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Freeze plug blew out

Paul_G

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Drips of water on the garage floor after I parked the car. This is on my fresh 505 engine. The short block was assembled at the machine shop. The engine is fantastic by the way. Pulls like a freight train! I have only put about about 40 miles on it so far before this.

So, a freeze plug on the passenger side is missing. Coolant gone, freeze plug blew out somewhere during the drive. I got on the car about 2 miles from home, I can only guess that is when the freeze plug came out. There were no leaks prior to this drive. I am super pissed at the machine shop that put the short block together. I hope there is no damage to the new engine.

I am ordering a set of Milodon brass freeze plugs. Any issues with these? Anything brand better to use?

For sealant , what is the best to use on freeze plugs?

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Loctite #540 is the best, but it's expensive. My second choice is Permatex. #1. Just don't use silicone. The Milodon hardware is as good as any you'll find. Brass is better than steel.
 
I've never used anything by aviation gasket sealer or permatex #1 and have never had or seen one blow out.
 
Brass plugs are more prone to popping out because they aren't a strong as steel plugs... Brass is nice cause it doesn't rust but they are far more prone to popping out....
 
Brass plugs are more prone to popping out because they aren't a strong as steel plugs... Brass is nice cause it doesn't rust but they are far more prone to popping out....
I blew a right rear freeze plug on my 9 second license pass.Car rotated left and I tagged the wall.Went over the stripe sideways and still went 10.80 @ 87 MPH.
You are a lucky guy !!

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That buffed out nicely!
Glad you weren't hurt!
Right?
 
At least it's one of the "easy" ones to replace.

I don't normally use any type of sealant but If I feel I must, I'd consider copper coat.

Smaller molecules to get in the tight spaces and less to ooze back out.

Brass also helps with sealing because it's softer metal and conforms to the steel of the block better. Especially after a heat cycle.

At least the thinner style "deep" brass.
 
I had a 340 motor once after a rebuild it would not keep a CORE plug in the back of the block no matter what. So I installed a new steel plug again and had a welder friend put a little weld on it. no more issues. Morrel of the story never say never.
 
Core plugs shouldn't "fall out". Rust out ,yes. Cylinder pressure in the coolant system, possibly. Either the block hole is damaged or the plug wasn't installed correctly. The lip of the plug should be below the chamfer of the block hole. it needs to be square in the hole. Sealer may help weepage due to pitting, but it wont hold it in.
Doug
 
Drips of water on the garage floor after I parked the car. This is on my fresh 505 engine. The short block was assembled at the machine shop. The engine is fantastic by the way. Pulls like a freight train! I have only put about about 40 miles on it so far before this.

So, a freeze plug on the passenger side is missing. Coolant gone, freeze plug blew out somewhere during the drive. I got on the car about 2 miles from home, I can only guess that is when the freeze plug came out. There were no leaks prior to this drive. I am super pissed at the machine shop that put the short block together. I hope there is no damage to the new engine.

I am ordering a set of Milodon brass freeze plugs. Any issues with these? Anything brand better to use?

For sealant , what is the best to use on freeze plugs?

View attachment 982219
Do brass plugs for sure.
 
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