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Bypass amp gauge ?

68383GTS

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What is the best way to bypass the factory amp gauge on a 1969 with a Talley dash. I upgraded to a 100 amp alternator.I know it is common for factory amp gauge wire to burn up. I really do not want to pull out the gauge cluster.Can I dissconnet the wire off the post of my alternator. Then run a new 8 or 10 gauge wire from the alternator straight to the battery? Maybe hook a aftermarket volt gauge in between? Or do I need a wire from a different source?
 
Come on! NOT AGAIN THIS LIE

just make a quick search on recent pages and learnt about the ammeter system and what it really means the amperage requirements for the car and how to handle correctly!
 
Come on! NOT AGAIN THIS LIE

just make a quick search on recent pages and learnt about the ammeter system and what it really means the amperage requirements for the car and how to handle correctly!


I decided to make it easy for you ( decided to quote myself instead edit my post LOL )

They were all on the 1 and 2 pages

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/bypass-the-ammeter-1969-a12.198344/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...d-“ticking-time-bomb”-factory-ammeter.177831/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/poll-about-ammeter-reading.198930/

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/dissection-and-study-of-a-mopar-ammeter.199179/

Just take your time to learn the true!

After that, take your own decision, but based on what really means the ammeter and the loads balance. And knowing you can keep still SAFE the ammeter even with a 1000 amperes alternator, because a battery won't suck more from its discharged status ( which is just what the ammeter reads: Battery loads ) just because the alternator is able to source x10 more.

Amperes can't be pushed in!
 
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Reason I ask is because I have had the amp wire burn up on other cars. If I remember right I disconnected the wires from the amp gauge and connected them together. Replacing the wire through the bulkhead with a heavier wire.Just wanted to know if there is a better way of doing this. Or if I can do it without pulling the gauge cluster. My amp gauge no longer works right anyway.
 
..and we're just pointing out there is about 10 threads going on this already and it's not the amp meter that burns your car down, or it's wires for that matter. The meter is just telling you that something else has failed, like my SBird did this week breaking off the blue wire to the electronic voltage regulator making it peg full output off the alternator and charging 40 amps... outputting almost 18 volts.
 
Reason I ask is because I have had the amp wire burn up on other cars.

And I'm telling you a 100 amps alt won't burnt your wiring or ammeter ( will in fact protect the ammeter ). Just negligence &/or unknownledgement makes that. Aside a bit of underrated factory setup ( terminals and alt output )

You can make it work propperly... just if you care of course. If you don't, there is nothing to do then.

Read the referred threads.
 
Some things arent EXACTLY clear for all...if I run my 8 & 10G wires from the alt to the ammeter and to the starter relay , what gauge fusible link should be used to the starter relay? Can I re-use the original or go down (fatter) one size because of the added larger wires?
 
Normaly the fuse link must be 2 sizes less than the wire where is linked.

so 10 wire will use 14 gauge fuse link
 
Normaly the fuse link must be 2 sizes less than the wire where is linked.

so 10 wire will use 14 gauge fuse link
But from the amp gauge to the splice and on to ignition switch, headlights, ect. the wires have not been changed, i would leave the original size fusable link to protect the rest of the wiring.
 
But from the amp gauge to the splice and on to ignition switch, headlights, ect. the wires have not been changed, i would leave the original size fusable link to protect the rest of the wiring.

Yeap that could be true IF the battery recharging process doesn’t change but having a better alt, the batt will have a source able to source it better At lower speed so it COULD get more amps going throught, althought for less time. The bigger fuse link will hold better the recharge load.

Plus, if adding accesories ( correctly sourced from alt ), the fuse link will hold that load with engine off.

is just one step up on fuse link anyway, from the stock 16
 
Yeap that could be true IF the battery recharging process doesn’t change but having a better alt, the batt will have a source able to source it better At lower speed so it COULD get more amps going throught, althought for less time. The bigger fuse link will hold better the recharge load.

Plus, if adding accesories ( correctly sourced from alt ), the fuse link will hold that load with engine off.

is just one step up on fuse link anyway, from the stock 16
Agree with the battery charging part, just thinking if there was a short somewhere else, like ignition switch for example.
 
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