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Hooking with Leaf springs !

Canadian1968

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I've read that removing clamps from behind the tires on your leaf springs will allow to open up and help drive the tires downward to hook. And vice versa clamping the fronts to try and avoid any bending or separation . On a street/strip car will you notice anything with regular driving by unclamping the back of the springs ?

And is there a huge benifit in moving to a mono leaf design even if running a street tire ?
 
I've read that removing clamps from behind the tires on your leaf springs will allow to open up and help drive the tires downward to hook. And vice versa clamping the fronts to try and avoid any bending or separation . On a street/strip car will you notice anything with regular driving by unclamping the back of the springs ?

And is there a huge benifit in moving to a mono leaf design even if running a street tire ?
My Roadrunner has been 90% street use. Now that I expect MUCH better traction, and it's actually going to stop and steer better than most other classic muscle cars, I'm sure the % of track usage is going to go up.
Although I didn't notice any "signs" that my factory "HD" Roadrunner leaf springs were badly worn out, I had strong suspicion that they were after I bent the heavy duty mounting bracket of Mancini's top of the line adjustable pinion snubber on the FIRST run I made after I installed it. On the 2nd run, it bent more and it was slightly rubbing on my rear diff pinion yoke and had to be removed. If I could only get one of my friends to learn how to shoot video of my car on the launch, I'd have to believe that I would have seen them wrapping up into a S on the launch.
I've had terrible problems with traction on the launch, and right now my Roadrunner is going through a ton of add ons to massively improve traction and all things associated with that, to resolve those issues so I can enjoy going to the track now, and in preparation for a 541 stroker motor I hope to have built and installed by next September 2021.
I got the Calvert split mono leaf springs, and the Calvert sliders, which normally lower the rear by 1/2". As another indication of how worn my factory springs were, the rear rose about 1½" overall!
I'm not sure what your best choices are for your situation, but I got the Calvert split mono leafs and once I had decided not to do a triangulated 4 link rear suspension, there was NO doubt that the Calvert split mono leafs were going to be part of the complete revision of the rear suspension of my Roadrunner.
 
My Roadrunner has been 90% street use. Now that I expect MUCH better traction, and it's actually going to stop and steer better than most other classic muscle cars, I'm sure the % of track usage is going to go up.
Although I didn't notice any "signs" that my factory "HD" Roadrunner leaf springs were badly worn out, I had strong suspicion that they were after I bent the heavy duty mounting bracket of Mancini's top of the line adjustable pinion snubber on the FIRST run I made after I installed it. On the 2nd run, it bent more and it was slightly rubbing on my rear diff pinion yoke and had to be removed. If I could only get one of my friends to learn how to shoot video of my car on the launch, I'd have to believe that I would have seen them wrapping up into a S on the launch.
I've had terrible problems with traction on the launch, and right now my Roadrunner is going through a ton of add ons to massively improve traction and all things associated with that, to resolve those issues so I can enjoy going to the track now, and in preparation for a 541 stroker motor I hope to have built and installed by next September 2021.
I got the Calvert split mono leaf springs, and the Calvert sliders, which normally lower the rear by 1/2". As another indication of how worn my factory springs were, the rear rose about 1½" overall!
I'm not sure what your best choices are for your situation, but I got the Calvert split mono leafs and once I had decided not to do a triangulated 4 link rear suspension, there was NO doubt that the Calvert split mono leafs were going to be part of the complete revision of the rear suspension of my Roadrunner.
Most supposed SS springs nowadays are junk, even for a pure street driven car. They sag at the sight of water in the bleach box. HD springs can be helped with HD clamps out front of the tire and won't affect street driving in a harsh way at all. I've driven both good SS springs and crappy off shore SS springs and no harsh affect on the driving. Perhaps a little firmer ride and or a slight list on the drivers side, but not unmanageable.
If you find an old NOS set of SS springs made during the 70's and mid to late 80's, they will work pretty darn decent on a street car. I've seen some good 60FT times both on the street and track with those.
If you have a decent budget, you can't go wrong with a set of Tri-City Launcher/ Landrum springs. Those things made my car into a scolded hare out of the hole.
 
