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8 3/4 center swap out

DGE330/NC

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Ok i have a 1967 Plymouth Satellite with a 2.94 open carrier center section in a 741 case . i also have a 3.23 cone type center that's in a 489 case .if i pull the 2.94 and swap in the 489 case with the 3.23 center will i need to change axles also? or just put in green bearings and run it ?
 
It is a direct swap. You don't have to change anything, except you might need a conversion u joint, if the u joints are different. The speedometer pinion will need to be changed also.
 
Axles are the same so you don't need to change anything.
 
Hey DGE330/NC, just letting you know that
years ago I installed the "GREEN" Axle bearings from Mopar Performance, and they only lasted me about 3,800 miles before the driver side took a dump.
It didn't seize up, but started to growl at me,lol.
You could also feel it dragging badly, when pushing the car around shop, or when coasting.
I changed them both, even with only one being shot.
I sold the car about 1800-2000 miles later, and the next owner had to change the axle bearings very soon after buying the car.
(He had me replace them with another set of Green bearings)

Since then I have read about some few guys having issues, with the "GREEN" axle bearings, when used on the street. (this again was YEARS ago)
I have been told they were originally made for drag racing use, straight line driving, and they aren't strong enough to handle prolonged side loading forces when street driven, around turns.
This was in 2002-2007, that I had my issues
I am not sure if they have changed the design of them, or if I got a bad few sets?
I know a LOT of guys run the GREEN bearings, so maybe it was just the Mopar Performance ones that are/were bad.
I am not sure but, I am just passing on what I experanced and I have read, to give you a heads up.
Because of my past issues, I personally wont run them again, I just use the factory ones.

Maybe other guys can chime in, with some advice, if they have had similar issues, or they know if they have improved them.
Good luck with rear carrier swap, no mater what axle bearing you decide to run.
 
Hey DGE330/NC, just letting you know that
years ago I installed the "GREEN" Axle bearings from Mopar Performance, and they only lasted me about 3,800 miles before the driver side took a dump.
It didn't seize up, but started to growl at me,lol.
You could also feel it dragging badly, when pushing the car around shop, or when coasting.
I changed them both, even with only one being shot.
I sold the car about 1800-2000 miles later, and the next owner had to change the axle bearings very soon after buying the car.
(He had me replace them with another set of Green bearings)

Since then I have read about some few guys having issues, with the "GREEN" axle bearings, when used on the street. (this again was YEARS ago)
I have been told they were originally made for drag racing use, straight line driving, and they aren't strong enough to handle prolonged side loading forces when street driven, around turns.
This was in 2002-2007, that I had my issues
I am not sure if they have changed the design of them, or if I got a bad few sets?
I know a LOT of guys run the GREEN bearings, so maybe it was just the Mopar Performance ones that are/were bad.
I am not sure but, I am just passing on what I experanced and I have read, to give you a heads up.
Because of my past issues, I personally wont run them again, I just use the factory ones.

Maybe other guys can chime in, with some advice, if they have had similar issues, or they know if they have improved them.
Good luck with rear carrier swap, no mater what axle bearing you decide to run.

Green bearings are ball bearings, factory bearings are tapered roller bearings. There's a world of difference between the two. Don't use green bearings unless you have a specific need and understand the expected life.
 
Green bearings, love 'em or hate 'em. No in between.
 
When it comes time to change the bearings, stay factory and keep the superior designed tapered rollers. They are lubricated with an axle grease manually, so this is a great time to clean and repack the axle bearings. Most people have never done it.
 

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In my case they came with my rear disc brake kit, and were needed in order to run the rear caliper bracket so I installed them. I had no idea they would not last for street use.
I learned the hard way.
Had I known, I would have at least kept a spare set handy.
 
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Not to highjack, but just for my own curiosity, will the green axle bearings, reduce the rolling resistance vs the factory tapered bearings?

I read about guys with street cars swapping to the GREEN axle bearings all the time, like it is a must do performance upgrade, and for me, and my goal of driving my car on the street, AS MUCH AS I CAN, I wont use them again.
 
Ok i have a 1967 Plymouth Satellite with a 2.94 open carrier center section in a 741 case . i also have a 3.23 cone type center that's in a 489 case .if i pull the 2.94 and swap in the 489 case with the 3.23 center will i need to change axles also? or just put in green bearings and run it ?
Your speedometer will read about 10% faster with the 3.23's so not that much of a biggie. At least it'll keep you from speeding maybe :D If you don't have to use the Green bearings, then don't. Ford and others used ball bearings for the axles for years but the tapered roller is superior to the ball especially with side loading but the Greens do use a bit less horse power. And many years ago and sometimes it still happens.....the Green bearings are sealed and if they've been on a shelf for years on end, the grease will dry up and the life of the bearing suffers. Also, if you like to burn corners, you'll like the tapered bearing better. I ran a mid 10 second car with the Greens in the mid 80's and they were fine after over 300 passes but it was mostly straight line running......:)
 
I'd grease the bearings while they're accessible.

...but unless they're howling, obviously burnt, or you can catch a fingernail on the race- leave them.
 
The "Green" ball bearing style is better for drag racing that has minimal side load. Tapered are fine for street use, the carrier swap is no problem, set the side pre load & check the inner seal.
 
I read about guys with street cars swapping to the GREEN axle bearings all the time, like it is a must do performance upgrade,

Usually done by people who don't want to deal with the adjusters on factory bearing. Definitely not an "upgrade".
 
Usually done by people who don't want to deal with the adjusters on factory bearing. Definitely not an "upgrade".
Bingo, the only reason to change is to save 15 minutes worth of adjusting.
 
Think about durability. The tapered roller bearings will stand up to normal road use much better than a ball bearing.
 
Actually, if you do a disc brake conversion, you have to go with a ball bearing. And like mentioned above, it was also a drag race deal for those that wanted to get rid of every ounce of parasitic drag and yeah, there are some that just don't want to mess with the adjusters. Guess I was one of the lucky ones that had a mentor for some of my dealings with cars but a lot of it was learned from books and plain old messing up.
 
Actually, if you do a disc brake conversion, you have to go with a ball bearing.

I used to think that too but then it dawned on me that the front wheel bearings can be adjusted to zero end play or even a little preload with no ill effects.

Doc Diff offers rear disc kits that work with factory bearings.
 
A friend convinced me that the Green bearings were the way to go when I restored my 67 Satellite back in the early '90s - of course he was a drag racer. They lasted about 25k miles of street driving over 20+ years and then started to howl - compared to over 110k miles on the originals that were still in good condition. They also made a clunking noise when cornering hard which I never liked. I replaced them with the factory style bearings and all the rear end noise went away.
 
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