or heat gun. Don't set the car on fire.
 
I just replaced one in a 71 Roadrunner I thought it was my problem I thought it was my problem It wasn’t caution the replacement ones the pins not located correctly your three slot wire harness will not stay on. I sprayed wire cleaner on the two connections from the steering column to the wire harness I will try this first
 
Check the shift linkage for wear/maladjustment first. If it works in neutral it should do so in park position. It could also be a problem with the rooster comb inside although I've never seen one in my 50 odd years of working on Torqueflites.
Mike
 
Wow! What a wonderful Forum this is! You guys are the best! I will all of the above before actually attempting to replace the switch. The shift linkage is a bit sloppy but no more than it seems to have been for years. I will get to pulling and cleaning plug connections this weekend, with some luck! I will advise to what I find. Again, a big thank you!
 
Just went through something like this on my 70:Roadrunner if you ck the starter relay wires the one on an angle think it’s yellow goes to the bulkhead plug mine pulled out a little had to jump car with screwdriver of starter relay just had to clean and push that wire in a little
Good luck
 
Wow! What a wonderful Forum this is! You guys are the best! I will all of the above before actually attempting to replace the switch. The shift linkage is a bit sloppy but no more than it seems to have been for years. I will get to pulling and cleaning plug connections this weekend, with some luck! I will advise to what I find. Again, a big thank you!
Please do not use brake clean on any plastic wire connectors, will dry them out and cause them to become brittle and break.
 
O.K., I will save that can for another project! What is the best suggestion to use for cleaning those types of connectors please?
Thanks!
 
O.K., I will save that can for another project! What is the best suggestion to use for cleaning those types of connectors please?
Thanks!
I use electrical contact cleaner and have never had a problem. Most if not all hardware stores or auto parts stores carry at least 1 brand.
 
The 3-prong connector can be difficult to remove / install.
If it is, try heating up the plastic with a hair dryer or heat gun. Don't set the car on fire.

Removing the three prong connector question. Should this connector/connection simply pull away from the switch? Or, does it have clasps that need unlocked first? Been to busy and just now getting around to addressing my problems. Thank you.
 
Removing the three prong connector question. Should this connector/connection simply pull away from the switch? Or, does it have clasps that need unlocked first? Been to busy and just now getting around to addressing my problems. Thank you.
Just pull straight off.
Mike
 
Just pull straight off.
Mike


Well, was able to locate and pull off the switch lead. Or, should I better say, the cap just kinda fell off the switch! With electrical spray I cleaned both the cap and the switch, put the cap back on, again, it seemed to not be a real tight fit or a snap into place fit. Tried the key and everything seems to be fine! Not really trusting that caps fit at this time, but time will tell as to if it stays put or not!!! Thanks all for the info and your time.
 
Well, was able to locate and pull off the switch lead. Or, should I better say, the cap just kinda fell off the switch! With electrical spray I cleaned both the cap and the switch, put the cap back on, again, it seemed to not be a real tight fit or a snap into place fit. Tried the key and everything seems to be fine! Not really trusting that caps fit at this time, but time will tell as to if it stays put or not!!! Thanks all for the info and your time.

Replacement Connector #'s from Rock Auto
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS HP4755 $13.71
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S747 $17.01
ACDELCO PT2139 $21.89

If it is old and rusty / crusty, just replace it.
 
Hey 451! Thank you for that tidbit of info for a replacement! The original one is solid, but I was really expecting a bit of a fight to pull it off! I was simply shocked at how easy it just kinda fell out/off!
I assume that I would simply splice the new connector into the wiring harness by cutting into the original wires? Again, thanks you all. This is a wonderful site with lots of information and help for especially folks like me that are "shade tree" mechanics, at best!
 
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