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Stainless trim buffer recommendations?

hunt2elk

hunt2elk

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This is off-topic advice but I have to share. Be extremely careful that the buffing wheel does not catch the edge of the trim and pull it while in your hands. I almost lost a finger on my right hand when I was polishing a pair of headlight rings.
 
The Eastwood kit and buffer looks pretty good. You have enough material there to do several cars. I have a similar buffer from Northern Tool but has smaller wheel size. I would go for it.

Never any issues with fingers but it will catch the trim and bend it up or send it into the arbor. You just have to watch the edges. Doing your own trim is very satisfying and you’ll make up the $300 real quick.
 
I bought this one sept '17 and have done two cars so far. https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-BF6...e=UTF8&qid=1546006671&sr=8-53&keywords=buffer
It does what its supposed to do. I purchased a couple "better" wheels and the compound bricks on amazon as well. Hard to beat their pricing. I like to hold on to my hard earned dollars. Like they said above, be mindful of wheel direction and edges. And if the heat isn't enough to make you put gloves on, reference the "almost lost a finger". Oh, and eye protection too.
 
I agree. hang on to what you are working on very tight. I have had the trim go flying when the wheel caught an edge. Gloves are a must and face or eye protection. I also agree it is very satisfying to do your own work and see it shine when done.
 
Spend the money, get a Baldor and don't look back. Mine is a 1.5HP model and it generates 3500RPM. You need some speed to do stainless. A variable control would be nice if you are just starting out so you can get a feel for the work. And yes, be careful, you need your head in the game when you are buffing or bad things will happen. Wear a respirator as the silicate will do nasty things to your respiratory system. Have fun!
 
I am happy with my harbor freight buffer but I bought real wheels and compound from the local auto paint supply store.
 
Yes sir...have had alot of stainless ripped out of my hands by catching edges. How you learn. Those super ultra fine wire wheels on a fixed buffer get you to a good starting point. Grab some 1,500-3000, (depending on scratch depth), grit sandpaper after that and a bucket of water and wet sand it into perfection. Water keeps sandpaper clean. Finish it off with Mothers wheel polish, you will be amazed. IMHO. Of course, my fingers have taken a licking over the years. I enjoy the work while watching an old school western!
 
I have a 3/4hp Baldor and it will make a pretzel out of anything you want. LOL Can't imagine what a 1.5hp will do.

baldor.JPG
 
It will hurt you badly if you don't watch what your doing. I had a side trim spear from a 55 Chevy catch an edge and literally stuck in the concrete wall behind me. A heavy leather apron is recommended if you get serious about this job. Don't ask me how I know....
 
When it pulled the headlight ring out of my hand it sliced like a knife. I drove myself to the ER and thought for sure my finger was going to be a memory. I was lucky (physically and financially). I only paid around $1500 for the "repair" and it took a couple months to heal completely. When I started working in the shop again I bought new headlight rings for the customer car... for less than 20 bucks. Always pay attention when using a buffer.
 
My buffer can be stopped by hand if needed. I didn’t want anything too powerful and I’ve buffed a **** load of trim and grilles with it. For me, safety was first and time second.
 
5.7 hemi said:
My buffer can be stopped by hand if needed. I didn’t want anything too powerful and I’ve buffed a **** load of trim and grilles with it. For me, safety was first and time second.
Click to expand...
Exactly why I like my harbor freight unit.
 
Ditto on everybody's safety tips. Also, if you are doing it for the first time, get some old trim to practice on. Trust me, been there.
 
Just a tip from lots if time doing show quality trim on 100k+ cars. Know when to quit. Perfection is truly the enemy of good in this work. It is easy to ruin a piece of trim by trying to make it perfect. Not difficult to burn stainless or make it so hot that the nickle melts and reveals pits. I buff barehanded because of this. Not the smartest thing to do but gives a feel for what the buffer is doing. Second, do as much restoration BEFORE you even turn on the buffer! You can actually get trim decent with sand paper up to 5000 grit. But if you want trim that looks like chrome then a 3 step buffing process is needed. Starting with emory compound to remove sanding scratches, stainless compound to remove emory marks, and finishing with white compound color buff on a floppy wheel. A typical piece of stainless can take 3-4 hours from dent and pit removal to final color buff. I did a 55 Chevy that took close to 500 hours of stainless restoration, including the blocking of the trim so it did not have a single imperfection or ripple when viewed under the lights. Only you can decide how much time it is worth to make the trim flawless. Have fun!
 
If just starting out you might consider taping the smaller pieces to a 1x2. That will prevent any damage to you or the trim.
Just a suggestion. I have done hundreds of pieces with my harbor freight buffer and like has been said before, I like being able to stall the buffer. It helps from burning to stainless
 
Mine is a 6 inch 3450rpm. I can grab it and stall it if need be.
 
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