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main studs

JACK FOSHEE

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taylor az
am building my first stroker big block using 400 block with 415 crank. am wondering if worth effort to in stall aluminum caps and studs. bracket motor 6800-7000 rpm limit. 13-1 compression
 
I would use studs. I did on my 400/452 motors in the '80's and I'd sure think seriously aluminum caps (maybe good steel) I'd consider a girdle too. Think I should have used a girdle on my 512. Get a good quality crank.
 
Oh yea! What he said! ^^^^^^

It may seem like overkill and an expense not really worthy until you have a problem. Then the expense is cheap.
 
I've said it before, I'll say it again. 7,000 RPM is hard on BB Mopar's. The blocks were not really designed for high power & high RPM. If you plan on that, quality crank is required, lightest pistons for your combination, top quality rods, probably a girdle. Today's stroker parts should be a lot more reliable than stuff I had "back in the day". A 500" stroker will do just fine at 6500.
 
I'm on the girdle "train" too. That will include studs so that is covered. Second the light weight piston/rod combo! It will rev like a banshee with light weight rotating components!
Mike
 
if you do go the studs route
different caps or not,
have it 'line honed' with the studs installed
or it can distort the main bearing bores, cause other issues

if you do both it's a no brainer
so is the girdle
 
studs and a girdle is just plain old good insurance! Ruffcut
 
am building my first stroker big block using 400 block with 415 crank. am wondering if worth effort to in stall aluminum caps and studs. bracket motor 6800-7000 rpm limit. 13-1 compression
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I went that route with an RB block. 505 12.8 CR. Studs, aluminum main caps and stud girdle. Cross the stripe at 6700 RPM. Not sure you’d need it for a 400 block though.
 
That is the great thing about a HEMI. 4 Bolt Mains. My HEMI has a Moldex Crank, Bill Mitchell (BME) Forged Aluminum Funny Car Rods, Landy Investment Grade Rocker Arms, Titanium Valves and the Best Manley Valve springs you can buy....I spin it to 8000 RPM (with a 4.5x 4.5 572) and don't worry about a thing.
Sorry for going off the subject here but I am kinda bored with the Civid thing going on and just had to type in something....hope you understand.
 
That is the great thing about a HEMI. 4 Bolt Mains. My HEMI has a Moldex Crank, Bill Mitchell (BME) Forged Aluminum Funny Car Rods, Landy Investment Grade Rocker Arms, Titanium Valves and the Best Manley Valve springs you can buy....I spin it close to 8000 RPM (with a 4.5x 4.5 572) and don't worry about a thing.
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Soon to be mine!
 
thanks for all the info; billet aluminum caps and studs with girdle is what will happen, all for 63 polara.
 
The expense will long be forgotten and the pain of payment will disappear when all is said and done a long time from now. Things like this, when not done, cost way more than if it had been done to start with.

I say this a lot, “A little overkill goes a long way in happiness!”
 
On my 400, 4.15" stroke, 12.4:1 compression, Edelbrock Victor MW headed, 0.726" lift cam engine, I used the BCR kit with aluminum caps, 1/2 thick girdle, and all the studs, bolts, nuts and such. Also 1/2 internal oil pickup. Runs nice and smooth at 7,000 RPM.
 
thanks for all the info; billet aluminum caps and studs with girdle is what will happen, all for 63 polara.

The added cost of the parts & machine work now, will be a lot less than the cost of a new engine when you exceed the limits of it's design capabilities.
The better parts are a sound decision.
 
am building my first stroker big block using 400 block with 415 crank. am wondering if worth effort to in stall aluminum caps and studs.
no time to skimp now, the expense overall in the big picture is really not that much and good insurance, i just did all that except i went steel main caps with studs, and waiting to install 1/4" girdle. scat crank and rods/2000 bolts, no place to skimp either on the rod bolts. had it all professionally assembled at s&s machine, hayward. money well spent. your heads and cam will determine how much xtra "strenght" u will need down below.
002.JPG
 
no time to skimp now, the expense overall in the big picture is really not that much and good insurance, i just did all that except i went steel main caps with studs, and waiting to install 1/4" girdle. scat crank and rods/2000 bolts, no place to skimp either on the rod bolts. had it all professionally assembled at s&s machine, hayward. money well spent. your heads and cam will determine how much xtra "strenght" u will need down below.View attachment 994571
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I went with aluminum caps. My thought on that was with regard to the main web crack concern and that the aluminum caps would cushion more.
 
When I tore my 10.60 motor down it showed evidence of cap walk. Stock stroke 440 with Hemi rods and light weight ash can Jahns pistons, stock caps and bolts. It saw 7300 through the traps every pass. Yup, I'd go with what's being recommended here....
 
Found a picture of the BCR aluminum caps and girdle on the engine.

BCRcapsSmall.jpg
 
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