On the '71 Charger the rear spring pack had an extra leaf added (both sides) that sits right under the main spring leaf, and extends forward towards the front bushing. The rear part of the spring just goes slightly longer than the regular spring that would have been next to the main leaf. Front and rear are clamped with the stock type spring clamps. Also have adjustable pinion snubber. Shocks are just the cheap KYBs which seem OK for a street car. For the track, the car really needs adjustable shocks. That extra leaf spring, pinion snubber, and poly bushings, and M/T Et radials. worked fine when the car was running 12's. In the 11's now, and the non-adjustable shocks and 0.96" T-bars just not transfer the weight for good traction.
 
my set up is HD springs I have kyb shocks on all corners except driver side rear I have an air shock car best 60 is 1.69 and ran 12.50 I also drive on street drives like a Cadillac when you start going faster then you need to update your suspension with better components I run a M/T 255 drag radial
 
my set up is HD springs I have kyb shocks on all corners except driver side rear I have an air shock car best 60 is 1.69 and ran 12.50 I also drive on street drives like a Cadillac when you start going faster then you need to update your suspension with better components I run a M/T 255 drag radial

That's about where I was at before the new engine (12.50s @ 110 MPH).
The new 500" Stroker is making the 60 foot worse because lack of traction / weight transfer. Only mid 11's @ 120 MPH. I say mid 11's because they are all over the place depending on traction, launch, rolling into the throttle, ect..
That's fine for me, it's a street car without a roll bar, so 11.50 is the limit without the added safety equipment, and I'm getting too old to climb around a roll cage.
Last part is just poking fun at my friend Dan who does not have passenger side swing out door bar in his car.
 
Sticky tires 1st. Decent shocks 2nd. Then start worrying about springs.
Doug
 
Unclamping the rear spring segments help. I did this in High School with a 318 Duster and got it to stick pretty good.

If you plan on upgrading, I would suggest going right to the Calvert split monos and Cal-Tracs. The current MP SS springs are weak and deform after about a year. Been there, done that.

I run a lot of different events with different tires and tuneups. I can make the car run 12.00 with a 400 tread wear tire with a 60 ft of 1.72 or I can do low 10's with a drag radial and a best of 1.37. Very happy with the way Calverts system works!
 
I bought my SS springs from Mancini around 2008 and put them on my 63. And they are just as I bought them as I have not modified them any since my car seems to hook fine for what it is. Not the fastest but a best 60 of 1.50 running 10.70's as I drive it. I like them as the car drives very nice on them and they work fine at the track. I am sure I could pick up a little 60 with the Cal Track setup but its not worth spending over $800 dollars to me on my budget for a tenth which is about all I think the Cal Tracs would be worth. Ron

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Thanks for the.comments . I am going to remove the clamps and see what happens . I have a set of bfg with 340 treadwear on the car now. Not any where close to a drag radial bUT not the worst tire either. Hoping to go the track tomorrow .
 
Thanks for the.comments . I am going to remove the clamps and see what happens . I have a set of bfg with 340 treadwear on the car now. Not any where close to a drag radial bUT not the worst tire either. Hoping to go the track tomorrow .
My 400 treadwear rear tires liked 20 psi. Experiment with pressure and put some weight in the trunk! Spare tires and wheels will do in a pinch.
 
After you get the car to hook,the control DA shocks provide are priceless!:thumbsup::nutkick:
Then my triple adjustable Viking Warriors should be awesome! Lol.
I hope Viking is good for tech support.
At around $600 a pair, I want to, I need to get the most out of my investment.
 
Hey hemi, did you move your rear shocks to the straight up position? Or still in stock position?.
 
Hey hemi, did you move your rear shocks to the straight up position? Or still in stock position?.
I know you asked Al and not me, but we built new upper mounts to get the shocks vertical and they seem to work much better.
 
I know you asked Al and not me, but we built new upper mounts to get the shocks vertical and they seem to work much better.
I should have just thrown it out there. I have been asking and talking to different folks about this issue. With as springs and relocated with sliders on the rear it only made since to make the shocks vertical to help plant better. I know the stock way is for corners but if running a straight line it seems the best.
 
we built new upper mounts to get the shocks vertical
relocated with sliders on the rear
I just had sliders installed, but I measured the stock location for my $611 rear Vikings...
For mostly street, but strip performance important car, how big of a difference is that, and :xscuseless:
 
Bio, I'm just gathering some input why are the shocks vertical and if they are is it better with ss springs or is the stock mount ok. With ladder bars and four link shocks go to vertical position. But yet with springs they're left in stock location even after springs are relocated they are not move to the vertical position. Now going vertical I would think having $600.00 pair of stocks you would get the tires to plant correctly and stop wheel hop. I also see where the bracket for shocks are mounted to rear axle so that changes up the planting of the rear tires. On the hit your axle should be solid hit and your weight transfer comes from the sliders. Folks am I wrong in this thought.
 
I know you asked Al and not me, but we built new upper mounts to get the shocks vertical and they seem to work much better.
So you have the shocks vertical to the most outside on top. Do you have pics 33 I'm at the point with mini tubs then the relocate kits goes in but while doing all this if I should move the top mount or do something with the rear axle. And find plates for the springs or just cut off bottom shock mount. Sorry didn't mean to steal the post. I'll make a new thread
 
My point is I just bought $600 shocks that are the correct length for the stock location, and I hope that isn't a big disadvantage. I don't know if they would also work should I decide to "go vertical" in the future...
I'm already invested in the Calvert split mono leaf springs, so I don't see changing that.
 
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