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grease on intake surfaces

Geri

Geri

Deceased, But not forgotton
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I seen a posting last week of using white grease instead of gaskets- seems that would be hard to seal correctly. anyway the correct white grease is white lithium grease, use on both sides of the gasket and previously stated manifold on and off with no issues, it is widely used on blown alcohol or nitro cars for the manifold to cylinder heads sealing-
I used same intake gaskets on my blown fuel 392 cackle car from 2011 -2018, it works.
 
It would seem that it *could* work under exactly the right circumstances. I wouldn’t expect it to work for too long either as the grease dissolves. Certainly wouldn’t recommend that to anyone.
 
On a 440?! I guess it's just me, but can't see a need to R&R intake that often? Hmmmm...
As said, grease eventually melts, just goes away.
(Asking for a friend)
 
I used grease to "prep" some of the paper style gaskets to soften them instead of sealers.
 
The race cars use grease so they can reuse the gaskets without tearing them or have them stick and need a scraper. Time and money savings. The engine runs for what 2-3 minutes total, then another tear down.
 
R413 said:
The race cars use grease so they can reuse the gaskets without tearing them or have them stick and need a scraper. Time and money savings. The engine runs for what 2-3 minutes total, then another tear down.
Click to expand...
Mine went many more(100's of runs) than that, but they do come apart much easier.
 
Nate S said:
It would seem that it *could* work under exactly the right circumstances. I wouldn’t expect it to work for too long either as the grease dissolves. Certainly wouldn’t recommend that to anyone.
Click to expand...
the grease (white lithium grease) never turned to liquid and ran off the surface, I had the blower manifold off many times and still had the new spares I bought in 2010 hanging in the trailer. the point is-use white lithium grease and the gaskets, no issues. I put lot of pressure in the manifold/port with 28% over drive on a 6:71 nitro blower.
 
Geri said:
the grease (white lithium grease) never turned to liquid and ran off the surface, I had the blower manifold off many times and still had the new spares I bought in 2010 hanging in the trailer. the point is-use white lithium grease and the gaskets, no issues. I put lot of pressure in the manifold/port with 28% over drive on a 6:71 nitro blower.
Click to expand...

Note that I stated "the circumstances". In yours it clearly worked fine. In a 4 hour drive to a show on a 90° day with open heat risers and with surfaces that may not be either quite flat or quite parallel the answer might be different. Also a valid question: would it have worked fine with nothing at all?
 
Nate S said:
Note that I stated "the circumstances". In yours it clearly worked fine. In a 4 hour drive to a show on a 90° day with open heat risers and with surfaces that may not be either quite flat or quite parallel the answer might be different. Also a valid question: would it have worked fine with nothing at all?
Click to expand...
Gaskets on clean surfaces will work fine, the point being for manifolds that are removed frequently the lithium grease adds to the effective sealing of the components-I don't know about "other" white greases- perhaps they do not react to heat and sealing as the lithium. I do know that virtually ever nostalgia fuel racer uses the lithium grease. I used the lithium on a race/street engine in my Willys- a blown injected 426 hemi with 15% overdrive street engine, when disassembled after 3 years the manifold came off easily the gaskets reusable. I will do is use it on my port injection on my 472,and report back on its effectiveness. my agenda here is to say-if one uses grease on the gaskets it should be lithium. I can't imagine using no gasket at all, but?
thank you for your input.
 
The OP is saying use white grease WITHOUT gaskets.
I use it on one side of the gaskets on the oil pan and valve covers on my moorsickles. The gasket sticks to the pan/valve cover and not the engine.
 
Slap Stick said:
The OP is saying use white grease WITHOUT gaskets.
I use it on one side of the gaskets on the oil pan and valve covers on my moorsickles. The gasket sticks to the pan/valve cover and not the engine.
Click to expand...
 
do what you want- I just said -if you use a grease on mating surfaces the best is the white lithium. if we are talking about V-8 engines-I've never seen or heard of assembly with no gasket where one is intended to be. the surfaces do not match unless you mill the heads to close the gap between head and intake manifold. perhaps you are talking about a different engine other than a V type?
 
Used this on my Fel Pro paper gaskets on my intake valley pan

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10005-Tacky-Grease/dp/B000ARPVO8

Gasket adhesive to the valley pan itself , then grease on the aluminum side of paper for intake surfaces

Was changing intakes this summer , and I didn’t want to keep replacing the valley pan gaskets on my Edelbrock E Street heads and Different intakes

Worked awesome

Sure saved a lot of clean up and time
 
Nate S said:
Note that I stated "the circumstances". In yours it clearly worked fine. In a 4 hour drive to a show on a 90° day with open heat risers and with surfaces that may not be either quite flat or quite parallel the answer might be different. Also a valid question: would it have worked fine with nothing at all?
Click to expand...
yes, of course it would work with nothing at all(on the gaskets) but that means they needreplacement each time the manifold is removed,which is often. as far as heat- the supercharged nitro burning engine (at 85%) makes enough heat to stop exhaust valves in the guide in 2 minutes if not given the right clearance. a nitro engine exhaust valve needs .004 to ensures no galling or locking in the guide.
I'll repeat -my only suggestion was to say- IF grease is used- use white lithium grease. from there I don't care if anyone wants to put any gaskets in, that is their choice.
 
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