Window channel woes
- Thread starter Dennis H
- Start date
Easy to find, a bitch to install.
All the major Mopar supply houses should carry them. https://dantesparts.com/c-1389223-o...-gaskets-cat-whiskers-side-window-sweeps.html
All the major Mopar supply houses should carry them. https://dantesparts.com/c-1389223-o...-gaskets-cat-whiskers-side-window-sweeps.html
Having an old vert, spent a lot of time adjusting the friggin glass to align - inward, outward, fore-aft, including the vent window alignment - on my car (not sure on yours) that's two bolts accessed from under the door. Yeah - panels off and if those bolts are stuck, be patient so as not to strip 'em out. Happened to me on one bolt so the PIA to drill it out and resize the hole for new bolt working on my back. Spray da chit out of those from inside and leave em sit for a few hours if any hint of no-go.
- Local time
- 11:30 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 19,372
- Reaction score
- 63,265
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
That's not your "Whiskers" Dennis, that'd be your vent pillar track mylar falling apart. Lots of threads about it and no source of good OEM mylars anymore. You'll have to buy the repops and trim their outer lip off of to make them work okay... and use your old slider clips, the new ones are moulded wrong. Door panel off, window has to come out. Easiest on the bench with the complete vent window frame as an assembly, but you can pull the door glass out by removing the rubber stop block, up stop removed and window crank regulator slipped out of the track.
And when I put in the new whiskers, I did this with the glass out - well had car torn apart anyway. Found some of the damn retainer clips for those new ones wouldn't set right so was good to have the glass out to get better access to set them in place.
If i"m seeing the picture correctly, you need to replace the felt inside the vent window frame. I don't think that can be done on the car so the frame has to come out; after removing the door glass and regulator.
On my Coronet the doors were gutted during the resto so I was able to replace all the window felts with the door off the car and the vent frame on the bench. If you decide to move forward, might as well replace the door felts too since the glass will be out.
If I remember, you also used to have a rattle coming from inside the door. It was most likely from where the vent frame attaches at the very bottom of the door. If you never fixed it, this would be the time.
I've worked on the vent frame for the Dart too so if you decide to tackle this yourself I'd come down and help out.
On my Coronet the doors were gutted during the resto so I was able to replace all the window felts with the door off the car and the vent frame on the bench. If you decide to move forward, might as well replace the door felts too since the glass will be out.
If I remember, you also used to have a rattle coming from inside the door. It was most likely from where the vent frame attaches at the very bottom of the door. If you never fixed it, this would be the time.
I've worked on the vent frame for the Dart too so if you decide to tackle this yourself I'd come down and help out.
I remember the rebop slider clips not working and having to reuse the OEM's. I also remember the rebop mylar stuff being chintzy.
Dennis,
Here's where I got mine: https://www.restorationspecialties.com/
Put CoronetDarter to work...lol.
Here's where I got mine: https://www.restorationspecialties.com/
Put CoronetDarter to work...lol.
themechanic
Oklahoma is OK
- Local time
- 10:30 PM
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2012
- Messages
- 16,526
- Reaction score
- 19,510
- Location
- Moore, Oklahoma
FYI, the Mylar ones are a whole lot less brittle than the plastic ones they sell nowadays.
Now is the time to replace any leaking vent window rubber seals and any worn out window fuzzies, Cat Whiskers, or whatever you want to call them, since the window has to come out.
There are lots of threads with how tos and photos on here and other B body sites. As well as how to re-adjust the window when you're done.
Now is the time to replace any leaking vent window rubber seals and any worn out window fuzzies, Cat Whiskers, or whatever you want to call them, since the window has to come out.
There are lots of threads with how tos and photos on here and other B body sites. As well as how to re-adjust the window when you're done.
- Local time
- 11:30 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 19,372
- Reaction score
- 63,265
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
Oh, the OEM's are still fragile and easy to peel the felt from, make sure you file the track ends to a nice rounded chamfer and make sure there are no kicks in the track. Thankfully the, once available, OEM replacements had some extra length to them! The "how to" is in my restoration thread Dennis.
Around here onward... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ge-super-bee-coupe-restoration.145777/page-38
Around here onward... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...ge-super-bee-coupe-restoration.145777/page-38
restorationpartsandmaterials.com is a site sponsor and Richard, @69bfan is a really great guy to deal with. I'm pretty sure he has the repro's, that's about all there is available out there.
MoparDanMan
Well-Known Member
I was looking for the same thing. I may have found it at Classic Industries.
- Local time
- 11:30 PM
- Joined
- Jan 29, 2018
- Messages
- 19,372
- Reaction score
- 63,265
- Location
- Midland Ontario, Canada
If you "found" them at Classic Industries then they are reproductions from who knows where... about the only good repros out there come from Detroit Muscle Technologies and even those will need trimming and your extreme patience to make work correctly.
MoparDanMan
Well-Known Member
I'll look at theirs, thank you. I also found them at AMD
Mike67
Well-Known Member
Bought mine for the 67 from Detroit Muscle.
Pretty good product, pita as mine are attached to the glass..
Pretty good product, pita as mine are attached to the glass..
Similar threads
