Looks like amp meter is the next oil thread here..
They are effectively the same gauge, just different face plates. The operation is the same no matter which one you use....in case anyone gets stuck for one of the other.
I’ll never understand where this kind of misinformation comes from. If you want to understand this charging system as originally designed, read some of the numerous threads here that contain the facts.
Yes, I know and said that earlier... (*I Think* could have been another thread.) On my A bodies, and some other cars, it is located behind the power booster or just to the left near the bulk head. I guess it depends on year to year, model to model.
Oh! It can happen, I have no doubt, I just never met anyone that actually had a fire due to a bad amp meter. But everybody seems to know someone.... or at least someone’s second wife’s third removed adopted Cousin.
This I don’t understand. Sarcasm?
So if you have a battery failure or an alternator failure, then full system load is running through the Ammeter? I’m no sparky, but assuming you leave it as factory wired, you’ll be fine, but once you add anything on, you’re risking potential disaster. If you add an aftermarket ignition system and run it off the battery, it’s passing more charging load back through the ammeter.
Well aware and it’s obvious that I accept full responsibility for all aspects of my ride. As you can see, I’m well past worrying about ammeters as mine is gone! However, these cars get modified and also driven by people that don’t know anything about electrical let alone where to even find the ammeter on the dashboard so if that alternator fails, it might get driven until the battery is dead before it gets looked at... the potential is there and if you plan on modifying these cars extensively, the first thing to do is get rid of the stock wiring arrangement.
Every MSD system instructions, as well as every EFI system instruct you to run primary power and ground direct to the battery.
