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Just got my belvedere of the scales

kjalltrac

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:53 PM
Joined
Dec 8, 2014
Messages
314
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Location
Sweden Jonkoping
Fully stock body and interior
440 with aluminum heads
727 and 8 3/4 rear
Steelies with 26" slicks

IMG_20200805_161458.jpg IMG_20200805_160904.jpg
 
Sorry to hijack this thread, but there is a swedish word I can't find the meaning of. Manoverspanning, which is written on my Kopings milling machine. It has two dots over the o and the second a. Online Swedish-English dictionaries don't help.
 
Sorry to hijack this thread, but there is a swedish word I can't find the meaning of. Manoverspanning, which is written on my Kopings milling machine. It has two dots over the o and the second a. Online Swedish-English dictionaries don't help.
Operation voltage
 
Why is the right front so heavy and the right rear so light? I would expect the front and rear corners to be closer to each other than what you are seeing.
 
Why is the right front so heavy and the right rear so light? I would expect the front and rear corners to be closer to each other than what you are seeing.

I would want it just the opposite corner wise for drag racing.....
 
Why is the right front so heavy and the right rear so light? I would expect the front and rear corners to be closer to each other than what you are seeing.
I would want it just the opposite corner wise for drag racing.....

He has said in another thread that he cranked up the torsion bar to try to compensate for a badly sagging right ss spring.
 
Interesting. I used to air up my passenger side air shock for my sagged spring. It felt like it kind of worked?

On subject, the weight seems good! I'd like to put my car on a diet without stripping it down. Still haven't decided where I'd get creative.
 
Cranking up the left torsion bar will add weight to the right rear. However with S/S springs the right should be stiffer than the left. Do you have the right and left on the wrong sides?
Doug
 
Cranking up the left torsion bar will add weight to the right rear. However with S/S springs the right should be stiffer than the left. Do you have the right and left on the wrong sides?
Doug
They are installed at the correct location, trust me, I've checked several times :)
Looks like the rear segment of the right main leaf is almost flat, no curv to it.
Like I posted earlier, the right main leaf is thinner than the left. Anyone who can measure the thickness of the main leafs, left and right?
 
Are they the 3400lb springs? They always seemed kind of saggy. 002/003 were better. A spring shop can add camber (rearch) to the spring.
Doug
 
They are installed at the correct location, trust me, I've checked several times :)
Looks like the rear segment of the right main leaf is almost flat, no curv to it.
Like I posted earlier, the right main leaf is thinner than the left. Anyone who can measure the thickness of the main leafs, left and right?

I'll try to make this short, but also make sense...

I just put on a brand new set of 3800 lb. springs recently, the old ones sagged. The main leaf of my old passenger side was bent into an S-shape. The rearmost segment, where there is no more support from the leaf spring stack...Actually had a slight arch the opposite direction.

Lowered the car to the ground on the new springs, main leaf had similar behavior again (although not as bad). My driver side leaf pack has more support closer to the rear spring eye.

I'm spitballin' here, but I think the thickness difference may have been intentional to keep the initial spring rate down.

I have heavier rated leafs, but I can still measure the thickness of each side if you wish?
 
For reference only. If i replace my street 15x6 steelies with 235/60x15 t/a radials, and 15x8 steelies with 255/70x15 t/a's, with 15x3 autodrag centerlines with 165x15 street tires ( not race style front runners) and 15x8 1/2 autodrags with 10.5x28 slicks, my car gets over a hundred pounds lighter.
If i take off my mandrel bent 3.5" to-the-bumper exhaust system, including Giant flowmasters, and replace with my hooker aeroflows right off the headers, i save almost 75 lbs.
 
For reference only. If i replace my street 15x6 steelies with 235/60x15 t/a radials, and 15x8 steelies with 255/70x15 t/a's, with 15x3 autodrag centerlines with 165x15 street tires ( not race style front runners) and 15x8 1/2 autodrags with 10.5x28 slicks, my car gets over a hundred pounds lighter.
If i take off my mandrel bent 3.5" to-the-bumper exhaust system, including Giant flowmasters, and replace with my hooker aeroflows right off the headers, i save almost 75 lbs.
Don't get me started guys. LOL.
 
I'll try to make this short, but also make sense...

I just put on a brand new set of 3800 lb. springs recently, the old ones sagged. The main leaf of my old passenger side was bent into an S-shape. The rearmost segment, where there is no more support from the leaf spring stack...Actually had a slight arch the opposite direction.

Lowered the car to the ground on the new springs, main leaf had similar behavior again (although not as bad). My driver side leaf pack has more support closer to the rear spring eye.

I'm spitballin' here, but I think the thickness difference may have been intentional to keep the initial spring rate down.

I have heavier rated leafs, but I can still measure the thickness of each side if you wish?
Thanks , would be interesting knowing what thickness yours are
 
A friend of mine owns a dairy farm and they have a calibrated truck scale. When I’m there I drive whatever vehicle up on it (then subtract drivers and add for partial tank to get proper curb weight). My ‘64 Sport Fury was 3620 last summer. I used to go to the recycling place back in the 80’s to do the same. My ‘69 roadrunner was 3620 (with a 440). ‘69 sixpak bee with no heater or radio was 3490.
 
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