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Sub-Frame connectors

STREETREBEL

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Is there a specific manufacturer of sub frame connectors for a 67 Belvedere?
Thanks.
 
I used the Mopar Performance ones from Mancini
The car is noticeably stiffer and you can tell when you jack the car up to work under it
 
I always wondered if the bolt-in ones actually did any good?
 
The US Car Tool ones are hit and miss. You would think that all floor pans are the same but my US Car Tool units don't fit worth a damn with gaps anywhere from a 1/2 to 3/4 inch. If I were doing it again I'd just use square or rectangular tubing
 
I always wondered if the bolt-in ones actually did any good?

I like the difference in my car
Its stiff enough that I can lift both front tires with the jack from one side
The car launches hard and straight and the tire patterns are very similar
I was very happy with the results for the money spent
 
I always wondered if the bolt-in ones actually did any good?

Ed. Yes they do, but a small disclaimer............... After the bolt in on my comp engineering ones I did weld each end solid to the car cross member/front stubs and rear stubs.
No welds to the floor. { to lazy to pull seats , carpet and pad }
door gaps stay the same when parked on uneven ground, and when I mash it from a standing start the old suregrip 67 used to drift right not long after light up , now she still cooks the rubber but goes straight a little longer then drifts right. testing preformed on the same road. :thumbsup: I have a front sway bar and coil over rear shocks, I do think the connectors did tighten it up corner wise also.
I would not hesitate to install them again.
 
The US Car Tool ones are hit and miss. You would think that all floor pans are the same but my US Car Tool units don't fit worth a damn with gaps anywhere from a 1/2 to 3/4 inch. If I were doing it again I'd just use square or rectangular tubing

Interesting point, I suspect many floor pans have flexed and deformed over the years. We all know that the stock unibody does twist & change shape when subjected to use or abuse. I don't have experience with either of these products, mine have been 2x3 11 gage through the floor pan & welded. Extremely stout and stiff, but more difficult & time consuming.
 
I put the U.S. Cartool frame ties in and had to do about an hour's worth of fitting before
I could weld them in. A small price to pay for a great fit and a nice stiff hookup (according to
everyone here). I have no Idea why Momma Mopar never did this from the factory!
 
The US Car Tool ones are hit and miss. You would think that all floor pans are the same but my US Car Tool units don't fit worth a damn with gaps anywhere from a 1/2 to 3/4 inch. If I were doing it again I'd just use square or rectangular tubing

I'm very happy with my US Cartools frame connectors - you might have to do a little work to fix the gaps, but it's not that hard, and the result it it looks like factory when you're done.

The weld in type should greatly out perform the bolt in type - think of the contact points and the torque boxes created with weld in and it makes sense.

I have a convertible, so the extra support and added benefit of the weld in type were a huge advantage - and my doors close so much nicer now
 
My US Car and Tool frame connectors are welded in, look and fit great.
 
USCartool. Looks factory to the non Mopar Eye. Transformed the ride.
 
DSCF8629.JPG
DSCF8623.JPG
U.S.Cartool. That's what I'm talkin about!
 
Bought a used bolt in set epoxy painted them in black. One improvement I made was to the rear mounts the bold holes were dimpled in towards the rear frame box so I straightened the holes and took five sixteenth (?) bar metal drilled two holes in each so when the stiffeners are mounted the bolts will less likely dimple the stiffener as will the box. I'm going to paint the bottom of the floors first before installation. This summer has been super busy with house and yard projects with little time to work on the car.
 
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